How to get better at wingshooting

Lots of good advice in this thread. I got back into pheasant hunting a few years ago when I brought home a Springer to be my fishing buddy. Found out she could hunt, and lived for it. So, hunt I did...and I missed way more birds than I shot the first couple seasons back. Honestly, I'm not sure why my dogs would even look at me sometimes! In the spring of 2022, Dad and I both bought automatic clay throwers. I patterned my guns, practiced mounting and swinging an unloaded gun in front of the bathroom mirror, and I shot a TON of clays. Last year I killed way more birds than I missed. I still missed a layup now and again, but my shooting was greatly improved. Best of luck on your journey!
 
captainshotgun said:
What size steel were you using? I would use nothing smaller than #3. I believe 2’s are better. I dont use steel unless I left my hevi-shot at home. In my o/u I use cyl or even a spreader tube in the first barrel & mod or even im in the second. I dont usually have to use the second barrel. I shoot for the red eye patch if I can see it. If that bird makes eye contact with me, I will smash it! Do you maybe need glasses?
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I use #2 shot in steel. Yep already got glasses and can see great with them. Just a bad shot!
 
Try putting a small flashlight in the end of the barrel in an unloaded gun. Pick a target on the far wall or ceiling, pull up and see what you are aiming at. You can follow the joint lines between the wall and the ceiling to practice swinging left to right and right to left. I’ve found this to be very helpful. Helps develop muscle memory. A small maglite flashlight works well in a 12 gauge.
 
Three things,
Practice
Practice
And more practice, at the gun range or with hand thrown targets it doesn’t matter.
 
A bit late to the party but a few words of advice Upland hunting or any hunting for that matter. Pattern your shotgun with the same type of ammo you shoot bird hunting. Ya, you can do it with what you shoot at the trap range but your more inclined to see better patterning from #7 1/2-8 shot than say #4-6 shot (more holes in pattern) Which you would be be more likely to use in the field. Using a pattern board take a 25 yard, 30 yard, 35 yard shot and compare them. This will be the only time you really want to aim with the bead at the center point of the paper. you may find holes in the one or more of the 4 corners of the pattern sheet. If this is the case, you may need to either tighten choke or if the pattern is too tight open the choke. this information will tell you how big an area you have with the pattern which allows you to put the pattern in front of or say on top of a rising pheasant.
On to the birds. On a rising bird from flush put the point of the gun on the head of the bird. Of course side to side shots you would want to pit the majority of the pattern in front of the bird. If you understand your pattern you’ll likely take more birds with less wounded escapees. Shooting trap can certainly help and the same point of aim applies. Just some thoughts. Go check YouTube for more info on patterning your gun.
 
Caleb Frank said:
Hi, I've been pheasant hunting a few year now and have been having a hard time hitting birds. I've been hunting Iowa and WI with my dad and seen alot of roosters but we can't hit them. And when I finally did hit one it was wounded and ran off. My dog is a English setter and doesn't retrieve. Just got a German wire hair pointer so hopefully she will retrieve. Is there anything I could do to get better at wingshooting other than shooting Clay pigons. My dad thinks we should get simi automatic shotgun. My dad shoots a O/U and I shoot a SxS. Would that help any or by the time you get to the 3rd shot are they out of range? My dad brought his simi auto shotgun to iowa and the extractor broke on the first day, so are simi autos worth it with the higher probability of malfunctions? It could help if multiple birds get up. But we would probably be better off shooting one and getting to it fast before it runs off. Also, hunting northern Iowa with steel shot. I shot 2 pheasants and shot their tails off, but they kept flying. Are the BB's bouncing off them or not penetrating enough? I read that a lung shot pheasant can fly for several hundred yards. I watched it as long as I could and it didn't go down. I was using fairly good steel shot, winchester xpert. Would something like prarie storm steel or blackcloud be better? Thank you for the advice!
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It seems you have a lot of questions on break open guns vs semi auto guns , loads, and steel load lethality. You will get great advise here but if you want PM me and I will be happy to get on a call with you to discuss all your questions. I got a little knowledge I could pass along.

Kick'em Up!
 
benelli-banger said:
Avoid steel shot if you can…lead is preferable…if legal…#5 is my choice…2 3/4” is fine…shoot where the bird is going to be, not where it is….good luck to you! Hang in there!
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Don't buy that expensive crap. Cheap Walmart lead.Dont pay those blue blood hunting places.Dont pay hunt period.
 
It's been my observation most people don't know how to fit a shotgun, mount their shotgun, or efficiently shoot. They were never taught, maybe they make a trip or two to a range and shoot a couple rounds of trap and head out to the field. I suggest you look for an experienced shooting instructor.

Shooting may look simple but in reality there is a lot going on and a good instructor will help break it down. You will get better with practice, but in reality you are probably working around bad habits rather than improving your skill.

Since hunting is not the same as trap shooting I would make sure I find an instructor that teaches shooting from a gun down starting position.

good luck.
 
Notwrking said:
It's been my observation most people don't know how to fit a shotgun, mount their shotgun, or efficiently shoot. They were never taught, maybe they make a trip or two to a range and shoot a couple rounds of trap and head out to the field.
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I think Notwrking has been observing me...or is describing me. I was never taught to shoot, mount a gun and for sure never how to fit a shotgun. Yet somehow I got things sorted-out with out help. This isn't that hard, you will get on to it following a few tips given here.
 
Caleb Frank said:
Hi, I've been pheasant hunting a few year now and have been having a hard time hitting birds. I've been hunting Iowa and WI with my dad and seen alot of roosters but we can't hit them. And when I finally did hit one it was wounded and ran off. My dog is a English setter and doesn't retrieve. Just got a German wire hair pointer so hopefully she will retrieve. Is there anything I could do to get better at wingshooting other than shooting Clay pigons. My dad thinks we should get simi automatic shotgun. My dad shoots a O/U and I shoot a SxS. Would that help any or by the time you get to the 3rd shot are they out of range? My dad brought his simi auto shotgun to iowa and the extractor broke on the first day, so are simi autos worth it with the higher probability of malfunctions? It could help if multiple birds get up. But we would probably be better off shooting one and getting to it fast before it runs off. Also, hunting northern Iowa with steel shot. I shot 2 pheasants and shot their tails off, but they kept flying. Are the BB's bouncing off them or not penetrating enough? I read that a lung shot pheasant can fly for several hundred yards. I watched it as long as I could and it didn't go down. I was using fairly good steel shot, winchester xpert. Would something like prarie storm steel or blackcloud be better? Thank you for the advice!
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Don't buy those expensive shells.Rip off. Any cheap Wal mart magnum.
 
Stay away from xpert, its the worst of the worst. If you have to shoot non tox, and don't want to shoot bismuth, find some hevi-steel or federal speed shok #2 in 3" 1 1/8 or 1 1/4. Put in a modified choke and go hit the patterning board (im sure theyll be fine but double check it doesnt look like a blunderbuss)

Aside from that, find a local trap range and go shoot a couple rounds every evening you can for 2 weeks before opener. Trap is perfect for learning the flushing motion of a pheasant and you will build TONS of confidence. Use 7.5 lead and a modified choke. It will be expensive when you are done, but oh so worth it in the long run. Dont bother with hand thrown unless you have a good electric thrower, it just wont be the practice shots you need. If you are having trouble at the range too, go to the clubhouse and ask if there is a veteran shooter around that could spot you for a round. Almost everyone will be willing to help you i bet, nobody likes to see someone struggle in this sport.

On your semi-auto question, i dont think ive ever had a good 3rd shot opportunity on a pheasant in my life. On a second flushing bird I have.
 
One answer to the original question, 15 years ago, I was reflecting. I had nice guns , a good truck devoted to bird hunting, reasonable trained bird dogs, and spent a lot to travel to nice public lands far away. I missed way to much!!!!
I went to a shooting school hosted by Gil Ash, and spent more money, very wise decision. To overcome my left eye dominance, and voodoo measures . He showed me my brain could overcome my faults, and I am a better shot now.I will never be a competitor, but I do understand the proper foot placement, stance, gun mount, eye focus, and stock fit. When I miss which is still too often, I know why. A serious shooting school can make a world of difference! Consider what you spend overall, it may not be that much money. Brian beliniski in traverse city Michigan is an excellent teacher too.
 
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Wow, all great advice. All that I can add is that when I started hunting I struggled and my Dad, who was a solid shooter, gave me two tips.

1. Pheasants are very slow birds so, when hunting over a dog, let the bird have at least a 3 count before you pull the trigger.
2. Always swing through the shot.

I am not saying that I am a great shot but adhering to those two tips have resulted in a lot of dead birds.
 
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