Gun didn't fire! I need solutions for lubrication.

Guys, thanks for all the great advise and recommendations. I am going home tonight and will check everything again. It is still apart and I want to watch the inner workings work again. I am a little concerned about pulling the pins apart. I am not that skilled or knowledgeable in how to put it all back together. But my thought is that now that I have cleaned it more thoroughly than I have any of my other O/U's I am of the opinion that any oil, wd-40, Mobil 1, or any other substance is nothing but an attractant to dirt and grime. Thanks for the help I plan to shoot it on Friday but will be bringing a back-up in case it fails on me.
 
goldenboy said:
Guys, thanks for all the great advise and recommendations. I am going home tonight and will check everything again. It is still apart and I want to watch the inner workings work again. I am a little concerned about pulling the pins apart. I am not that skilled or knowledgeable in how to put it all back together. But my thought is that now that I have cleaned it more thoroughly than I have any of my other O/U's I am of the opinion that any oil, wd-40, Mobil 1, or any other substance is nothing but an attractant to dirt and grime. Thanks for the help I plan to shoot it on Friday but will be bringing a back-up in case it fails on me.
Click to expand...

It's really not hard at all. Couple minutes to get them out. I think you need a certain size punch, can't remember which at the moment.
That and Q-tips.
If you don't put a lot of rounds thru the gun each year you wouldn't probably need to do it that often. I'll PM you a link that shows you how it's done.
 
I have been a big fan of Eezox. It works great for rust control as well on barrels, etc.
 
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Interesting study. That's a lot to digest. I did find one paragraph that was particularly interesting and one that should be applied regardless of what you use as lube.

Quote.

Excess lubricant acted like a glue that slowed or resisted parts from movement because of the surface tension and viscosity of the excess lube. As I removed more and more of the excess, I observed that less force was required to overcome static friction. In almost every case I found that removing all visible lubricant resulted in the lowest levels of friction between the two polished steel plates. What we have been told is correct, apply liberally to coat and then remove all excess to the point where you think you have removed too much and you will enjoy the least amount of friction. The side benefit to that dry level of lubrication is that it will not attract foreign contaminants that could get trapped in excess/wet lubrica
 
I seen that a couple years ago. Sence I have been using Frog Lube for the exterior, and the action it seems to do a good job. For the trigger mechanism I use the Hornady One Shot, because it can be sprayed on.
 
I have use CLP for years in my OU's. I soak every access point I can and then place the receiver in a position to let the cleaner run out, then wipe it dry. Do it twice at the end of each season and have had 0 problems.
 
I bought a large can of Breakfree CLP on Amazon, from advice on this site, and it works well. I've used it on some pretty cold late season hunts without fail.
 
CLP here as well. I spray heavily then brush then spray again and blow it off with high pressure. Then spray and wipe off with cotton cloth. Never had an issue.
 
I use CLP some, mostly for long storage. It is pretty sloppy, like WD 40 kinda. Puts too much lube in for normal use IMO. But for a safe stay, I always use it. Cleaning I do with Gun Scrubber. I blast out all cracks and crannies. Then I use Outers oil. It keeps my guns popping in the cold. It's been the best product by far for a normal oil that I have ever found. And I think I have tried them all.
I know rem oil is popular. But up here in MN, forget it. Rem oil sucks in the cold.
 
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PS, CLP break free is the choice for AR15 shooters. Semi autos. You run them wet. So you want that slop so to speak. It is ok as some say. But reading Jims post it kinda says why I don't on my doubles other autos or a pump unless storing. A light coat of outters oil is my go to. Like Jim mentioned if you use CLP, you will want to blast some out with air or something. It is great, but it has to be described no different than a sloppy foamy oil on steroids. I bathe my AR in it. And again, I always blast out all old junk with gun scrubber spray first. It cleans all that old film and carbon, gone. I use bore snakes soaked in outers through the pipes. Leaves the barrel tits, and just right with a light coat. Done in seconds.

After storage I blast out my CLP with gun scrubber as well and do a light Outers.
 
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I 100% Guarantee the issue was rem oil. Why we named any gun that used it for a buddy a remjamber LOL. Trust me it was not the guns. I too had brand new benelli's, a gold hunter browning, Remington 1100's, 870's and on. All had issues. Not just me. Friends would gum up as well. Rem oil may be fine for you. But up here, with us, it has been crap. Outters 0 issues with the same guns. I even tried this with my OU a couple years back again with rem oil. Same issues. Gun would not reset. Used gunscrubber to rid the remjammer lube, sprayed with break free, and never an issue again. I am using the same guns to this day. The only dif is rem jamber oil. :)


This is just my observation with several guns. What works for some, great. The OP also mentioned rem oil and issues if not mistaken. ? The issues were in extreme cold extended long days use. A clean gun should not gum up just by being cold and clean.
Ken
 
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Check out Ballistol lubricant. I worked as a game warden for 25 years so failure was not an option. It worked from the deserts of Arizona to Alaska and salt water conditions on the coast without any encountered problems. It is also a lot more friendly on you health wise then many of the other products mentioned in this thread. Just a thought.
 
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