Road Rash on the Browning

W

-Wildcat-

Super Moderator
My Citori had a little run in with the gravel. It's newer, with a high gloss finish. Any suggestions on repairing at least most of the scratches? Some character is okay.
 
Got any photos? I'd be taking it to a gunsmith for some refinishing. But that's just me. I like things nice and want them to stay that way. Even in my field guns.
 
Pretty tough to fix without a professional and lots of $$$$
 
-Wildcat- said:
My Citori had a little run in with the gravel. It's newer, with a high gloss finish. Any suggestions on repairing at least most of the scratches? Some character is okay.
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Poly or Oil finish?

Since you mentioned high gloss I will suspect you have a poly finish. Really depends on how deep the scratches are I would think. small scratches may be able to be touched up but if it's deep enough to take some of the color out of the wood it may need to be stripped completely to fix it right.

Pics?
 
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You might try following the same steps that's recommended for furniture repair.

Google "furniture repair" and you'll find several ways to refinish. Often 0000 steel wool and linseed oil will blend the existing scratch.
 
Man, that's really nothing. Know what I'd try first as an inexpensive thing? Get yourself some Old English Scratch Cover for dark wood and see how much that hides. I know it's always a bummer to get those first scratches on a gun but if your gun is your main shooter there are bound to be more. I don't see anything in the photos that I couldn't live with and I'm pretty darn particular about my guns. You should be able to buy Old English in any of the big box stores or major grocery chains. I think I bought my last bottle at Target. After the Old English give a good rub down with a good wood oil. Good luck.
 
They're a little deeper than they look though, at least some of them. The camera doesn't do the dings justice unfortunately. I was thinking about hitting the deeper scratches with a hard poly, wet sanding until I can feel no indentation, then put a final coat on everything besides the checkering. Overkill? I mean, this gun fell off the bed rail onto the gravel. The top lever is stuck on open.
 
I'd chalk it up to character and look at them and fondly remember my days in the field.
 
Yikes

My Browning owners manual says a scratch or mar tells a good story, I think the bowling pin finish shows scratches easily. Midwest Gun Works will refinish the whole gun for 305 bucks. 100 more for an oil finish. I think I'd just leave em on there and tell the grandkids about it.
 
-Wildcat- said:
They're a little deeper than they look though, at least some of them. The camera doesn't do the dings justice unfortunately. I was thinking about hitting the deeper scratches with a hard poly, wet sanding until I can feel no indentation, then put a final coat on everything besides the checkering. Overkill? I mean, this gun fell off the bed rail onto the gravel. The top lever is stuck on open.
Click to expand...

The Problem with scratches in poly if it's deep enough to get into the wood is that your removing color. So even if you could level out the scratch and apply more poly, your still going to see that scratch unless you can color it with a stain or something.

Minwax wipe on poly could possibly be used for touch-ups that are not deep?? Sorry i don't have any experience with it though. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/wipe-ons/minwax-wipe-on-poly

That's the knock on poly finishes. They are very durable and protect the wood very well, but when they get scratches they stick out like a sore thumb. Oil finishes require a bit more care, but are easy to fix if you get some dings or if simply need to refresh the finish every couple years, you just add some more.

If your comfortable with wood refinishing you could turn this into a winter project and strip the entire finish off and replace with a nice satin oil finish which is a time consuming process initially, but a labor of love.

Here is a guy who I've had refinish a gunstock for me and do a nice job. http://www.finegunstockrefinishing.com/Before_After.html
 
Here's one method I viewed on the "net."

Sand with no-load 400 grit paper...
Wipe white haze clean
Wipe on or spray coat of poly.

You can use 0000 steel wool. but it's difficult to control.

Google "repairing poly finish"; lots of tips on the net. Note: when refinishing any poly product - doors, windows, et al the poly has to be sanded or the stain will not penetrate - it sits on top!

Show us the finished job when you are done
 
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I have used a Turtle Wax rubbing/polishing compound to buff out scratches in polyurethane high luster finishes. In fact on a Browning O/U before. You can take out big dents with a wet/damp wash cloth and a hot clothes iron. You have to be careful not to do it the point of discoloring/staining the wood. It will swell and pull most dents. No matter what. It will not be like new, never will unless you have the whole gun refinished.
 
I use these products daily in the cabinet installation world. I know I could fix it right up if it was mine.

If nothing else, get a stain pen that matches and dot the scratches. At least theyll be less noticeable.

clear gloss fingernail polish in the dents will fill them after you color them.


http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/
 
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