Just a thought.....(dog safety)

Nobody in their right mind would ever fault you for destroying a trap to save your dog. (the operative words being "right mind")

If somebody comes up with this ratchet type cutting tool, please post it up.
 
I have trapped beaver with 330s and at times they are not easy to remove. I use the rope method and locks can still be a difficult. Practice with something of bulk and weight in trap .
 
The steel in these traps is more like spring steel, it will be tough to cut.
But after we practice opening the trap. if someone has cutters that are portable enough to carry hunting and running dogs all the time, we can try it on this trap.
 
BrownDogsCan2 said:
I think knipix (sp?) makes the best cutter in that size range. Not sure if they would cut a 220. Maybe with cheeter bars?
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I agree. Small bolt cutters are going to be tough unless you can get some longer handles with some torque. That metal is pretty tough. I use a small hitachi mini grinder to cut off bolts and stuff. It would work well and make short work of any part of the trap. They weigh about 1.5 pounds and run 75-80 bucks. Just a thought.

Ps. As far as damaging property goes, if my dog or a buddies dog was caught in a trap I could give a crap about that:)
 
The trap can be replaced. Maybe the key here is to aim for the weakest point. That would be the jaw hinge rivet. It's not spring steel and would be easier to cut if you can get at it.
 
Trap

Brittman had a good post on this on 1-17. I went the zip tie route. There's a link to a good video on his post. I started carrying side cutter, poly rope, and zip ties in my vest after almost losing my dog in a
conibear on public land in eastern SD. I spent some time at Gander fooling around with the trap and getting to know it's function. If it would have happened I would have been clueless and lost my dog.
 
traps

all these postings are important but the bottom line you are far more likely to have serious trouble getting to your hunting area, like a car accident then your dog is ever going to find a trap. i have not dealt with this type of trap but it surely looks from the video's and post, the dog really doesn't stand much of a chance even if the hunter is there to see the trap close. if the neck isn't broken then you have a time span of maybe two minutes, pretty small amount of time with all the turmoil that would be taking place. not saying to give up but it looks like we are up against the wall on this one.

cheers
 
mustistuff said:
all these postings are important but the bottom line you are far more likely to have serious trouble getting to your hunting area, like a car accident then your dog is ever going to find a trap. i have not dealt with this type of trap but it surely looks from the video's and post, the dog really doesn't stand much of a chance even if the hunter is there to see the trap close. if the neck isn't broken then you have a time span of maybe two minutes, pretty small amount of time with all the turmoil that would be taking place. not saying to give up but it looks like we are up against the wall on this one.

cheers
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My thoughts precisely.

I used to trap muskrats with the 110 traps. Necks and backs are broken instantly. These are kill traps, very efficient and humane.

I used mine strictly as water sets in runs. I would love to see a law passed that conibears be only used in water or on leaning trees up off the ground. Much less likely for a dog to come in contact with one when set in the water.

Not saying it's not a good idea to learn how to open one because I think it is very important. But, the chances of a dog lasting more than a couple of minutes in one are very slim. Sad facts but I believe true.
 
Prairie Drifter said:
The trap can be replaced. Maybe the key here is to aim for the weakest point. That would be the jaw hinge rivet. It's not spring steel and would be easier to cut if you can get at it.
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This is all great information and I've taken it to heart. If my dog is caught in a legally set trap, I will gladly pay for a new trap if destroying the trap is necessary to save (or attempt to save) my dog. However, I think that getting a bird dog caught in a 220 or larger conibear in Kansas SHOULD be very slim. It is my understanding that conibears must be set at least 1/2 submerged. Thus, a dog would have to literally stick their head under water to get caught in the trap.

I think snares would be more concerning, but easier to deal with. I've got a multitool that will be able to cut most snare wire at least once and it stays in my vest.
 
Allright I went ahead and cut a 220 . I'm 5'9 170...and it was a bitch. Took 2 hands and about 30 sec. Someone like Tom could probably squeeze right through it. If you going to carry cutters , don't skimp, chinese wont cut it. Now Im off to make myself a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.:(:D

(A note on the cutters I used, they have a notch in the cutting head. By starting my cut and then sliding the bar into the notch , I've cut my time down to 10 or 12 seconds. The model number is kn7131)

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Great thread!

Guys.....thanks for the comments on this topic!
I am considering ordering a 220 myself and learning how to deal with it.

I have encountered snare type traps only 2x in my 30+ years of hunting across the prairie. 1st time was in Nebraska when I was around 20 and hunting w/ my dad. Our lab was between us in a creek bed and we heard a yelp.....found her with the snare around her neck. We had never seen this before and both of us panicked a bit, but good old dad finally released the trap and the lab was ok:)

2nd time was in Kansas maybe 15 years ago......hunting quail w/ a friend from TN and his brace of pointers. Heard a yelp and found a female pointer in a similar snare......this time I was prepared and used my leatherman to cut it.
 
You might be able to cut a 220, but the 330 is a good bit heavier steel.

For you guys in the Manhattan area. I am going to have to work Saturday and Sunday. But we can see if we could get together later in the week.
We have a lot going on at the plant through Tuesday, so I am pretty much tied up till then.

One thing I know for sure, is if your dog is in one of these traps and you don't know how to get it open quickly, the dog has no chance. If you know how to get the dog out, it might have a chance.

I for one am going to know how to get the dang thing open! period!!!

I did buy some 14" wire ties, they are not long enough to reach around, but 2 together should reach.
 
I don't think I've ever seen a leatherman with enough balls to cut through aircraft cable. Besides, it's easier and quicker to just slide the lock up.
 
no you're right Steve, I wouldn't be able to cut through a 330 or a 280. A 220 is as large as can be set as a legal land set. I wouldn't rely on one way of doing it. I cut mine in a way that I can still practice setting it. When I'm comfortable with it, I'll practice cutting it.
 
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