Just a thought.....(dog safety)

P

Point!

Member
Although I almost never post, for years I have read this forum everyday....sometimes twice. Because of this, I feel like I almost "know" the regular posters and their dogs. With this in mind, I thought I'd share something I have done recently that I hope will never become necessary. I have learned to open a conibear trap.

Having hunted Kansas for most of my adult life I'm vary familiar with most of the spots that I hunt. Even so, there are times when I come across a trap. Some are legal and some are set illegally. Given that I'm spending quite a bit of time hunting outside of Kansas this year (imagine that), and having read some horrifying posts and articles over the years about dogs killed in traps, I decided that watching videos and reading on how to free dogs from traps wasn't enough.

I took the simple step of learning to open various traps. The conibear is considered the ultimate dog killer so I thought I'd learn to tackle it first. How? It was very simple, I ordered one! When it arrived I messed with it for probably 30 minutes. I can now open the trap in a few seconds! After learning how to open the trap, I had my hunting partner come over and do the same.

I hope this is knowledge I'll never use, but should disaster strike, and I can get there in time (I run a multi dog Astro), perhaps I can help instead of standing there watching one of my dogs die.

For those of you that are interested, here's the bottom line, the cost of a "280" to my door was $29.00. A pretty cheap price for this type of lesson.

Good luck to everybody on what is going to be the toughest year for birds we've ever seen.

Point!
 
Point!

Great thread. My boys and I dug an old trap out of grampa's shed recently and took it home to do the very same thing you've done with the new one you ordered. My older boy and I can get it set and unset quickly now.

I need to better educate myself on the different kinds of traps. The type of trap we have now is the type I've seen used most in KS...it's some kind of leg trap. Maybe I can figure out via Google exactly what it's called.
 
Seems like there are a lot of these posts out there -- but could you provide some more details on the method you used to get the trap open? Any thoughts on how to deal with a flailing dog while attempting to open the trap, calm nerves, et. cetera. How many times did it take you until you felt comfortable with it?

Also, when you've encountered traps like this, where have they been? Were they "body" traps or footholds? In Kansas, all body traps must be at least 1/2 submerged, were the ones you encountered not submerged? If so, did they have ID? Did you call the police/warden, etc?
 
KA Troutman, great questions.

I tried several methods to get the trap open. Probably the first thing I want to say is that if had encountered one of these in the field, and had no experience, I would not have been able to free my dog. Also two guys and a bootlace can do the job easily if both know how the trap works (better have a darned good bootlace).

I tried several methods. The one I think I will use is either a leash with a looped end (I always carry one in my vest) or a zip-tie (easy to carry). What is difficult is that the trap has to be maneuvered in such a manner that the loops on the springs are vertical in order to use a boot/leash combo. The zip ties can be used in any position but require significant strength and coordination.

I'd say the first thing to do is to rotate the trap so that it is not closed on the windpipe. This may buy you some additional time if you get there late in the event. The dog will still choke but it looks like rotating the trap may (not sure about this) give the dog a gulp or two of air.

Regarding a flailing dog, it won't flail long if you know what I mean. My guess is that from the time the dog stops flailing until its too late is time enough to get the dog released....but you may only have one chance. The fact is I really don't know, and won't know, until the time comes.

I have encountered both submerged and unsubmerged tagged and untagged traps. Those that I find that are set illegally are removed and destroyed. It is rare that I find a conibear. For the traps that are set legally, there's not much that can be done. Normally when I find a properly set trap (name and address) the landowner knows about it. When they aren't tagged, the landowner usually doesn't know about it.

Locations vary. From a geographic standpoint I have found traps pretty much all over the state. The type of cover they're in varies. It really depends on what the trapper is looking for. Of greatest concern are those that set the traps on the ground or in a hole looking for coyotes and badgers. These seem to be in areas that are also good for birds.

I'm guessing I have found most types of traps that are the "norm". Foot, leg, and cage traps don't bother me much. Yes, foot and leg traps can hurt the dog, but the damage is usually minimal. Conibear and snares look to be a different story.

I hope that answers your questions!

Point!
 
traps

some of these post were run last fall. a great start would be to look at the videos on like utube, there are a number of them out there. one serious problem with like the conibear is that if you don't have a trap setter in your back pocket you may not have enough muscle to release it. the farmer where i hunt some uses them to trap beaver late winter and this guy is all muscle top to bottom, he says he can hardly release them with his hands, i wouldn't stand a chance. knowing how to do it would be a start though and at least you could try, the other problem would be trying to control a struggling dog. they all have a release hook attached so that if you break it over you can hook it.

cheers
 
If you're running into conibears while bird hunting, you'd better figure out how to get them off. They are NOTHING like a leg hold trap. (I have several)
I would suggest learning and using the rope trick to releasing them. A 220 is a bear to wrestle with and a 330 (which is typically used for beaver) is darn near impossible to release with your bare hands.
If any of ya'all have watched the series "Mountain Men" the old guy in Montana uses the rope trick with his conibears.
I must say, other than a trespasser, the only illegally set trap in Kansas is a dry set conibear. Messing with a guy's trap, even if it's to check for a name tag, (unless you're the land owner), is inappropriate.
 
I have watched the video and think I have a good idea on how to get it off.
But I think I my go buy one to practice with, and then I have some friend that run dogs that could stand to learn how to open one as well.

My dogs are worth a lot more to me than the cost of a trap.
 
Setternut, if you get that trap, please let me know. I also was thinking of getting one so that I could get familiar with opening one. I worry about them every year.
 
Thrasher said:
Setternut, if you get that trap, please let me know. I also was thinking of getting one so that I could get familiar with opening one. I worry about them every year.
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I will see if I can find one in town. If I get one you are welcome to practice with it.
 
Thrasher said:
Setternut, if you get that trap, please let me know. I also was thinking of getting one so that I could get familiar with opening one. I worry about them every year.
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Add me to the list on that please, Setternut or KB. I have never encountered anything but a leg hold trap, but I would also appreciate the education.:thumbsup:
 
Toad said:
Add me to the list on that please, Setternut or KB. I have never encountered anything but a leg hold trap, but I would also appreciate the education.:thumbsup:
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Would you guys be willing to meet up on a Friday or Saturday evening? Everyone could bring the trap(s) they have. We could make sure we have each kind of trap we might encounter; I do know a couple more guys that have 'em. All I have is the leg-hold trap.

I would like to practice on every type and collaborating might be the best way to get several kinds in front of us.
 
I bought a 220 trap. I can tell you the there is no way I could open this trap with just my hands.

I used a small leash that I keep in the back of my vest and compressed the spring on one side. But I could not get the other side, as the leash was getting pinched.

I may have to work this weekend, will not know until late in the day on Friday. But we can get some of us together and practice on the trap.
 
Two years ago I started carrying two 6-8 foot pieces of parachute cord just for that situation. I have watched the video, but have never practiced it. I don't have any traps but would really like to meet up with everyone and get familiarized with what is out there.
 
SetterNut said:
I bought a 220 trap. I can tell you the there is no way I could open this trap with just my hands.

I used a small leash that I keep in the back of my vest and compressed the spring on one side. But I could not get the other side, as the leash was getting pinched.

I may have to work this weekend, will not know until late in the day on Friday. But we can get some of us together and practice on the trap.
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Just pick the place and let me know what time. I have Saturday afternoon/evening open after the boys' football games. I'll be in Manhattan Sunday afternoon for BASEBALL:thumbsup:

I'll try to remember to check this thread Friday. We could probably do this in an hour or so.
 
Posted by Setternut
I used a small leash that I keep in the back of my vest and compressed the spring on one side. But I could not get the other side, as the leash was getting pinched.
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Same thing happened to me. Try opening that side first...worked for me.

Also, that's why I bought the trap, watching a video and doing it in real life are two very different things. You guys have a great idea in getting together with your traps and figuring them out. Wish I was closer!

Point!
 
When trapping beaver, I carry a 6-7 foot length of 1/4 inch braided rope with me with a loop tied in one end. It is easy to quickly make a larger loop from the small loop and slip it over your boot to use the rope method of setting. You do need to remember that setting a loose trap with nothing in it is going to be different than opening one with your dog trying to escape at the same time. You will have to work around the dog's movement, his/her teeth, and the trap that will be wanting to fold up. Maybe a better scenario is to find a tool that could cut one jaw in just seconds that is portable enough to carry on your belt. That would immediately release the suffocating pressure on the dog's breathing and allow additional time for further release work. A racheting type cutter comes to mind. Just a thought.
 
traps

Prairie Drifter said:
When trapping beaver, I carry a 6-7 foot length of 1/4 inch braided rope with me with a loop tied in one end. It is easy to quickly make a larger loop from the small loop and slip it over your boot to use the rope method of setting. You do need to remember that setting a loose trap with nothing in it is going to be different than opening one with your dog trying to escape at the same time. You will have to work around the dog's movement, his/her teeth, and the trap that will be wanting to fold up. Maybe a better scenario is to find a tool that could cut one jaw in just seconds that is portable enough to carry on your belt. That would immediately release the suffocating pressure on the dog's breathing and allow additional time for further release work. A racheting type cutter comes to mind. Just a thought.
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believe a lot of strength is needed to release the tension but once that is done i was under the impression that there was a catch already on the trap to hold it open while you released the other side, in most cases time being of the essences the dog doesn't stand much of a chance unless you are right there and see it happen, still you don't have to ignorant about them. most leg hold usually will not seriously damage the dog

cheers
 
You're right, there is a hook to hold the spring open after you depress the spring. However, the springs are set vertically and the dog will be horizontal. When dealing with coons, they are dead and not struggling, nor are they biting. With them you can stand it up on end and work. With a live dog, standing it up on end will exasperate the problem perhaps.
 
Prairie Drifter said:
When trapping beaver, I carry a 6-7 foot length of 1/4 inch braided rope with me with a loop tied in one end. It is easy to quickly make a larger loop from the small loop and slip it over your boot to use the rope method of setting. You do need to remember that setting a loose trap with nothing in it is going to be different than opening one with your dog trying to escape at the same time. You will have to work around the dog's movement, his/her teeth, and the trap that will be wanting to fold up. Maybe a better scenario is to find a tool that could cut one jaw in just seconds that is portable enough to carry on your belt. That would immediately release the suffocating pressure on the dog's breathing and allow additional time for further release work. A racheting type cutter comes to mind. Just a thought.
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Prairie Drifter, I like this idea! I have watched the video's, seen the traps and how they work, but no one I know has experience with a live frantic hunting dog inside the jaws of those traps! I might just look for the cutter that would ratchet through and carry that in the vest. Seems like the quickest way to release the dog. I know some guys are saying now you are destroying another man's property. If his info is on the trap set I would certainly take it down and send him a new one with a note explaining why his was cut or broke.
 
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