Wing Shooter
Member
My biggest mistake was not shouldering my shotgun while wearing a down jacket and a vest before leaving. I've hunted a lot of upland game...in So Cal. During coldest parts of upland seasons, a light jacket was warm enough. Often, I hunted in a t-shirt and blaze orange vest. A 13 1/2 LOP would have been perfect for cold Kansas mornings.
My guide, who was of the highest echelon of pheasant savvy, looked over my arsenal of 12 gauge shells. He carefully examined every box of factory ammo. I anticipated his choosing #5. Nope. He handed me a box of #6 high base and told me to use them. They worked.
I never hunted upland game in below-freezing temperatures.
I saw a ton of 20 gauge shells scattered on the field of pheasants. I hunted with hunters who used 12 gauge shotguns. Benelli was the most popular shotgun.
Keeping in mind that I have only one sub-freezing pheasant hunt under my belt, the following is what I learned, not to be confused with knowledge:
1. A lightweight, fast-handling 20 gauge shotgun with a 26" would be perfect.
2. Practice shouldering the shotgun you'll use with clothes you'll wear before you go.
3. An O/U or SxS would be a perfect pheasant gun.
4. Kill pheasants on the flush. If the first shot doesn't fold 'em, a second shot might. The third shot is a wasted shell.
5. A long barrel isn't necessary to kill flushed pheasants. A 24" barrel might be ideal for killing flushed birds.
6. Shotgun and ammo are nowhere as important as getting your gun's muzzle on a flushed bird ASAP.
7. Always know where your guide, other hunters, and dogs are before shouldering a shotgun.
Reference #7, my guide told me a story of a pheasant hunter who was shot in the back at close range by another hunter. By an act of God, the shotgun-shot victim lived. I'm sure he spent quite a spell in hospital. My guess is cold weather clothing probably saved his life.
Since I haven't attained prairie pheasant hunter status, I welcome input.
My guide, who was of the highest echelon of pheasant savvy, looked over my arsenal of 12 gauge shells. He carefully examined every box of factory ammo. I anticipated his choosing #5. Nope. He handed me a box of #6 high base and told me to use them. They worked.
I never hunted upland game in below-freezing temperatures.
I saw a ton of 20 gauge shells scattered on the field of pheasants. I hunted with hunters who used 12 gauge shotguns. Benelli was the most popular shotgun.
Keeping in mind that I have only one sub-freezing pheasant hunt under my belt, the following is what I learned, not to be confused with knowledge:
1. A lightweight, fast-handling 20 gauge shotgun with a 26" would be perfect.
2. Practice shouldering the shotgun you'll use with clothes you'll wear before you go.
3. An O/U or SxS would be a perfect pheasant gun.
4. Kill pheasants on the flush. If the first shot doesn't fold 'em, a second shot might. The third shot is a wasted shell.
5. A long barrel isn't necessary to kill flushed pheasants. A 24" barrel might be ideal for killing flushed birds.
6. Shotgun and ammo are nowhere as important as getting your gun's muzzle on a flushed bird ASAP.
7. Always know where your guide, other hunters, and dogs are before shouldering a shotgun.
Reference #7, my guide told me a story of a pheasant hunter who was shot in the back at close range by another hunter. By an act of God, the shotgun-shot victim lived. I'm sure he spent quite a spell in hospital. My guess is cold weather clothing probably saved his life.
Since I haven't attained prairie pheasant hunter status, I welcome input.