Help: Gun Advice

T

torch

New member
I have been hunting pheasants once a year for about five years now. I would like to get more into bird hunting as well as sporting clays (which I have never done).
The gun I have is a Browning BPS pump. Very nice gun that was given to me by my dad. I would however like to move to a over/under. What gun would you recommend? I will probably buy used to keep price down.
Thanks in advance!
 
Browning Citori. Good quality, good priced and lots of them around
 
Thats what I was thinking. What should I look for when buying? I know nothing about chokes or anything else pertaining to the guns. Like I said just want to get more into clays and hunting. Looking for as much advice and information I can find.
 
Make sure you get a gun with choke tubes. No fixed choke guns(older). IMO, I would stick to a 12ga for the multi uses that you intend to use it for. Make sure that it's length of pull(stock length). Has not been cut, unless that is what's comfortable for you. Fit is very important, specially if you intend to get into the clays game. If you buy something at a good gun shop type place. I'm sure that they could help you with proper fit.
 
Any suggestions on barrel length? Also, I was thinking twelve gauge as that is what my BPS is now. Anybody believe I should use anything else or stick with the twelve.
 
Talking barrel length is like discussing Ford and Chevy. It is all what you prefer. I have shot shotgun for over 50 years. So I'm from the days of long barrels. I perfer the 28 inch for me I get a nice smoth swing from them. That I can keep going. If I should to 26 inch I stop my swing a lot. So I'm suggesting the 28 inch barrel. But like I said it is all what works best for you.............Bob
 
Sporting clays and pheasants - gun??

Good morning:

Interesting question regarding "which gun."

For years I shot a 12 ga, browning A5, 26". Still have the gun but use it as a back-up; due to surgery, had to switch to a 20 ga, Bng. gold auto, 26" and use improved cyl most of the time. Lighter gun and less kick than the over/under.

I'm hunting over a dog so the pheasant shots are close - I don't bother with the long shots that tend to cripple. Use 7.5 shells - more pellets and better pattern than 6's.

I see lots of over/under guns at the sporting range...my shoulder can't take the pounding.

Good luck and good hunting.

jon
 
torch said:
Any suggestions on barrel length? Also, I was thinking twelve gauge as that is what my BPS is now. Anybody believe I should use anything else or stick with the twelve.
Click to expand...

Ever hit a quail with a direct hit from a 12ga? Really not much point in it. I can understand wanting more lead flying in a sporting clays match or sitting in a goose blind but it isn't necessary for upland game. There isn't one gun that does everything well.
 
Before you buy an O/U, try one with hunting loads first. O/U's are cool looking and handle nice, but will jar you pretty good with heavier loads than target loads. You should also try one of the new lightweight autoloaders too. A Browning Maxus weighs 7 lbs (like a 20GA) but cuts the recoil of those heavy hunting loads. My 3" Maxus cycles all loads tried from 7/8 oz clays loads at 1200 fps to the 3" mags.

I have Citori's in 12/16/20. The 16 and 20 see some pheasant action early, but the 625 (12GA) just sits in the safe waiting for the right buyer. Like some other older hunters, recoil is not tolerated as well as it once was, and the Maxus fits the bill.
 
went to a gun dealer today and fell in love with a Browning Liege...interesting gun. Any thoughts from anybody who knows more than me about guns. I would appreciate any info.
 
I have a Browning Liege I bought in Germany, absolutely love it. Matter of fact I would love to have another but don't need any more Guns right now, especially since my wife is looking over my shoulder, yeh she just said I had that right. Darn :)
 
IMO, you want something with choke tubes. The drive is to ban lead shot nearly everywhere. You shouldn't fire steel, tungsten, Hevi-Shot, Remington HD, Etc through a fixed choke gun. Specially a older softer steel type guns made for shooting lead.

If it were me, I would be looking for a newer gun with interchangeable choke tubes. It also nice when shooting the clay games to be able to change chokes for certain stations.
 
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On Point, can you educate me a bit on chokes...also why is shot other than lead for the gun I mentioned. Remember, I am a novice.
Also, I should mention, I would not like to spend more than a grand for now anyway.
 
copheasanthunter can you tell me a little more about your experiance with that gun. Is there anything I should be concerned about or look for if I were to buy one. What is the going price for a gun like that.
Are local gun dealers prices negotiable?
 
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_not_steel_shot_in_Belgium_Browning_Barrel

The use of steel shot doesn't directly have anything to do with a "Belgium" made shotgun barrel. The only significance is that the gun/barrel was manufactured in in Begium. The problem with steel shot can be a problem with any shotgun made before the steel shot came into use. The problem has to do with the choke. The use of lead shotshells didn't pose a problem because lead is soft compared to steel. The choke is a constriction at the end of the barrel that can change the shot pattern of the shotshell pellets. The inside diameter of a typical 12 gauge shotgun is about .726 +or- a few thousanths. The constriction of a full choke is about .030 thousanths tighter with a diameter of about .696

Steel shot doesn't compress the same a lead and as a result can damage an older gun not designed for steel shot. Most older guns can handle steel shot if they have a more open choke for example an Improved Cylinder choke. Another alternative is to use another non-lead alternative ie. bismuth. Even with new guns you shouldn't use Full Choke with steel. Modified Choke will generally produce relatively tight patterns with steel. If the gun has some collector value, don't take a chance. If you are determined to hunt with it and want to shoot steel shot, see a gun barrel specialist like Ballistic Specialties in Batesville Arkansas. They can do anything just about with a shotgun barrel.
 
Thanks for the info. I will be using some steel shot though much of the land I hunt I can use lead. I have no idea what choke this gun has. Maybe I should keep looking. I just liked the way this gun looked and felt and the price seemed fair.
 
This is my reasoning, IMO, the days of lead shot being legal are numbered. If deemed illegal, many, many fixed choke guns will become wall hangers. Simply put, the cost of other softer type non toxic shots like Bismuth, Kent Tungsten Matrix, Hevi Shot Classic Doubles, Etc., can run $3.00 to $5.00 plus per shell. Not many are going to afford that kind of ammo. It's your decision, I'm just thinking ahead.
 
Brownings have Screw In Chokes

torch said:
Thats what I was thinking. What should I look for when buying? I know nothing about chokes or anything else pertaining to the guns. Like I said just want to get more into clays and hunting. Looking for as much advice and information I can find.
Click to expand...

Browning Citoris, "Citori" being what Browning calls all its o/u guns, have screw in Invector Plus choke tubes. The chokes range from "cylinder" (no choke) down to turkey (lotsa choke). For pheasant most hunters seem to shoot through skeet or improved cylinder for the first shot and modified for the second shot. In other words, your first shot is through a more open choke with a bigger pattern but less range and your second shot goes through a tighter choke with a smaller pattern but more range in case you missed your first shot or you're going for a double.

From cylinder to turkey, the chokes tighten as follows although I am not sure if Invector Plus makes all of them:

Cylinder
Skeet
Improved Cylinder
Light Modified
Modified
Improved modified
Full
Extra full/Turkey

I recommend an o/u gun for several reasons. They are shorter overall and carry lighter because of that. They are safer because you always know the status of your gun by breaking it open. They are simple -- less parts than pumps and autos. You have better shooting opportunites because of the two barrels with different chokes. You can also mix loads: No. 6 for your first shot, no. 5 for your second. If you miss on your first shot you have more range for that second shot or for the second bird on a double attempt. If you flush quail, you can easily pull out the pheasant loads and drop no. 7 1/2s or 8s in the barrels in just seconds.

I just got a new 625 Citori 12 ga. and love it. If Brownings are not at your price point, take a look at Stoeger Condor which are entry level. Also, for hunting you'll probably want a "Field" model rather than a "Sport" or "Sporting." Have fun gun shopping!
 
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