Opening Fixed Choke?

Chirocat46

Chirocat46

Member
Hello all,

Recently have inherited a few shotguns from my late grandfather. One is a Remington 11-48 and the other is a Remington 11. Both are 16GA and both are fixed full choke. Would love to carry them this season but being in north central kansas I see a lot more quail than pheasant. Hunt over pointing dog, shots are generally taken withing 25-30 yards and feel full choke would be a bit excessive and not the best fit for majority of shots taken. Anyone have any experience with opening a fixed choke?

Will probably only open the 11-48

TIA
 
I've had two older shotguns modified by a very good gunsmith. Took a while, because he was very busy. He needed to cut and then thread the barrels. Work fine. Bring your own chokes, not something he'd have in stock...especially 16 gauge.

Good luck
 
Kismet said:
I've had two older shotguns modified by a very good gunsmith. Took a while, because he was very busy. He needed to cut and then thread the barrels. Work fine. Bring your own chokes, not something he'd have in stock...especially 16 gauge.

Good luck
Click to expand...
I think he is talking about just opening the choke, not installing tubes. Should be a fairly easy process for a competent gunsmith.

If the majority of shots are taken within 30 yds. I'd have it opened to IC.

If the OP would let us know where he is located we could maybe recommend a good gunsmith in his area.
 
Re-reading the original post I see the OP must be in Kansas???

I'd suggest Mike Orlen in Amherst, MA to do the work. He is very well know for his quality work at a reasonable price.
 
If you are handy, it is not a difficult job to do yourself.

I have opened the chokes on about 4 barrels. I have worked from the muzzle and never seen it change the point of impact of the gun.

The first I did several years ago was a 12 gauge Model 12 that I inherited from my grandfather. The gun had fixed full choke that measured 0.695". I opened it to 0.715" or light modified.

I used a "D" size hand adjustable reamer for the 12 gauge.

For 16 gauge, you need a "C" size reamer. The reamers can be ordered online or purchased from a machine supply store for about $35.

After reaming the choke it is a simple matter to hone the bore with emery cloth spun on a split dowel in a drill.

You can cut a choke to a desired measurement if you have a bore gauge and caliper.

However, the most enjoyable way to open a choke is to cut a small amount and then pattern the gun until you achieve your desired pattern. Keep in mind that it is much more difficult to put metal back than to remove it. If you cut to a desired measurement, stop a couple thousands short to allow for honing.
 
Dakotazeb said:
Re-reading the original post I see the OP must be in Kansas???

I'd suggest Mike Orlen in Amherst, MA to do the work. He is very well know for his quality work at a reasonable price.
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Yes located in Kansas near Manhattan. Will definitely look into the suggestion, was thinking on having it opened to IC or LM
 
John Singer said:
If you are handy, it is not a difficult job to do yourself.

I have opened the chokes on about 4 barrels. I have worked from the muzzle and never seen it change the point of impact of the gun.

The first I did several years ago was a 12 gauge Model 12 that I inherited from my grandfather. The gun had fixed full choke that measured 0.695". I opened it to 0.715" or light modified.

I used a "D" size hand adjustable reamer for the 12 gauge.

For 16 gauge, you need a "C" size reamer. The reamers can be ordered online or purchased from a machine supply store for about $35.

After reaming the choke it is a simple matter to hone the bore with emery cloth spun on a split dowel in a drill.

You can cut a choke to a desired measurement if you have a bore gauge and caliper.

However, the most enjoyable way to open a choke is to cut a small amount and then pattern the gun until you achieve your desired pattern. Keep in mind that it is much more difficult to put metal back than to remove it. If you cut to a desired measurement, stop a couple thousands short to allow for honing.
Click to expand...
Im sure that there are guys out there much more handier than me and would trust them over myself doing the job :LOL:
 
A5 Sweet 16 said:
Inexpensive option. Works well. If you don't want to spend money on screw-in chokes, it's just what I'd do (& have done in the past). 35 years ago, reaming cost $25.
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would need to look into cost to have it threaded vs reamed. Reamed seems like the easier fix but obviously not as versatile
 
Only one time in my life have I used a full choke for upland bird hunting. The first pheasant that I shot was turned into a pink mist. There was nothing there to pick up.

Opening the chokes guns made them much more useful and valuable to me and their owners.
 
Chirocat46 said:
would need to look into cost to have it threaded vs reamed. Reamed seems like athe easier fix but obviously not as versatile
Click to expand...
Not quite, no. But realistically, if you're only going to shoot lead, MOD is appropriate in most situations. Or even LM or IC. If you plan to shoot much non-tox, IC would most likely be the way to go. All 3 are fairly middle of the road & not much difference.
 
If you decide to do screw in chokes Briley is one of the quality companies

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John Singer said:
Only one time in my life have I used a full choke for upland bird hunting. The first pheasant that I shot was turned into a pink mist. There was nothing there to pick up.

Opening the chokes guns made them much more useful and valuable to me and their owners.
Click to expand...
Used to hunt with a guy that shot a o/u choked xfull and xx full. Not enough left of the bird to even clean but he could kill them at 80 yards
 
Well, of course, every one gets to make their own choice, but I'd rather spend the extra and have the choices of chokes than to have only one with a gun that I favor using.

Not arguing, but seems to make more sense for me, and for possible future sale or use.

Either way, best wishes.
 
There is another, and cheaper way, but it's a little risky. Cut a quarter inch at a time off. Measure from the end and mark it so you can get it as square as possible. Remove all the burs and shoot it until you get the choke you want. Keep an eye on it and apply cold blue as needed. Oxy blue is the best. If you get close, stop. Don't risk opening it too much. I bought a full choke barrel with about a quarter inch of it split in the end. Wound up with a verry nice light mod. I had a gunsmith install a bead.
 
To do it yourself, here are the diameters for the chokes in a 16 ga.:

Skeet (.005") = .657"
Improved Cylinder (.010") = .652"
Light Modified (.015") = .647"
Modified (.020") = .642"
Improved Modified (.025") = .637"
Lite Full (.030") = .632"
Full (.035") = .627"
Xtra Full (.040") = .622"

Get yourself a micrometer and locate exactly where the diameter is that you want, then cut, file, emery, and/or steel wool, and then go hunting. I'm guessing very little length will need to be removed to get the choke you want.

I had a cast put in my stock by a KS gunsmith. Don't know if he would do your type of work. Think he's 100 +/- miles from you. Send me a private message if you want his contact info.
 
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