Need some help with my 8 month old Weimaraner

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Kutzke45

New member
I have a 8 month old blue weim. So far, he is a beast in the field. We have no problems with him getting too far out, or going behind us. He is only a pup but he works the field very well. I hunt a a hunt club, and he always finds more birds than we put out, which really impresses me. He has no problem pointing, and kicking up the birds either. Once I drop the bird, I tell him to fetch it up and he goes and gets it no problem. But this is where I'm having problems. Once he gets the bird, he doesn't want to give it to me. He will come close but won't ever bring it to me. Once I start to walk towards him, he will jog away and just turn and look at me. I'm thinking it's due to the puppy in him still and the inexperience that comes with hunting. When he has the bird in his mouth, he sticks his chest out like a proud little puppy and prances around. But I'm afraid if I don't break him soon, he won't ever bring me the bird. Any suggestions? Thank you for your time.

Some more info, when we are in the house he plays fetch all the time and has no problem bringing a ball or a dummy back. But once we go outside, it all changes, he does the same thing during the hunt. I'm currently in college but my dog is with my parents. We live on 5 acres with a forty acre setaside field literally running up to our property.
 
When he picks up the bird and just starts to bring it to you walk away from him quickly while calling him in to you. Be as exicited as you can about it and when he does bring it to you praise the hell out of him.
 
Okay thanks for the quick reply. It makes sense because I get irritated and walk away then he comes up to me. Thanks again.
 
Had the same issue with my younger golden. They want to play. It was almost instant success when I turned my back and shouted "sage lets go". She grabbed the bird and brought it with her. A guy explained to me some time ago that you're engaging instinct reaction by doing this. The pup will not risk being left behind by its "pack" so they follow you but at the same time, they absolutely don't want to just leave bird behind.
 
All the other posts offer good advice. He is a pup being a pup. But you need to solidify your obedience training. Specifically the here or come command. I bet he tends to come to you under his conditions. I would always run him wearing a check cord till he is rock solid. Than I would CC him to the here command. When he does return to you don't rush to take the bird. Let him enjoy his prize a little

Good luck
Steve
 
Your dog had the typical "Golden Retriever Syndrome", prance around and show off. A puppy thing...

As some have suggested, ignore the dog and he'll probably come to you, especially if you have a piece of wiener or other treat that he likes.

If the dog is collar conditioned, you might try the warning buzz - that usually gets their attention. Continue obedience training ,with a check cord dummy and wiener...
 
As Gatzby suggested i would use a cord until he is solid. Heavy praise when e comes with bird, even if you have to help him a little. As others suggested never give chase and try to be patient. Mine will always come and deliver bird to hand. Kinda weird though, he will bring bumpers back during training but turn his head when I go to grab it. He has never done it with birds so I have never had a big problem with it. Whatever you do don't shock the dog for not bringing the bird. That could cause a whole bunch of undesireable side effects.
 
I'm only suggesting a buzz, not a shock. My Max fully understands the buzz -

He still prances around at 2.5yrs old...
 
jonnyB said:
I'm only suggesting a buzz, not a shock. My Max fully understands the buzz -

He still prances around at 2.5yrs old...
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I know you were not suggesting a shock. I too use tone in most situations. Don't get me wrong mine wears a collar and I will use it on occasion.
 
Take some treats afield - little pieces of hotdog for example - and the next time he retrieves to hand give him a treat the second he drops. Repeat three times and then substitute a nice pet and "good dog."
 
Had that problem with a golden. Never failed to deliver to hand until about 1 year old. I had to send her away to a trainer to get her force broke. Most dogs will have to go through that drill to make them consistently deliver to hand. If they know what you want I don't see a problem with a nick of the e collar. Most of the time that wakes them up and the pick the bird up and run to me.
The same golden I am talking about would spit a duck out during hunt tests. (To her credit they were rank and very nasty) But I had to go offsite between tests and give her a quick reminder with the collar that she needed to finish the retrieve. She was force broke but just wanted to play instead of work all the time. That one nick would usually fix any afternoon "surprises!"
 
When my dogs were young, I always had them carry something back to the truck. Duck, goose, dummy, whatever. At the end of the walk they were always ready to give it up, and the day ended on a positive.
 
I agree with Gatzby that you need to go back and work on the here or come command to begin with. You say your dog comes on command in the house, but not in the yard. How much training have you done on the come command in the yard? The Navhda Chapter here teaches "the rule of 5" when teaching obedience to a dog. That is, that you need to teach a dog it's commands in at least 5 different locations before you can expect it to respond to the command anywhere and everywhere. Dogs are site specific learner's. If you only teach the command in the yard or the house it will only resond that way in that location. Teach come with a short lease in the yard and then with check cord. Then go out in the 40 acres and teach it there, then go to the local park where there are lots of distractions and teach it there and then find a couple more locations. Distractions are important also to teach a dog to follow commands under all conditions. After that he should know the come or here command means anywhere and all the time. Keep sessions short enough so that he doesn't get bored, you can't teach a dog that isn't interested. Always end with something fun for the dog. After that try him on the checkcord and tossing a dead bird. If he picks it up command come and give a slight tug. When he gets there let him keep the bird and praise him a lot. Then when his attention is on you and the praise, work your hand to the bird and get him to give it up. give him a treat if you want for letting you have the bird. Remember different locations again. Good luck.
 
keroko said:
I agree with Gatzby that you need to go back and work on the here or come command to begin with. You say your dog comes on command in the house, but not in the yard. How much training have you done on the come command in the yard? The Navhda Chapter here teaches "the rule of 5" when teaching obedience to a dog. That is, that you need to teach a dog it's commands in at least 5 different locations before you can expect it to respond to the command anywhere and everywhere. Dogs are site specific learner's. If you only teach the command in the yard or the house it will only resond that way in that location. Teach come with a short lease in the yard and then with check cord. Then go out in the 40 acres and teach it there, then go to the local park where there are lots of distractions and teach it there and then find a couple more locations. Distractions are important also to teach a dog to follow commands under all conditions. After that he should know the come or here command means anywhere and all the time. Keep sessions short enough so that he doesn't get bored, you can't teach a dog that isn't interested. Always end with something fun for the dog. After that try him on the checkcord and tossing a dead bird. If he picks it up command come and give a slight tug. When he gets there let him keep the bird and praise him a lot. Then when his attention is on you and the praise, work your hand to the bird and get him to give it up. give him a treat if you want for letting you have the bird. Remember different locations again. Good luck.
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Great advice. I wish I could put it on paper that well👍👍
 
Thanks Gatzby. Just trying to share what has been shared with me. Hope it helps, but as we all know not all dogs respond to the same techniques. It is best to have a specific plan to follow though in IMO. Can't be afraid to take small steps or to take a step back if need be. Most my training problems with my dog is when I think she has learned something real quick. Usually results in problems down the road and taking steps back. Shortcuts usually don't save me time in training situtions as they create cracks in the foundations for more advanced training. Obedince training is that basic foundation IMO.
 
keroko said:
Thanks Gatzby. Just trying to share what has been shared with me. Hope it helps, but as we all know not all dogs respond to the same techniques. It is best to have a specific plan to follow though in IMO. Can't be afraid to take small steps or to take a step back if need be. Most my training problems with my dog is when I think she has learned something real quick. Usually results in problems down the road and taking steps back. Shortcuts usually don't save me time in training situtions as they create cracks in the foundations for more advanced training. Obedince training is that basic foundation IMO.
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who ever it was that said a dog life equals seven years to one human had it just about right.at one year your working with a7 yr. old, at three a young adult.
theres a window when lots of info can be written into the dog but it still takes time to digest it.
i under stood algebra and geometry alot better when i was 24 then when i was 16,partly because i saw it practical use in construction.
train all through the puppy hood ,just remember it takes time to see what we're trying to accomplish ,building a house ,not just a pile of right angles
 
keroko said:
Thanks Gatzby. Just trying to share what has been shared with me. Hope it helps, but as we all know not all dogs respond to the same techniques. It is best to have a specific plan to follow though in IMO. Can't be afraid to take small steps or to take a step back if need be. Most my training problems with my dog is when I think she has learned something real quick. Usually results in problems down the road and taking steps back. Shortcuts usually don't save me time in training situtions as they create cracks in the foundations for more advanced training. Obedince training is that basic foundation IMO.
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Ain't it the truth. I had a pup just fly through hold. A year later I spent a month fixing his sloppy hold! For me obedience and basics are fun to teach since you see improvement nearly every session. Once you get into advanced stuff like d-cheating and lining drills the improvements are so small and far apart. But it's still fun to watch them do the work
 
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