Lab quartering range

great last response, and so true ,dogs arent robots, it is a dance that all the players adjust to , as conditions dictate. When a dog runs into a pod of sitting birds, they just can totally lose their minds, just like a teenage boy of 17 does around sweet smelling girls of the same age!
 
great last response, and so true ,dogs arent robots, it is a dance that all the players adjust to , as conditions dictate. When a dog runs into a pod of sitting birds, they just can totally lose their minds, just like a teenage boy of 17 does around sweet smelling girls of the same age!

:cheers:

I think max for me is 4 hunters. I may be a control freak, but more than that, and it's just a bit overwhelming for me personally. I can keep an eye on her, keep an eye on the group, and so on.

Fillmore is getting older a bit more bold, so she's ranging out a bit more which I'm ok with, but I call her in/nick if need to when it gets too far. I try to position myself in the middle of the pack so that she can see me and I can see her. When this isn't possible, bad thing happen –*like flushing/chasing out of range. it also helps with a flusher, as I've learned her body language more and I can tell when she's birdy. I tell the guy next to me (if she's in front of him or out past him, away from me), get ready, she's on something... flush. bang.
 
Jozie usually works that 15 yard range, which is perfect for me. She will range side to side, the distance depends on the cover and if she catches a scent or not.
 
Well, Parker and I now have 3 days experience in the field with his new E-collar and we're both getting the hang of it pretty well. I was disappointed in the "tone" feature of the TriTronics G3 Sport that I bought. The tone is pretty faint and it pulses on/off. I was hoping to use the tone to mimic my 1-sit, 2 turn, 3 recall whistle commands. The TriTron folks told me after the fact-"that's the way it is and you can't change it". So I've using a short beep beep sequence when I want him to turn and a long beep beep beep when I want him to come all the way back. Then a stim. if he chooses not to listen. The quartering range is coming along well and he will sometimes stop and check where I am and then adjust. The last day out I whistled just a few times so we're making good progress at improving our stealth.

ParkerAgainsm044.jpg


Thanks again for all the advice.
P.O.L.
 
that sounds great!
I don't use the tone in the field, as I guess she can't hear it while busting through grass and brush. BUT, It's great for training. basically, for me, the tone is a warning. then a nick. so, now when we train if she's non compliant (beep beep), then she usually is like, oh yeah... and all's good. no nick needed.

I use that for not turning, not coming back, etc... more often than not, she knows what she's doing (or NOT doing).

great looking dog there, and good luck with everything
 
There are to many variables for me to set a 20 yd max range. Although the majority of the time mine stay inside 25, I don't reel them back in until about 40. Wind and cover play a role in how aggressively a dog works and how comfortable the dog is in its hunt. I think the most important thing to consider is the bond formed between yourself and your dog. It's a joy to watch a dog work, knowing the two of you are working as a team. There is no place for a self hunting dog or over controlling master. Trust the dog, let him work. Pat him on the head when he's doing good, give him a dirty look when he screws up.( Look at his body language, he understands.) When the time comes ( in hot pursuit) when he stops, looks back at you, lets you get back into range and then puts that rooster up the two of you just trailed 150 yds you get it.
I'm not being disagreeable, I just thought some things were left out.

This is similar to how I run my pair of Labs. One's a pointing lab, and 10 yards would totally ruin him - besides, you need to let your pattern develop. My dogs work the line, but they know who their bonds with. I use tone on the collar & hand signals to turn them. I see soo many Labs that look like they are on a walk with their master, as the hunter kicks the brush to roust the birds.
 
If I have any dog which I have to route up the game my self, I say save the dog food, and the tripping over the dog. A pattern of around 30 yards, especially heavy cover is good. In shallow cover, farther is O.K. if you can WHOA the dog with whistle, or hand signals to wait till you get into position. Most dogs adjust their range and keep themselves in hand. Spaniels HUP to this command. I am ambivelent as to the whistle, I think it normally is used to frequently, and spooks bird, especially late season birds, but a car door does the same thing. i have seen birds exit a mile away from a slammed car door, on the other side of the section. Whistling and yacking hunters do the same thing, and say there are no birds here. At least no now. I have a freind who uses a battery radio, on a draw he is working, from a mile away, as a blocker! Most times, the birds will not run or cross open ground near the radio, hunkering down and sitting seem to be the plan. The thorough flusher is at the advantage in this game. Labs can be wonderful, but the true expert is the Springer, or a Lab with a springer pattern of hunting.
 
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