How to get better at wingshooting

Caleb Frank

Caleb Frank

New member
Hi, I've been pheasant hunting a few year now and have been having a hard time hitting birds. I've been hunting Iowa and WI with my dad and seen alot of roosters but we can't hit them. And when I finally did hit one it was wounded and ran off. My dog is a English setter and doesn't retrieve. Just got a German wire hair pointer so hopefully she will retrieve. Is there anything I could do to get better at wingshooting other than shooting Clay pigons. My dad thinks we should get simi automatic shotgun. My dad shoots a O/U and I shoot a SxS. Would that help any or by the time you get to the 3rd shot are they out of range? My dad brought his simi auto shotgun to iowa and the extractor broke on the first day, so are simi autos worth it with the higher probability of malfunctions? It could help if multiple birds get up. But we would probably be better off shooting one and getting to it fast before it runs off. Also, hunting northern Iowa with steel shot. I shot 2 pheasants and shot their tails off, but they kept flying. Are the BB's bouncing off them or not penetrating enough? I read that a lung shot pheasant can fly for several hundred yards. I watched it as long as I could and it didn't go down. I was using fairly good steel shot, winchester xpert. Would something like prarie storm steel or blackcloud be better? Thank you for the advice!
 
The type of shotgun you are both using should have nothing to do with hitting birds. I've shot winchester expert steel for years and it has no issue with bringing birds down dead. The type of dog has nothing to do with it either. Could be a choke tube issue, depending on what you are using. Your best shot will always be your first shot. Get good at making that one count. Have you been to the trap range? The best imitation of a pheasant rising in front of you would be shooting trap. Get out and get practicing. Start with the gun premounted at your shoulder. Once you get good at breaking them that way. Move on to shooting with the gun in a low mount. That way it more resembles field situations. Get consistent at that from 16 yards then start backing up your distance. When you're aiming at pheasants focus on the tip of the beak, not the whole bird. That laser focus on one specific spot rather than the whole bird has helped me immensely with my shooting percentage.
 
I am certainly not an expert wingshooter but here's what I do to try and get better.
Practice mounting the shotgun aiming at a point over and over. Repeat sweeping along a fixed line (ceiling/wall junction?). I haven't bought one yet but there are laser pointers that insert into the barrel that would give a visual reference as you sweep. Shoot lots of trap from the Port Arms position. I like to have another person behind me launch the birds at random to help with reaction time.
 
Keep working at it. Forget multi-shot automatics, heck, even forget you have a second barrel.

I live in an old farm house in rural WI, so I don't have to worry about neighbors. If you don't live in a similar area, try and find one, or, barring that, call around to a range and see if you can use their property, not necessarily their equipment, at some time when they have no one on the range, picking up any debris you leave.

Get a plastic hand-thrower, load a trap, hold the thrower in your right hand. In your left hand, hold your shotgun with ONE shell in it.

Double check your field of fire, then haul off and whip that trap out with some height to the trap flight track. Let the thrower drop out of your right hand while bringing the shotgun up to your shoulder with your left, all the while tracking the trap with your eyes. (You will become accustomed to getting the pistol grip in your right hand very quickly, don't worry about that.) As you settle the shotgun stock into your shoulder and bring your cheek down to it, follow the trap with the barrel, and fire at the trap.

It takes a little time to reload the thrower, load the shotgun, developing the reflex to drop the thrower so it is one step or motion, but it is inexpensive, you will find that you acclimate to the ritual, you'll be developing your tracking eye and reflexes. Remember, "slow is smooth, and smooth is fast."
It will seem awkward, but your coordination and familiarity with your gun and the sequence will develop and awkwardness will drop away.


AND, this is just you, your shotgun, the trap and the technique. There is no throwing machine, spectators, fixed spot to have to stand in, and simulates walking a field.

You have my best wishes. The start of the skill is working with the tools. (And traps loads are cheaper)
 
All the above are good advice. What chokes are in your shotguns? I think the shotgun you use doesn’t matter as long as you can hit clay pigeons with it and you have confidence in it. Also that it comes up right for you. When you bring it up to your shoulder is the bead on your target. If not practice over and over putting it to your shoulder. A good piece of advice I got on this forum was not to aim for the middle of the bird when he is passing in front of you. One of the guys said a rooster is about half tail, so if you aim for his middle you are going to shoot behind him. I use a Browning semi auto and do well with it. I have confidence in it. I took an over and under out last year for one day and did terrible. I was trying to hurry and not taking my time. When I slowed down, I got the last two birds I shot at. Good luck and keep at it. You will get there.
 
When I first started bird hunting had the same results as your having. Even had a hard time shooting clays. Gun didn't matter, found out I was left eye dominant while shooting right-handed. Went to range switched to left-handed, and started to hit the clays, 50 years later still shooting left-handed and yes the springer spaniel still gives me the stink eye at least twice a day
 

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Wyowalleye said:
All the above are good advice. What chokes are in your shotguns? I think the shotgun you use doesn’t matter as long as you can hit clay pigeons with it and you have confidence in it. Also that it comes up right for you. When you bring it up to your shoulder is the bead on your target. If not practice over and over putting it to your shoulder. A good piece of advice I got on this forum was not to aim for the middle of the bird when he is passing in front of you. One of the guys said a rooster is about half tail, so if you aim for his middle you are going to shoot behind him. I use a Browning semi auto and do well with it. I have confidence in it. I took an over and under out last year for one day and did terrible. I was trying to hurry and not taking my time. When I slowed down, I got the last two birds I shot at. Good luck and keep at it. You will get there.
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I usually use modified and improved modified with lead. If birds are getting up further out I use improved modified and full. If I'm required to use lead I use improved cylinder and modified. Is that not restricted enough? I heard you can use steel in Carlson choke tubes up too full. Would that help? I heard that Scott carlson says you should pattern your shotgun so I'm going to try that and see if it helps. Thanks!
 
I usually use modified and improved modified with lead. If birds are getting up further out I use improved modified and full. If I'm required to use lead I use improved cylinder and modified. Is that not restricted enough? I heard you can use steel in Carlson choke tubes up too full. Would that help? I heard that Scott carlson says you should pattern your shotgun so I'm going to try that and see if it helps. Thanks!

At your stage of introduction to the sport, you don't need to buy things (as much as we all try. :) )
Work on muscle memory and good habits, sometimes even without shells in the gun and trap in the air.

Your brain and body want to help you, just give them patterns to follow so your skills will develop.

Best Wishes.





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You’re overchoked, IMO. I shoot IC from beginning to end (January), shoot well north of 100 birds using #5 lead, or, #3 steel, or #4 bismuth. By far mostly with lead. LOTS of shots past 40 yards…lots. When shooting one of my doubles, it’s usually Skt1/Skt2 (a bit more open than IC/a bit tighter than IC). I’ve shot the same # of birds every year for 28, 29 years…some years more. I sometimes shoot #4 lead from one of my 16 gauge doubles because I don’t like #6 lead. 3000+ birds is a decent sample size. For many of those years, I was actually shooting a skeet tube all season long from my benelli montefeltro. Went to IC when I switched to the benelli ultralight.
 
Steel patterns tighter, IC would be my choice, or, IC/Mod at most from a double…pattern if you’re curious. My go-to load is 2 3/4” #5 lead, 1 1/4 oz, 1200 fps…save your $ for gas and food and lodging…they kill just fine. Gretzky skated to where the puck was going to be…shoot to where the bird is going to be. Or, pick the white ring or it’s beak…
 
BigRand said:
Could be a choke tube issue, depending on what you are using.
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This was my first thought too.

I would not ever use a full choke for a flying bird. A full choke is for turkeys on the ground.

If you are knocking tail feathers off you are shooting behind the bird. Increase the lead and follow through. Leave the dog at home if its useless. No dog is better than a poorly trained one.
 
I had shooting struggles too. They've gotten a lot better. Shoot an open choke, like improved cylinder. Screw it in and then forget about it. Most targets are missed due to a poor mount or lack on concentration on visual contact with the bird. Pheasants don't usually take much lead, compared to pass shooting ducks, doves, or shooting clays. I know me personally I've missed way more birds in front than behind. Straightaways you kinda rifle shoot. Most other shots are shallow quartering angles, stare at the white ring on his neck, or aim at the left or right wing depending on the angle they're taking. Here's a great podcast on the subject. Andy Duffy is one of the best.

birdshotpodcast.com

#222 | Shooting Shotguns with Andy Duffy - Birdshot Podcast

Hall of fame clay target shooter, Andy Duffy, returns to the show to discuss more shooting fundamentals, clays versus birds and much more.
birdshotpodcast.com birdshotpodcast.com
 
I agree with the chokes, open-up! I am assuming you are both shooting 12 gauge, don't try the sub-gauges until you become proficient shooters. Also, maybe you can try a bit heavier payload, maybe an ounce and 3 eights or ounce and a half loads, (heavy payload with an open choke is like a cluster bomb) until you get better shooting. You mentioned patterning the gun...absolutely! Maybe no so much for the pattern density, but to make sure the pattern is where the gun is pointed. Do some shooting and pay attention that you are getting the view down the rib and the front bead picture correct when you are pulling the trigger. If you still are struggling, maybe you are stopping in the swing when you pull the trigger. If so, try to remember to keep swing through the shot or get out in front further (increase the lead) until you are connecting. I wouldn't buy a new gun, just figure out how to shoot the one you have and stick with it. I am a semi-auto shooter. Good luck.
 
remy3424 said:
I agree with the chokes, open-up! I am assuming you are both shooting 12 gauge, don't try the sub-gauges until you become proficient shooters. Also, maybe you can try a bit heavier payload, maybe an ounce and 3 eights or ounce and a half loads, (heavy payload with an open choke is like a cluster bomb) until you get better shooting. You mentioned patterning the gun...absolutely! Maybe no so much for the pattern density, but to make sure the pattern is where the gun is pointed. Do some shooting and pay attention that you are getting the view down the rib and the front bead picture correct when you are pulling the trigger. If you still are struggling, maybe you are stopping in the swing when you pull the trigger. If so, try to remember to keep swing through the shot or get out in front further (increase the lead) until you are connecting. I wouldn't buy a new gun, just figure out how to shoot the one you have and stick with it. I am a semi-auto shooter. Good luck.
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I would be careful with this strategy. I went that route when trying to improve my shooting and if you get too much recoil, then you start flinching and that messes up everything. Not to mention when you do miss, it hurts mentally even more since it should be "easy" with your ammo. But yeah don't try running a 28 gauge and expect it to be easy.
 
What size steel were you using? I would use nothing smaller than #3. I believe 2’s are better. I dont use steel unless I left my hevi-shot at home. In my o/u I use cyl or even a spreader tube in the first barrel & mod or even im in the second. I dont usually have to use the second barrel. I shoot for the red eye patch if I can see it. If that bird makes eye contact with me, I will smash it! Do you maybe need glasses?
 
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