Dewey's Pheasant Lead Spreadsheet

swellcat

swellcat

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Where did you find this?

Is this data calculated for a true 90 degree crossing shot?

One of the problems when explaining lead in terms of feet is that very rarely do they mean the same for everyone. Let me explain. If I tell someone you need 3 ft of lead to kill that bird, what he perceives as 3ft might be completely different than what I see it as. I'ts fine as a starting point, but nothing like practicing shooting targets at different distances at the gun club to give you that sight picture in your mind of what correct lead feels like.
 
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Just a reminder to everyone looking at this. The lead would be the distance in front of the target. If the shotgun shot a single pellet, that pellet would have to be shot outfront of the bird by the lead distance to intercept the bird. There would be an additional lead needed to compensate for reaction time, how well the shooter maintains his barrell swing, the shot slowing down, and the shot string.
 
birdshooter said:
Where did you find this?

Is this data calculated for a true 90 degree crossing shot?
Click to expand...

This is something I did one evening playing with an Excel spreadsheet on the computer. I sent it to Swellcat and he fiqured out how to post it. The numbers are based on constants. Therefore, the bird would be flying at the same speed & distance when the shot was fired and when the shot intercepted the bird.

A 90 degree passing shot would be the closest situation to maintain these constants.

Also, see my post just before this for additional consideratons. I wouldn't use the leads posted as an exact lead out in the field because of the variables I mention. My purpose was just to give a prospective that a bird can cover a lot of ground in the split second that the shot is moving through the air.
 
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Dewey said:
My purpose was just to give a prospective that a bird can cover a lot of ground in the split second that the shot is moving through the air.
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Understood.

I competed in sporting clays for many years and in the beginning the thing that helped me the most with learning how to apply lead was the infamous "skeet field". Shooting from all the stations you will be exposed to everything from going away to full on crossers and everything in between. Granted a clay target is traveling at a slightly faster speed than a pheasant at the get go, but it really doesn't matter as you base your gun speed as you mount and swing, to your targets speed. As you mentioned stopping or slowing the gun will kill any lead and common amongst novices. This is where the skeet field will teach you follow through. Anyone having trouble with leads I highly recommend seeking out a skeet field and or an experienced shooter to help you and put in some time with it.

One note: if you looking to improve your wingshooting skills use a low gun starting position.
 
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Dewey, do you have any shooting suggestions with the high flying birds directly overhead where the bird is in his glid maneuver and is flying mach 5. I find you have to lead those things a mile and it's hard because your going to fall backwards if you don't get that bird right away before it reaches you. Those shots are my achilles heal. I'll hit them, but my percentage's are lower than other types shots.
 
webguy said:
Dewey, do you have any shooting suggestions with the high flying birds directly overhead where the bird is in his grind maneuver and is flying mach 5. I find you have to lead those things a mile and it's hard because your going to fall backwards if you don't get that bird right away before it reaches you. Those shots are my achilles heal. I'll hit them, but my percentage's are lower than other types shots.
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I know you posted this for Dewey, but I will give you what I would do depending on the shot.


If the bird is high and a direct incoming shot and is going to pass directly overhead, I would start the gun from under or behind the bird and pull the trigger as I pass through it. As soon as the barrel blots out the bird pull the trigger. The time it takes for your brain to tell your finger to pull, the correct lead will already be achieved. this is call the swing through technique.

The other thing you could do is let the bird pass overhead and take it as a going away target if that is more to your liking. Same thing, start with the gun behind or above the bird in this case and pull the trigger as you pass through it.

A very high shot (40 yards plus) I would probably mount the gun on the bird matching bird and barrel speed, then pull away to the lead. As always slowing the barrel kills any lead, so follow through is imperative. Unfortunately how far to pull away is something your going to have to experiment with.
 
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I have to agree with Birdshooter on the overhead shot. A swing-through method helps your barrel to keep moving.

The problem with the sustained lead method is the tendency to slow or stop the barrel when the shot is taken. You end up shooting behind it so the next time you put more lead on the bird and the barrel moves even slower. You finally end up with the country mile lead to occasionally drop the bird.

I first tried the swing through method while pass shooting ducks years ago. I was only hitting an occasional duck with the sustained lead method so I thought I'd try the swing-through method. A lone duck came screamin' by overhead. I pulled up behind it, continued through the bird and pulled the trigger. The duck came crashing down in the water. I became a believer right there.
 
The only problem I have with the swing through method is that of longish targets. I find I almost have to delay pulling the trigger momentarily as I pass through because of the longer distance. I find on longer shots the "pull away" is my go to method and one that has worked very well for myself. The concept is to mount on the bird or slightly ahead matching target speed with the barrel momentarily, then pulling away from the target and firing as you achieve the lead. This still allows you to maintain gun speed as apposed to constant or maintained lead. Different strokes for different folks as I know some people who are very proficent at sustained lead on long targets....;)
 
Interesting response. You've got me thinking now about the last few trips I have made and my frustrations with that type of shot. Well birdshooter, that sounds like a winner. I printed out your response and put the sheet in my shell pouch so I can remember to work on that type of shot. Otherwise I might forget your wisdom.
 
Dewey, I would think that a lot of time at STATION 8 on the skeet field would benefit Webguy and his problem with the high overhead shot. You really don't have time to think, just react..............
 
webguy said:
Otherwise I might forget your wisdom.
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Thanks, dunno If I would call it wisdom or just the school of trial and error. Put many rounds through a Browning over/under to figure out what works for me and what doesn't. No shortcuts unfortunately.
 
20thunderjet said:
Dewey, I would think that a lot of time at STATION 8 on the skeet field would benefit Webguy and his problem with the high overhead shot. You really don't have time to think, just react..............
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:rolleyes: I wish a had a great response to this statement, but I don't have a clue what is thrown at the shooter at STATION 8!!
 
Station 8 is a shooting station located directly between the high and low house. At this station the shooter is presented with a high angling incomer from the high house then he turns and is presented with a low angling incomer from the low house. If you can shoot a round some day when it's not crowded they will usually let you stand where ever you want and shoot the targets from places other than the marked stations. In fact Station 7 high house may be a better choice to learn incomers as you have much more time to acquire the target.

If your not familiar with a skeet layout this may help: http://www.constructionwork.com/res...p_field_layout_with_shotfall_danger_zone.html
 
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