A thought on shooting technique

Twenty-five-ish years ago, in my early twenties, I went to a sporting clays course for the first time. I waited around until a group of guys who looked like they knew what they were doing showed up. I asked to tag along, and they let me shoot with them. Turns out, one of the gentlemen in the group owned the place, and everyone in that group could really shoot well. I shot with those guys for two summers, and man, was I ever a deadly shot on game back then! Not long after that, bird numbers dropped, and I spent a couple decades doing nothing but bowhunting. Two years ago was the first time I got serious about bird hunting since then. To say I shot poorly that first season back, would be a huge understatement! After that season, Dad and I both bought electric clay throwers. I shot several hundred clays last summer, and I shot much better this last season. I still have plenty of room for improvement, but last season was much more fun, especially, I suppose, from the dogs perspective! Anticipating the shot angle can be hard, especially when you run maniacal springers like I do. One thing that I tried to focus on last summer, was swinging the shotgun while mounting it, never taking my eyes off the bird. That sporting clays course is no longer there. I really wish I had one within reasonable driving distance. Here in a few weeks I will break out our clay throwers and start practicing again. I think I have around 2,000 target loads hidden away in the basement. I'd like to shoot all of them before dove season rolls around.
 
AKSkeeter said:
For fast crossing shots, mounting the gun in front of the target gives the perception of a much slower target,
relative to mounting behind the target and catching up (visual speed or relative velocity)

Also one shell in the gun helps a new shooter really focus on the target because there is no
mental rush for a second shot. Shoot, follow through, if miss, think about why.
Click to expand...
Great advice. Want to shoot better? Load fewer shells or hunt with single shot.
 
All this slow down advice is great until one thing happens, you start to ride the bird too long. That’s a recipe for a miss. Most problems I see is hunters don’t get on the bird fast enough as they are raising the gun. As you are raising your shotgun you should be pointing at the bird. The really good ones shot when the gun hits their shoulder. Then it’s a dead bird.
 
2point said:
All this slow down advice is great until one thing happens, you start to ride the bird too long. That’s a recipe for a miss. Most problems I see is hunters don’t get on the bird fast enough as they are raising the gun. As you are raising your shotgun you should be pointing at the bird. The really good ones shot when the gun hits their shoulder. Then it’s a dead bird.
Click to expand...
On crossing shots, mounting the gun so that as it hits the shoulder, the shooter is already well in front of the bird will make the target appear slower compared to trying to catch up to the target. Then it is simply match the gun speed with the target speed. This method is used by most world class skeet shooters.

On going away and quartering shots, there is typically more time than what a new shooter would think. Focusing first on the trajectory (is the target slightly rising, slightly quartering or a true straight-away), focus and follow thru. Don't point, follow thru on that trajectory.

Mounting the gun should first be to a consistent cheek-weld first, then the shoulder.
This works shooting huns in a t-shirt in early September and shooting late season roosters in a thick parka in late December.
A consistent cheek-weld is a consistent sight picture.
Focusing on a consistent cheek-weld also prevents the bad habit of lifting the head from the stock.
Focus on the target, not the shotgun bead. By focusing on the bead, the new shooter tends to aim rather than swing.

Focus and follow thru, focus and follow thru, focus and follow thru.
 
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AKSkeeter said:
On crossing shots, mounting the gun so that as it hits the shoulder, the shooter is already well in front of the bird will make the target appear slower compared to trying to catch up to the target. Then it is simply match the gun speed with the target speed. This method is used by most world class skeet shooters.

On going away and quartering shots, there is typically more time than what a new shooter would think. Focusing first on the trajectory (is the target slightly rising, slightly quartering or a true straight-away), focus and follow thru. Don't point, follow thru on that trajectory.

Mounting the gun should first be to a consistent cheek-weld first, then the shoulder.
This works shooting huns in a t-shirt in early September and shooting late season roosters in a thick parka in late December.
A consistent cheek-weld is a consistent sight picture.
Focusing on a consistent cheek-weld also prevents the bad habit of lifting the head from the stock.
Focus and follow thru, focus and follow thru, focus and follow thru.
Click to expand...
I recently purchased a gun with a cheek piece on it like you see in some German guns. My first thoughts were to get rid of it. Until I shouldered it. I love it now. My face fits perfectly on it and its more comfortable. All you guys are correct of course and have given some great advice. I would only add to A.K.'s advice is that getting your footing is #1. But except for basic gun handling skills, it all goes out the window after a few grouse flushes! Then for me it's mostly a form of snap shooting. You stumble for footing as your yanking the gun through the limbs and briars, just hoping to get it close to your shoulder. You can barely make out images of some fleeting wings. The gun goes off, the bird tumbles and you have no idea how in the hell you pulled that shot off!!
 
AKSkeeter said:
On crossing shots, mounting the gun so that as it hits the shoulder, the shooter is already well in front of the bird will make the target appear slower compared to trying to catch up to the target. Then it is simply match the gun speed with the target speed. This method is used by most world class skeet shooters.

On going away and quartering shots, there is typically more time than what a new shooter would think. Focusing first on the trajectory (is the target slightly rising, slightly quartering or a true straight-away), focus and follow thru. Don't point, follow thru on that trajectory.

Mounting the gun should first be to a consistent cheek-weld first, then the shoulder.
This works shooting huns in a t-shirt in early September and shooting late season roosters in a thick parka in late December.
A consistent cheek-weld is a consistent sight picture.
Focusing on a consistent cheek-weld also prevents the bad habit of lifting the head from the stock.
Focus on the target, not the shotgun bead. By focusing on the bead, the new shooter tends to aim rather than swing.

Focus and follow thru, focus and follow thru, focus and follow thru.
Click to expand...
Great advice.
 
I have found that I need to get on them quick and shoot quick. If I don't lock up and pull the trigger quickly, I find myself aiming and shooting behind on a typical bird presentation of a crossing or quartering away shot.
 
2point said:
All this slow down advice is great until one thing happens, you start to ride the bird too long. That’s a recipe for a miss. Most problems I see is hunters don’t get on the bird fast enough as they are raising the gun. As you are raising your shotgun you should be pointing at the bird. The really good ones shot when the gun hits their shoulder. Then it’s a dead bird.
Click to expand...
In the original post I comment that riding a bird often leads to a miss. So does rushing the shot. I knew a guy once who blackened his bicep because they flushed a giant flock and he emptied the magazine before his gun got to his shoulder. The gun goes where your hands go, your hands go where your eyes go. If you start your mount before you've seen the bird, things have a good chance of going pear-shaped.
 
I enjoy and benefit from reading through these posts. Thanks guys. Probably already said, (what's a short term memory?) but I began to shoot so much better when I narrowed it down to 2 shots. Crossing or quartering. Quartering I shoot at the leading wing tip. Crossing, I either, match the crossing speed if I mount in front or shoot typical "swing through" technique when I have to come from behind the bird. For me, I believe the improvement in shooting was because I eliminated any gray matter. Mike thinks, Mike aims. I am the STUPID in KISS.
Aside from that, being a ruffed grouse hunter has me carrying with the bead at eye level as long as I can. To help keep me in that posture, I often keep telling myself "Don't be surprised" that a rooster will get up. This is ONLY beneficial in cattails or tall blue stem or willows or the random smarty that slips past you or the bird laying flat in short grass to avoid us or the standing corn flush or the one that flushes when you're looking at passing ducks or the ditch flush as you get back to your car ......I'm getting carpal tunnel.
 
This post has given me a lot of food for thought. Last season I shot so poorly that my dog told me he wont hunt with me this season unless I improve :) I bought a Wheelybird launcher so I can put in more time with live fire and hope there is enough $$ left over so I can actually afford to hunt. Thanks for all the insights.
Tom
 
TomU said:
This post has given me a lot of food for thought. Last season I shot so poorly that my dog told me he wont hunt with me this season unless I improve :) I bought a Wheelybird launcher so I can put in more time with live fire and hope there is enough $$ left over so I can actually afford to hunt. Thanks for all the insights.
Tom
Click to expand...
I love my whirlybird. I spiced in a couple of plugs in the cord so I can add a 100' extension cord. Now I can shoot at any angel or range I want. My grandson loves to set up on a hill. Then stand at the bottom with our back to the thrower.
 
birddude said:
I love my whirlybird. I spiced in a couple of plugs in the cord so I can add a 100' extension cord. Now I can shoot at any angel or range I want. My grandson loves to set up on a hill. Then stand at the bottom with our back to the thrower.
Click to expand...
BIrddude,

Mine came with a wireless remote control so you can put it anywhere and trigger it from where you are standing. Crossing, angles, coming at you, etc. Should be interesting (and humbling).

Having the remote in your hand when triggering the thrower may interfere with handling the gun . I like your idea of extending the foot switch cable.

Tom
 
Get a gun you like & that fits. Shoot clays as much as possible. And hunt & hunt & hunt! Put YOURSELF on as many birds as possible. Eventually you won't be flustered by a flush, & you'll be able to calmly concentrate on the pheasant, rather than recovering from surprise. Getting your feet positioned somewhat correctly & gun mounted smoothly & completely (smooth makes it quick) will become second nature. Don't dwell on gun mount, but be aware of it. If it's not complete, you're not ready to pull the trigger. Completing a good gun mount & knowing it, while concentrating on a pheasant's head, takes lots of repetition. But when you're able to really see the rooster's flight as you're positioning/mounting, the lead & shot will almost take care of themselves. Paying very close attention & being ready helps eliminate the surprised/hurried feeling. Expect a flush! Gun in both hands, ALWAYS looking in the direction of your dog. If you're stopped to watch your dog, don't just turn your head to look. Turn your whole body to face him/her. That's where the flush will happen 95% of the time, so take care of basic positioning BEFORE a flush. Reading this, it's pretty clear I don't hunt with a pointer.
 
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