Springer Spaniel Training - Update

[NewmanCA]

I posted a thread earlier about training my Springer Spaniel. I can't work with him everyday right now because of the short days and am working with him 3 days a week. Two year old Springer Spaniel that I am basically starting from scratch. I found several videos that were helpful.

I am using the same commands the pro trainer used with my old dog. Heel to sit and okay to get up and move. On the leash, the dog has been doing very well. He sits when I say heel every time and only comes to me when I release me with the " okay " command. I started with the whistle now. I followed what I found on a Youtube video and on the leash the dog is already responding to the whistle and sitting as soon as I blow the whistle. I have been able to move 20 to 25 feet away from him and have gotten him to stay seated before I release him with the okay.

Off the leash he isn't quite as good. He seems to get distracted and sometimes I have to yell heel two or three times and then he comes up to me and sits. Is this normal?

At this point I am going to keep working with the whistle for several more days on the leash. The goal I want to get to is where he could be a good distance away from me and when I blow the whistle he sits. Any suggestions?

I finally got some bumpers today. I was worried to see how he would react. The first time I threw one he chased it but just walked around it. The second time he picked ut up and brought it right to me and kept it in his mouth. I was relieved. He did retrieve it a few times so I have that to build on.

 

[FCSpringer]

Not sure where that area is at on your profile. But I will be judging in Porterville next month. You could come by and I can introduce you to loads of folks. You could join in the fun and go train with one of the many groups out there. Ken

 

[UplandHntr]

hes coming along... you really need someone to help train

 

[NewmanCA]

Not sure where that area is at on your profile. But I will be judging in Porterville next month. You could come by and I can introduce you to loads of folks. You could join in the fun and go train with one of the many groups out there. Ken

That would be great Thanks. It is a 2.5 hour drive from here. I will try and make it down there if I can.

 

[NewmanCA]

I am continuing to work on the dog sitting. He is great on the leash. Sits on whistle command pretty much every time. Off the leash and away from me he doesn't do so well.

Anyone have any suggestions how should I approach this? Should I add to length to the leash and slowly increase distance? I want him to sit when he hears the whistle regardless of whistle.

 

[ranchodeluxe]

FCSpringer had some good advice regarding this type of basic training, you can find it here on a recent post. Make the dog sit then set his food bowl in front of him. Don't let him move until you give the OK command. You can even do this at a distance. Set the dog, and the bowl down, keep your hand signal visible as you back away, reaffirm the "hup" or sit command as neccessary. Slowly work your way further away from the dog before releasing him. If he moves, take him back to the scene of the crime, set him right where he was before, and start over. Any dog worth training will ultimately respond to your commands simply out of a desire to please you, but a little bribery doesn't hurt, either. It's very important to return the dog to the point where you set him down, don't scold him while letting him come to you, or run off. This is a big part of steadiness training, but also a good safety feature, because if you can set your dog down at any distance, you can keep him safe if something is happening that you don't like. In my case, this fall, it was a huge male mountain lion that I didn't want him tangling with.

 

[NewmanCA]

FCSpringer had some good advice regarding this type of basic training, you can find it here on a recent post. Make the dog sit then set his food bowl in front of him. Don't let him move until you give the OK command. You can even do this at a distance. Set the dog, and the bowl down, keep your hand signal visible as you back away, reaffirm the "hup" or sit command as neccessary. Slowly work your way further away from the dog before releasing him. If he moves, take him back to the scene of the crime, set him right where he was before, and start over. Any dog worth training will ultimately respond to your commands simply out of a desire to please you, but a little bribery doesn't hurt, either. It's very important to return the dog to the point where you set him down, don't scold him while letting him come to you, or run off. This is a big part of steadiness training, but also a good safety feature, because if you can set your dog down at any distance, you can keep him safe if something is happening that you don't like. In my case, this fall, it was a huge male mountain lion that I didn't want him tangling with.

Hi Rancho,

That part of the training is going very well. I have been substantially increasing the distances before I release him.

My issue is trying to get him to sit from a distance. He will sit immediately if he is on the leash or right close to me but from a distance he isn't sitting when I blow the whistle.

 

[ranchodeluxe]

Hi Rancho,

That part of the training is going very well. I have been substantially increasing the distances before I release him.

My issue is trying to get him to sit from a distance. He will sit immediately if he is on the leash or right close to me but from a distance he isn't sitting when I blow the whistle.

What is your reaction to this behavior?

 

[NewmanCA]

What is your reaction to this behavior?

When the dog was fairly close I blew the whistle a couple of times and in a more forceful voice told him to heal and praised him when he finally sat. I only tried a few times then gave up. I was hoping someone on the board could offer some suggestions. He does seem to want to learn so it is just a matter of doing it the right way

 

[ranchodeluxe]

Ok, you must be willing to go to him and make the correction physically. Do this at progressively longer distances. He has to know that not obeying the command is not an option. If you need to use the check cord, that's fine, just start close and slowly work further away. But don't drag the dog, just use the cord to regain control if he is moving away, then go to him and take him to the very spot where you gave the command, if he moves even a step, make the correction. If your verbal commands are disregarded, the dog must be shaken up (you have to know your dog in order to know how forceful you need to be, my new pups feelings are hurt with just a raising of my voice and I have not had to resort to the shakeup yet). Grab him by the loose skin around the neck, look him right in the eyes, gently shake him up while commanding NO, then take him back to the spot and give the sit command in your normal tone of voice. My new pup does the same thing, it's no big deal, baby steps are OK. I know there are lots of books annd videos out there, they are all likely pretty good, but I use the old standard, Kenneth Roebuck's book titled "Gun Dog Training for Spaniels and Retrievers". Simply worded, straight forward, never a mention of an e collar. I've heard others say the book is dated, but no one ever told my dogs, so they are none the wiser. I really suggest getting a copy. Cabela's and Scheels usually stock it.

Oh ya, if you are not incorporating a hand signal with your verbal and whistle commands, do so. I just raise my right hand at the same time I give the command. Hand signals are very powerful to a dog. This becomes more and more important later.

 

[mnaj_springer]

When the dog was fairly close I blew the whistle a couple of times and in a more forceful voice told him to heal and praised him when he finally sat. I only tried a few times then gave up. I was hoping someone on the board could offer some suggestions. He does seem to want to learn so it is just a matter of doing it the right way

Two things:

1. Give the command ONCE and only once, then correct any disobedience.

2. This is for anyone who can explain... Why are you using "heel" for the "sit" command? I mean, I know that theoretically you can use any word for any command but won't that be confusing down the road? Again, anyone can help with this question.

 

[jonnyB]

Am a bit confused about this training regime: is this methodology used when hunting or for field trial use?

Use of a whistle when hunting? Often other hunters do not appreciate hearing a whistle go off...what happens when 2-3 hunters use whistles? Confusion?

Can't recall another hunter (that I have hunted with) insist their dog sit while hunting. Maybe we're missing something...

I'm sure there's going to be lots of responses to this post/response!!

 

[mnaj_springer]

Am a bit confused about this training regime: is this methodology used when hunting or for field trial use?

Use of a whistle when hunting? Often other hunters do not appreciate hearing a whistle go off...what happens when 2-3 hunters use whistles? Confusion?

Can't recall another hunter (that I have hunted with) insist their dog sit while hunting. Maybe we're missing something...

I'm sure there's going to be lots of responses to this post/response!!

I use a whistle while hunting. Granted I use it as little as possible, but if I have to communicate with my dog, my acme 211 is less alarming to birds than a human voice.

 

[ranchodeluxe]

Am a bit confused about this training regime: is this methodology used when hunting or for field trial use?

Use of a whistle when hunting? Often other hunters do not appreciate hearing a whistle go off...what happens when 2-3 hunters use whistles? Confusion?

Can't recall another hunter (that I have hunted with) insist their dog sit while hunting. Maybe we're missing something...

I'm sure there's going to be lots of responses to this post/response!!

Yep, your missing something.

 

[NewmanCA]

Two things:

1. Give the command ONCE and only once, then correct any disobedience.

2. This is for anyone who can explain... Why are you using "heel" for the "sit" command? I mean, I know that theoretically you can use any word for any command but won't that be confusing down the road? Again, anyone can help with this question.

My other dog was trained using Heel as sit. I like doing it the same way, no other reason

 

[NewmanCA]

Am a bit confused about this training regime: is this methodology used when hunting or for field trial use?

Use of a whistle when hunting? Often other hunters do not appreciate hearing a whistle go off...what happens when 2-3 hunters use whistles? Confusion?

Can't recall another hunter (that I have hunted with) insist their dog sit while hunting. Maybe we're missing something...

I'm sure there's going to be lots of responses to this post/response!!

Hunting. I am usually never within that close of other hunters for my whistle to be a concern of others. The pheasants are big time runners and I would use the whistle to get my lab to sit and let me catch as it would track pheasants out of range if I would let it. Others have used whistles hunting where I've gone pheasant. While not many, I've seen others do it.

 

[NewmanCA]

Ok, you must be willing to go to him and make the correction physically. Do this at progressively longer distances. He has to know that not obeying the command is not an option. If you need to use the check cord, that's fine, just start close and slowly work further away. But don't drag the dog, just use the cord to regain control if he is moving away, then go to him and take him to the very spot where you gave the command, if he moves even a step, make the correction. If your verbal commands are disregarded, the dog must be shaken up (you have to know your dog in order to know how forceful you need to be, my new pups feelings are hurt with just a raising of my voice and I have not had to resort to the shakeup yet). Grab him by the loose skin around the neck, look him right in the eyes, gently shake him up while commanding NO, then take him back to the spot and give the sit command in your normal tone of voice. My new pup does the same thing, it's no big deal, baby steps are OK. I know there are lots of books annd videos out there, they are all likely pretty good, but I use the old standard, Kenneth Roebuck's book titled "Gun Dog Training for Spaniels and Retrievers". Simply worded, straight forward, never a mention of an e collar. I've heard others say the book is dated, but no one ever told my dogs, so they are none the wiser. I really suggest getting a copy. Cabela's and Scheels usually stock it.

Oh ya, if you are not incorporating a hand signal with your verbal and whistle commands, do so. I just raise my right hand at the same time I give the command. Hand signals are very powerful to a dog. This becomes more and more important later.

Thanks Rancho

 

[Kismet]

Note:

When you get your training book for your dog, make SURE the dog reads the whole thing! I can't tell you how many times I had to make Mick go over parts that he should have down after I gave him the book.

And eventually, he devoured the material.

Best wishes.

 

[NewmanCA]

Note:

When you get your training book for your dog, make SURE the dog reads the whole thing! I can't tell you how many times I had to make Mick go over parts that he should have down after I gave him the book.

And eventually, he devoured the material.

Best wishes.

LOL, I'll make sure he reads to cover to cover

 

[Peter M]

Hawcroft Gundogs/Simon Tyers training Video

NewmanCA

First time post for me.. Your are getting great advice. I strongly encourage you to buy the Hawcroft Gundogs Cocker Spaniel training series 4 disc collection ( no affiliation ). The same principals apply for the springer as do cockers. As noted get the Hup book and another good read is the New Complete English Springer Spaniel 4 th edition. Author Gasow , Edward K Roggenkamp 111. I have a 13.5 year old springer retired and a new almost 7 month old spaniel.
Be patient , persistent and Good Luck !

Pete
NE, Pa.