Question on e-collar and wounds on a dogs neck

[Bob Peters]

The dog went hunting roughly 30 days this season but otherwise rarely if ever wears an e-collar. I noticed two months into the season the dog had scabs on her neck roughly where the prongs would contact her(the shockers). On subsequent hunts I made sure to place the collar in a different position. I noticed on monday night at the motel she had another raw/bloody spot right where the collar prong may have been. I always make sure when I put the collar on her that I can fit a finger under the collar and that it is not too tight. I rarely have to zap her, maybe 5 times all season, mainly I just use the tone. Has anyone else ever run into this? It is the basic sportdog e-collar. She is a golden retriever. The only other thing I can think is cattails or some sticks jabbed her right there.

 

[dakotasj]

I've had the same problem. I think it helps prevent this if my dogs wear the collars often when I do training/ stamina training in the Summer. Typically they will run 1-2 hours a day with the collars on and that seems to toughen the neck area. I do think they can be too tight. Like yours mine almost always respond to a tone. My collars have a couple different length prongs, might try shorter ones. Hope that helps.

 

[Uplandhunter67]

I’ve had that problem as well with my Springer. I’ve noticed it seems to happen when he is wet. I’m assuming the charge is burning the skin when there is moisture involved. I try and use vibrate as much as possible but occasionally he need a gentle reminder.

 

[BrownDogsCan2]

The collar needs to be tighter. When you put it on ,the receiver needs to be up high on the neck below the chin and the buckle at the base of the head below the dogs ear. If you put the collar on down low on the shoulders you’re putting it on the thickest part of the neck and when he runs it bounces and spins

 

[Labs]

These raw spots are known as hot spots and are commonly caused by the collar not being tight enough to hold the prongs in place. The receiver should be high on the neck just behind the jaw, tight enough to just slip a finger under, and the prongs should actually make contact with the dog's skin, not just ride on top of the dog's coat. Alternate the location of the of the receiver from the left to right side on the dogs neck every hunt. If you do these things, you will rarely see hot spots.

If the dog gets hot spots from the prongs rubbing, I apply a balm called Calm Coat on them. This is actually for hot spots on horses (they get them from tack rubbing on them during riding) and can be bought at most any place that sells equine supplies...

 

[Gatzby]

Collar is to loose. Keep it up close to the head and snug down so only a couple fingers fit under. If you go lower on the neck the collar will move up and loosen.
I should have read the comments first BrownDog said the same thing

 

[mgorvi]

Shortest prongs that work and tighter. Leave it off until you hunt your first spot, and take it off for the ride back. Mark the correct hole on the collar with fingernail polish so you’re not guessing all the time.

 

[BritChaser]

The contact points should be rounded, not sharp points.

 

[BrownDogsCan2]

I’ve watch my uncle put on collars one thing I’ve noticed is he’ll work , tug all the folds of loose skin down and out from under the collar and then tighten it up another hole. I think it from years of running coon dogs. I think if I had problem I’d look at that also.