O/U Oil And Grease

Munster927

Munster927

Well-known member
Picked up my first O/U last night and in reading through the manual it stated for the oil finished stocks to use Danish oil or Tung oil and not to use any gun oil on the wood. This gun is the first oil finished stock I've ever owned so curious how those of you with oil finished stocks clean up your stock. I watched a video from Cesar Guerini explaining to use a drop of boiled linseed oil on your finger to oil the stock and then to wax the wood after it's dried for a day or 2.

Also, being my first O/U, the manual recommended to put a light film of grease and not oil on the hinge pins and any other places for the action that have metal to metal contact. Curious what grease those of you with O/U's use or if you just use gun oil on the hinges.

As an aside, man brand new O/U's sure are stiff right out of the box haha
 
Strip all factory lubes. Shoot 4 or 6 hundred rounds through it dry. Tear it back down, you'll see the wear marks. Good 90 wt. or gun grease those areas and hinge pins. It should loosen up.
 
Munster927 said:
Picked up my first O/U last night and in reading through the manual it stated for the oil finished stocks to use Danish oil or Tung oil and not to use any gun oil on the wood. This gun is the first oil finished stock I've ever owned so curious how those of you with oil finished stocks clean up your stock. I watched a video from Cesar Guerini explaining to use a drop of boiled linseed oil on your finger to oil the stock and then to wax the wood after it's dried for a day or 2.

Also, being my first O/U, the manual recommended to put a light film of grease and not oil on the hinge pins and any other places for the action that have metal to metal contact. Curious what grease those of you with O/U's use or if you just use gun oil on the hinges.

As an aside, man brand new O/U's sure are stiff right out of the box haha
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Use a NEW silicone oil cloth to wipe down the stock after hunting, with danish oil the first couple times until it gets on the rag. yes avoid gun oil. Also avoid over oiling, you will not have to apply oil but once or twice a year if it starts to look dull or light in color.

Grease the hinge, but i run them dry for 2 cases of trap shells so they "break in" quicker. Up to you if you want to do this. As soon as it starts to feel easier to open is when i start the grease. I grease for trap shooting and for dove season, i leave the gun dry for upland season. If you grease and go out in the field, you will need to wipe off the grease and reapply every trip which is a pain. If you get grit (sand, dirt, dust) in the grease it will act as valve grinding compound and go to work way faster than running it dry.. you dont want this. I run dry in the field and just blow out the gun with compressed air and then wipe with a rag when i put it back in the safe. Again, make up your own mind on this.

It should be stiff, yet smooth. If its grabby as you break it open there may be a bur or something in there that you need to have looked at.
 
KEOutdoors said:
It should be stiff, yet smooth. If its grabby as you break it open there may be a bur or something in there that you need to have looked at.
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Thanks for the info. And yeah it's smooth, just stiff. Doesn't feel like it's catching on anything, just needs to be broken in I'm sure. I've only opened and closed it a handful of times. I'll shoot it for the first time next weekend so should get a few boxes of shells through it.
 
I always put a light film of high quality grease on the hinge or truncheons, whichever you have AND on the rounded part of the receiver where it mates with the forearm. I’ve seen more than one Browning Citori gauld in that area during high volume shooting!
 
Munster927 said:
Picked up my first O/U last night and in reading through the manual it stated for the oil finished stocks to use Danish oil or Tung oil and not to use any gun oil on the wood. This gun is the first oil finished stock I've ever owned so curious how those of you with oil finished stocks clean up your stock. I watched a video from Cesar Guerini explaining to use a drop of boiled linseed oil on your finger to oil the stock and then to wax the wood after it's dried for a day or 2.

Also, being my first O/U, the manual recommended to put a light film of grease and not oil on the hinge pins and any other places for the action that have metal to metal contact. Curious what grease those of you with O/U's use or if you just use gun oil on the hinges.

As an aside, man brand new O/U's sure are stiff right out of the box haha
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Congrats on the new gun. What did you get? My son bought a Beretta 686 last year and the "oil finish" on it was terrible. It was really thin and formed white spotting when exposed to moisture. I quickly redid it with a few coats of Pro-Custom Oil.

I would never put anything with silicone on an oil finished gun stock. I very tiny finger dip of BLO would work. I don't like it because it takes so long to sure. I have used Pro-Custom Oil for years and am super happy with initial finish and refresh results. Tru Oil is another option, but caution with gloss. Lin-Speed is a good finish if you want to get a bottle of it to use and keep handy.

As for the grease question... yes. On my old London double I just use a Q-Tip to apply a dab of petroleum jelly every now and then. This was a suggestion straight from a well-known English gun writer and acquaintance. For my other doubles (SxS and O/U), I will use a gun grease with a high concentration of Moly.

Enjoy!
 
You're definitely gonna want to grease the hinge pin, the forearm where it meets the action, baisically any friction area with metal on metal. I really like this grease called superlube, mainly because it's clear, it doesn't have any smell, and it is not sticky. I keep my gun greased always. The nice thing is you bought your gun at a good time, since you have the whole offseason to shoot clays and break it it. It'll loosen up pretty quick. For the wood I wouldn't worry too much about it right now. You'll want a bottle of this stuff eventually

Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish & Conditioner | Howard Products

Antique restoration and fine furniture care products. Full line of the highest quality polishes, waxes, and restorers available. "Restore It - Don't Strip It!" Since 1969
www.howardproducts.com www.howardproducts.com
This product has the consistency of a paste and can be rubbed on the wood and then later wiped off with a clean rag. This is a widely accepted product from lots of longtime collectors and gunsmiths. I would put on a thin coat right before season. If you ever get in some rain or the wood gets wet then after it's all dried out might be time to give it some wax. Some people say avoid waxing the checkering, but if you get some in there not a big deal just wipe it off, and also a soft toothbrush is good for brushing debris and wax out of checkered wood.
 
Bob Peters said:
www.harborfreight.com

3 Oz Synthetic Grease

Amazing deals on this 3Oz Synthetic Grease at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

Really any grease works so don't worry too much about the brand. Superlube is cheap and easy to work with.
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Yeah I cleaned it up yesterday and oiled it and greased the hinge pins and what not with some white lithium grease I had. I'll probably pick up something clear for next time. Didn't like all the white haze it left after it dried haha it'd work fine, but I'll get something clear. Just wanted to grease it a bit and had the white lithium handy.
 
LC Smith said:
Congrats on the new gun. What did you get? My son bought a Beretta 686 last year and the "oil finish" on it was terrible. It was really thin and formed white spotting when exposed to moisture. I quickly redid it with a few coats of Pro-Custom Oil.
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I picked up a Browning Citori 725 Feather in 20 gauge. Id been eyeing adding a Citori to my collection for awhile now and after getting a chance to put my hands on one at Pheasant Fest a few weeks ago, I just had to have it haha

Timing and $$ wise I think I did pretty good. Reeds in Walker MN had one on sale for $200 less than anywhere else, but they're almost 5 hours from me. So I stopped at my local Scheels and asked if they'd price match, which they said they would so I asked them to order me one. I also traded in an old beat up Mossberg pump turkey gun that I haven't used in 10+ years that they gave me $225, I paid $350 for it about 15 years ago haha the day before I picked the gun up I got an email from Browning advertising an 8% rebate on any new gun, so that'll put another $200 in my pocket. Then as I'm checking out they asked if I had a Scheels card, which I don't, so the guy said well if you get one now you'll get $100 off your purchase. So overall I think it worked out pretty good haha
 
Munster927 said:
I picked up a Browning Citori 725 Feather in 20 gauge. Id been eyeing adding a Citori to my collection for awhile now and after getting a chance to put my hands on one at Pheasant Fest a few weeks ago, I just had to have it haha

Timing and $$ wise I think I did pretty good. Reeds in Walker MN had one on sale for $200 less than anywhere else, but they're almost 5 hours from me. So I stopped at my local Scheels and asked if they'd price match, which they said they would so I asked them to order me one. I also traded in an old beat up Mossberg pump turkey gun that I haven't used in 10+ years that they gave me $225, I paid $350 for it about 15 years ago haha the day before I picked the gun up I got an email from Browning advertising an 8% rebate on any new gun, so that'll put another $200 in my pocket. Then as I'm checking out they asked if I had a Scheels card, which I don't, so the guy said well if you get one now you'll get $100 off your purchase. So overall I think it worked out pretty good haha
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It sounds like you did okay with that one!
 
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