Ithaca

Goosemaster

Well-known member
I just bought a 1905 Ithaca. The safety has three positions. I'm wondering about that. I fired it and it works fine. Cool gun, not sure on the chokes.
 
I just bought a 1905 Ithaca. The safety has three positions. I'm wondering about that. I fired it and it works fine. Cool gun, not sure on the chokes.
Not sure about the safety. Would that be the first hammerless called the Crass? What gauge? I think the most common barrels were 28" mod and full. They were very good guns.
 
Not sure about the safety. Would that be the first hammerless called the Crass? What gauge? I think the most common barrels were 28" mod and full. They were very good guns.
It's a 12 gauge, 30-in. Steel barrel. Lewis model Ithaca. Field grade, in excellent condition, fire is perfectly with 1 oz low brass. Don't know. Beautiful wood. Don't know what chokes. I would like to fire 2 and 3/4 high brass one and a quarter rounds. I might be able to get away with that. I'm pretty sure it is a 3-in gun. Double trigger.
 
I'm not an expert but think that the Lewis was the 2nd model. And I'm betting it's not a 3'' chamber. Probably a early duck gun, full and full, maybe mod and full. It would probably handle heavy loads but I wouldn't shoot a lot through it. I'd talk to an expert first. Somebody that knows more than me will probably chime in. All the experts must be in church!
 
One position will allow gun to fire and not automatically switch back to safe after opening. One position is safe. One position should allow gun to fire then switch back to safe after gun opened. That’s how these usually work.
 
Use snap caps and try each position to verify.
 
I just bought a 1905 Ithaca. The safety has three positions. I'm wondering about that. I fired it and it works fine. Cool gun, not sure on the chokes.

I'm not an expert but think that the Lewis was the 2nd model. And I'm betting it's not a 3'' chamber. Probably a early duck gun, full and full, maybe mod and full. It would probably handle heavy loads but I wouldn't shoot a lot through it. I'd talk to an expert first. Somebody that knows more than me will probably chime in. All the experts must be in church!
Yes, early duck gun,not 3 inch. I was advised to not shoot high brass loads, but I did shoot 1 oz low brass trap loads through it.
 
Use snap caps and try each position to verify.
So that's a very hard thing to determine even what the assistance
One position will allow gun to fire and not automatically switch back to safe after opening. One position is safe. One position should allow gun to fire then switch back to safe after gun opened. That’s how these usually work.
I get it. Thanks,I'll try it.
 
a dime will fall into the barrel,so I don't know chokes.
 

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Always heard the low vs high brass topic. I don’t see how this affects chamber pressures. I thought high brass comes from paper shells and just a hold over. Also RST and B&P make loads for older sweeter guns. I shoot them thru my 1905 Fox
 
Always heard the low vs high brass topic. I don’t see how this affects chamber pressures. I thought high brass comes from paper shells and just a hold over. Also RST and B&P make loads for older sweeter guns. I shoot them thru my 1905 Fox
It seemed to handle 1 oz. loads fine.maybe I'll try a 11/4.
 
It seemed to handle 1 oz. loads fine.maybe I'll try a 11/4.
Goose, it is a great looking gun. In my experience, when dealing with guns of this vintage, it is not really the metal I worry about regarding loads and pressures, but the headstock. All of my vintage guns have been sidelocks (LC Smith or English) and I don't want massive pressure spikes into the wood. The frames and barrels are solid and robust, I don't have real concerns there. In my guns I primarily shoot RST 1oa loads of #6 shot loads for pheasant and chukar. In my 16ga LC I do shoot 1oz or 1 1/8oz loads without issue or concern. It is by far the newest gun (1944) and handles them well. With yours being a box lock you have a lot of wood there to absorb the recoil forces, and should be less likely to have issues.

I sure as hell would not cut those barrels! There is nothing better than the swing of 30" tubes, on a SxS, with a pheasant crossing shot!
 

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Goose, it is a great looking gun. In my experience, when dealing with guns of this vintage, it is not really the metal I worry about regarding loads and pressures, but the headstock. All of my vintage guns have been sidelocks (LC Smith or English) and I don't want massive pressure spikes into the wood. The frames and barrels are solid and robust, I don't have real concerns there. In my guns I primarily shoot RST 1oa loads of #6 shot loads for pheasant and chukar. In my 16ga LC I do shoot 1oz or 1 1/8oz loads without issue or concern. It is by far the newest gun (1944) and handles them well. With yours being a box lock you have a lot of wood there to absorb the recoil forces, and should be less likely to have issues.

I sure as hell would not cut those barrels! There is nothing better than the swing of 30" tubes, on a SxS, with a pheasant crossing shot!
I don't want to mess up the balance of the gun, because it does seem to balance out real well. This fall, I'll probably take it out and give it a try.
 
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