Help with 5 month old lab encouraging retrieving

R

Remy_YellowLab

New member
It’s been 13 years for me since I trained a dog. I have a 5 month old lab and I’m running into frustrations that I have to remind myself he’s still a puppy. I don’t have a goal of my dog being a field trials dog or anything, I just want obedience, well-mannered, and to be able to hunt with me. He’s my buddy more than anything just like my last lab. My last lab was started on ducks and was addicted to them after his first season. Life changed after a few years and moved to Colorado and got him into pheasants when he was 6 and it was like he taught himself. It was a blast.

I now have a 5 month old lab that I’m working with and he’s just as playful as ever. Chases cotton wood fluff and is easily distracted. I know I need to limit distractions in training before adding them in. My Fiance has a 9 year old female red healer, that I’m not sure is creating problems in training and how to remedy them. Pip (the healer) resource guards toys and bones and snaps at him or takes things away from him. They both play together really hard, but sometimes she’s not into it and just wants to collect all the toys and bones. When you throw a ball when she’s around she beats him to it and snaps at him. He still likes to instigate though and loves her. I want them to still get along and play because otherwise he’d probably drive us nuts if she wasn’t entertaining him for a while in the evening.

Which brings me to a recent issue. About a month or so ago I was working on retrieving with him and he was relying on instinct and bringing it back. Seemed like it wasn’t going to be hard to work on etiquette, commands, and such. Then, last week he’s turned it into a game when I throw bumper for him. The first throw is keep away and energy burn off. The second throw, he might bring it near me but not to me. Then it’s either a mix of dropping it on the way back, laying down and chewing it, or distraction and onto something else. I’m trying to build excitement and lots of praise to get him back to a basic level of retrieving so I can then start working further off of that but I’m having trouble getting him to bring the bumper back to me. He’s so different than my last lab. My last one was independent, liked people, and couldn’t care less about other dogs. Archie on the other hand is shy around new people, loves dogs, and is quite affectionate.

Any suggestions on getting back on track. I recently put all the dog toys away (Pip has always had toys out for her)? Maybe I just haven’t spent enough 1-on-1 time with him to make the bond more heavy on me than Pip? I have to work a lot and my Fiance is home with both dogs all day.

I’m also hoping to introduce him to shotguns real soon.

Thank you!
 
I'm far from a trainer. But check cord so he can't play keep away is a must. Also keep the repetitions low so it doesn't become work.

I'm also a believer that dogs can easily learn the difference between play and work. So use a bumper for work and enforce the commands, but then also have fun with like a tennis ball and never use commands as it's just the fun stuff.
 
I'm no expert either, but I've always had trouble with two loose pups together. I try to keep my expectations low and keep telling myself, it's a pup dummy. Labs are usually exceptionally smart. Have some patience and work on gunshot exposure and common obedience, a lot of the obedience they will learn from just from being with you. Then add birds. Your pup will either be a natural retriever or not. If you decide he's not, you can force fetch him latter. With all the expert advice, articles, videos, and books I read about dog training when I was young, the most important thing I learned was from looking in the mirror. I had a quick temper and a demand for compliance. I wish I would have chilled out and just had fun earlier.
 
birddude said:
I'm no expert either, but I've always had trouble with two loose pups together. I try to keep my expectations low and keep telling myself, it's a pup dummy. Labs are usually exceptionally smart. Have some patience and work on gunshot exposure and common obedience, a lot of the obedience they will learn from just from being with you. Then add birds. Your pup will either be a natural retriever or not. If you decide he's not, you can force fetch him latter. With all the expert advice, articles, videos, and books I read about dog training when I was young, the most important thing I learned was from looking in the mirror. I had a quick temper and a demand for compliance. I wish I would have chilled out and just had fun earlier.
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Start with obedience training. Sit stay heel. When those are solid start with 2-3 bumpers while on check cord with positive reinforcement on the retrieval. 10 minutes a couple of times a day if you can. Start with an obedience segment then on to a couple of retrieves then put him up while he is eager. Too many bumper and you start having problems.
If you take him to pro they start will start with 2-4 weeks of obedience before throwing bumpers
 
Suggestions:
1) do not have Pip around while TRAINING your dog! They can romp and play at other times.
2) teaching/learning sit, stay, and come are necessary for all additional training.
3) short training sessions once or twice a day. Simple stuff and slowly build as he learns.
4) don't keep repeating poor performance. Make it easier or figure out something different.
Hunt, 2022-12-28 (4).JPGHunt, 2021-1-11 (5).JPG
 
I think someone said it already but don't over do it and always quit with him wanting more. I have a 5 month old DD and three at a time seems good for us. There is nothing wrong with treats either prior to the force fetch if your going that route. Have fun
 
Joe Hunter said:
Suggestions:
1) do not have Pip around while TRAINING your dog! They can romp and play at other times.
2) teaching/learning sit, stay, and come are necessary for all additional training.
3) short training sessions once or twice a day. Simple stuff and slowly build as he learns.
4) don't keep repeating poor performance. Make it easier or figure out something different.
View attachment 5933View attachment 5936
Click to expand...
That second pic looks like it should be on a magazine cover! Best dog Ive ever owned was a blk lab.
 
Look up Bill Hillman on YouTube. He has a website also. You can order DVDs that teach his program step by step. Smartworks by Evan Graham is a good one also…the difference in the two is that Bill Hillman uses a lot less pressure when he trains. The Smartworks program is more of a pressure (with e-collar conditioning) based program. Both programs rely on a strong obedience based foundation. I would not worry about a 5 month old puppy not bringing the bumper back every time…I would definitely force fetch him which will eventually eliminate the issue. Also, he will deliver the bird to hand every time and you will not have to worry about him dropping wounded birds 5 feet in front of you that run off ha! Wait until his adult teeth are all the way in and the sit command is solid before you begin force fetching.

Oh and I would definitely keep him separate from the other dog when you train. Good luck!
 
Train alone, just you and your lab. That helps build teamwork and bonding.

Try to train in a new place. Typically pups are more apt to try to play keep away in their home territory.

Try water retrieves where there will be less of a tendency for him to play keep away.

Don't allow keep away to develop into a habit. Use a check cord so if necessary, you can reel pup in and
not allow him to play keep away.

Also retrieving down a path in a forest where you walk the opposite direction,
sometimes helps condition pup to go straight out and come straight back on each retrieve.
 
AKSkeeter said:
Train alone, just you and your lab. That helps build teamwork and bonding.

Try to train in a new place. Typically pups are more apt to try to play keep away in their home territory.

Try water retrieves where there will be less of a tendency for him to play keep away.

Don't allow keep away to develop into a habit. Use a check cord so if necessary, you can reel pup in and
not allow him to play keep away.

Also retrieving down a path in a forest where you walk the opposite direction,
sometimes helps condition pup to go straight out and come straight back on each retrieve.
Click to expand...
The water suggestion was good. Go out in the water to meet him while he is still swimming where it is hard for him to out maneuver you. Knee deep should be plenty deep
 
A hiking trail in a forest is the similar concept to using a hallway with a puppy to develop a quick return.
Here is an example of a puppy and the same concept using a deck.
 
Remove the older dog from the training setting. If the young one is constantly distracted, remove the distraction.

You might want to consider sending the dog to basic training. I sent mine to a 2 week basic obedience, gun, and bird intro training when she was 5 months old and it did wonders.
 
gimruis said:
Remove the older dog from the training setting. If the young one is constantly distracted, remove the distraction.

You might want to consider sending the dog to basic training. I sent mine to a 2 week basic obedience, gun, and bird intro training when she was 5 months old and it did wonders.
Click to expand...
Cha ching
 
A couple people said it but it’s worth repeating. Be patient, your working with a puppy, keep your expectations there. Your dog is going to read your body language and if you get frustrated your dog will know and will respond to it.

I’d encourage short training sessions mixed with a little fun and a little discipline. And a check cord and short, short retrieves. You can guide your dog back that way.
 
Look up videos by bill Hillman. Puppy videos.

Keep that older dog away from him when you are training.

Get a 7 foot 3/8 inch soft rope with no knot or handle on the end. Just a rope and flat collar.
Watch the Hillman puppy videos.
 
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