A thought on shooting technique

B

Bob Peters

Well-known member
In a different thread there was a new hunter and he said a few times how important it is to get on the bird fast, and next year he's gonna bring a light 20 out so that he can get on the bird real fast. I understand this thinking, but my opinion differs. If you're an experienced hunter, and have a good general carry position and awareness of your surroundings(dog and good cover), you really have more time than you think when a bird flushes. And we've all seen others and done it ourselves when a bird busts out of the cover and so many times the first shell is a miss, and why? Often because we rush. We recover, get our cheek on the stock, eye focused on the bird, and drop him on the 2nd shell. I can remember the farthest shot I made all year, the dog put up a rooster, I moved almost in slow motion as I wasn't sure if I should take the shot, I decided to, pulled the trigger, and stoned him. That isn't the first time I've slowed down and my shooting improved. I will admit that riding out a bird or not being prepared can lead to missed birds and lost opportunities. I think the key is something like a goldilocks solution, not too fast not too slow. These are quotes that might explain better my thoughts on the subject:

"Make haste slowly" Michael McIntosh
"Be quick but don't hurry" John Wooden
"Move at a comfortable pace" Andy Duffy
"slow is smooth, smooth is fast" I think that one originates from the armed forces?

Everyone has different vision and reflexes, so only you can judge what speed you should shoot at. I do know that the more I hunt the better I get at shooting at what for me is a comfortable pace, and this has improved the number of birds in my game bag.
 
Snap shooting I think is more of a problem than delaying your shot. I grew up Ruffed Grouse hunting (and still do) and it really breeds a bad habit in the pheasant fields. Ruffies you really do have to shoot fast as they are in such thick cover. But out in the pheasant fields, compared to the Grouse woods, you have almost an eternity to shoot in comparison.
 
Shooting a shotgun in the field is about foot position and gun mount. Both of which can be practiced in the off season. Shooting a shotgun rule number one is keep your eye on the bird.

Watch enough bird hunting videos on you tube, especially the shotcam slow motion shots, and you will see the gun move to the front of the bird then stop right before the shot is fired. Sometimes they hit the bird in the tail end sometimes they miss behind. The reason the gun stopped? They looked at the barrel to see check the lead.

When the bird flushes, 1) adjust your feet (as practiced) 2) make smooth gun mount (as practiced) 3) move your gun to develop your lead (whatever method that might be) and 4) keep your eyes locked on the front of the bird. If your gun fits relatively well, dead bird. Sounds pretty simple.
 
Munster927 said:
Ruffies you really do have to shoot fast as they are in such thick cover. But out in the pheasant fields, compared to the Grouse woods, you have almost an eternity to shoot in comparison.
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You can say that again. Pheasants are like shooting at slow-motion houses out in the open compared to a ruff. Most of the time when a grouse flushes, I don't even SEE the darn thing, much less get off a reasonable shot.

I mentioned this in a previous thread, but simply having two hands on the shotgun will make a significant improvement in the number of birds you fold.
 
Bob Peters said:
In a different thread there was a new hunter and he said a few times how important it is to get on the bird fast, and next year he's gonna bring a light 20 out so that he can get on the bird real fast. I understand this thinking, but my opinion differs. If you're an experienced hunter, and have a good general carry position and awareness of your surroundings(dog and good cover), you really have more time than you think when a bird flushes. And we've all seen others and done it ourselves when a bird busts out of the cover and so many times the first shell is a miss, and why? Often because we rush. We recover, get our cheek on the stock, eye focused on the bird, and drop him on the 2nd shell. I can remember the farthest shot I made all year, the dog put up a rooster, I moved almost in slow motion as I wasn't sure if I should take the shot, I decided to, pulled the trigger, and stoned him. That isn't the first time I've slowed down and my shooting improved. I will admit that riding out a bird or not being prepared can lead to missed birds and lost opportunities. I think the key is something like a goldilocks solution, not too fast not too slow. These are quotes that might explain better my thoughts on the subject:

"Make haste slowly" Michael McIntosh
"Be quick but don't hurry" John Wooden
"Move at a comfortable pace" Andy Duffy
"slow is smooth, smooth is fast" I think that one originates from the armed forces?

Everyone has different vision and reflexes, so only you can judge what speed you should shoot at. I do know that the more I hunt the better I get at shooting at what for me is a comfortable pace, and this has improved the number of birds in my game bag.
Click to expand...
When I was young my dad always stressed "take your time". It was great advice that has served me well over the years.
 
Go shoot, and then shoot some more. No shortage of starlings. As a youngster I had carte blanche sans Robins and Cardinals. All else was fair game. My partner in crime’s grandfather had a reloading press set up on an office desk in the gun room. I think 5 was the most we reloaded a box of shells in a day. There was a stash of Playboy magazines in a desk drawer. To this day I’ve never seen a better set up.
 
For fast crossing shots, mounting the gun in front of the target gives the perception of a much slower target,
relative to mounting behind the target and catching up (visual speed or relative velocity)

Also one shell in the gun helps a new shooter really focus on the target because there is no
mental rush for a second shot. Shoot, follow through, if miss, think about why.
 
Munster927 said:
Snap shooting I think is more of a problem than delaying your shot. I grew up Ruffed Grouse hunting (and still do) and it really breeds a bad habit in the pheasant fields. Ruffies you really do have to shoot fast as they are in such thick cover. But out in the pheasant fields, compared to the Grouse woods, you have almost an eternity to shoot in comparison.
Click to expand...
It takes me a couple of birds to get back to the pheasant shooting mentality after chasing ruffs and woodcock. I usually start out with either a pump or semi for shell capacity as i know my first two shots will be very quick. For me my shooting birds that flush wild seems to be on a mental clock, meaning pull up on bird swing past and shoot, if I delay it feels different. This could be a result of shooting clay targets for years, I don't know but when i do slow my process down it feels different. Pointed birds I really have to slow it down so I don't destroy the bird at close range, so for me it depends where the bird is at when flushed.
 
Miforester said:
It takes me a couple of birds to get back to the pheasant shooting mentality after chasing ruffs and woodcock. I usually start out with either a pump or semi for shell capacity as i know my first two shots will be very quick. For me my shooting birds that flush wild seems to be on a mental clock, meaning pull up on bird swing past and shoot, if I delay it feels different. This could be a result of shooting clay targets for years, I don't know but when i do slow my process down it feels different. Pointed birds I really have to slow it down so I don't destroy the bird at close range, so for me it depends where the bird is at when flushed.
Click to expand...
If you shoot skeet, a going away shot is like station 1 high or station 7 low, let the target come to the gun and simple insertion.
For quartering shots, like station 2 high or station 6 low, a point ahead and slight swing move.
For crossing shots, like stations 3,4,5 simply mount gun in front of target, match gun speed to target speed, and easy hits.

The nice thing about skeet is the ability to practice on weakness and focus on fundamentals.
For example if crossing shots are weakness, shoot all 25 shots
at stations 3,4,5. If going away shots are weakness, shoot all 25 shots at stations 1 high and 7 low.
 
I honestly believe that I was a better shot before I started to study techniques. I learned how to wing shoot with no instruction whatsoever. Quail being the # 1 quarry. I tried to shoot trap a couple times in high school but failed pretty miserably. Then I tried sporting clays a decade later. Shot a 50 1st time but then became addicted. I worked my way up to the 80-90. In an attempt to improve further I started studying different methods. Sustained lead, pull away, pass through etc. My scores went downhill on the sporting clays course, but my bird shooting was the best I've ever shot. I assume it was because I put too much thought into it on clay and reverted to my instincts shooting birds. The reason I think my bird shooting improved was simply a lot of muscle memory and sight picture. I now realize that when I was on top of my game, I used different methods for different shots without even realizing it. I still love to shoot and have settled on skeet and my whirlybird because I think it is more like actual birds. My main problem now is I shoot to many different guns. I guess that's a good problem!! I've noticed that a certain videographer uses the pull away method. Which is my favorite if I have time. I won't mention any names. I wouldn't want to get anything in their head!!
 
" I now realize that when I was on top of my game, I used different methods for different shots without even realizing it."
So true BD! Hunting different species, along with lots of experience (and failures) also aids in the ability to acquire one target on a multiple bird flush, before moving to a second. I vividly remember the first handful of quail flushes - this is where the "slow it down" mindset really comes into play. Waterfowling exposes one to the different shooting techniques as well. I grew up a snap shooter, but that simply doesn't consistently work on a crossing bird hauling ass! AK - I've had some station 8 shots on waterfowl - never good if you're slightly behind proper lead
" If going away shots are weakness, shoot all 25 shots at stations 1 high and 7 low."
Great advice AK - This is my least favorite shot, so it gets the most attention during our clay shoots. the remainder of my practice is shooting crossers, doubles and triples. Just trying to make sure that third shot isn't wasted.;):ROFLMAO:
 
birddude said:
I honestly believe that I was a better shot before I started to study techniques. I learned how to wing shoot with no instruction whatsoever. Quail being the # 1 quarry. I tried to shoot trap a couple times in high school but failed pretty miserably. Then I tried sporting clays a decade later. Shot a 50 1st time but then became addicted. I worked my way up to the 80-90. In an attempt to improve further I started studying different methods. Sustained lead, pull away, pass through etc. My scores went downhill on the sporting clays course, but my bird shooting was the best I've ever shot. I assume it was because I put too much thought into it on clay and reverted to my instincts shooting birds. The reason I think my bird shooting improved was simply a lot of muscle memory and sight picture. I now realize that when I was on top of my game, I used different methods for different shots without even realizing it. I still love to shoot and have settled on skeet and my whirlybird because I think it is more like actual birds. My main problem now is I shoot to many different guns. I guess that's a good problem!! I've noticed that a certain videographer uses the pull away method. Which is my favorite if I have time. I won't mention any names. I wouldn't want to get anything in their head!!
Click to expand...
Agree… when I’m in a slump the problem is in between my ears.
 
spc524 said:
Shooting a shotgun in the field is about foot position and gun mount. Both of which can be practiced in the off season. Shooting a shotgun rule number one is keep your eye on the bird.

Watch enough bird hunting videos on you tube, especially the shotcam slow motion shots, and you will see the gun move to the front of the bird then stop right before the shot is fired. Sometimes they hit the bird in the tail end sometimes they miss behind. The reason the gun stopped? They looked at the barrel to see check the lead.

When the bird flushes, 1) adjust your feet (as practiced) 2) make smooth gun mount (as practiced) 3) move your gun to develop your lead (whatever method that might be) and 4) keep your eyes locked on the front of the bird. If your gun fits relatively well, dead bird. Sounds pretty simple.
Click to expand...
That's sound advise. And yeah, sounds simple but I still on ocasion find myself looking at the ground, shaking my head thinking. WHY DIDN'T I PLANT MY FEET!:confused:
 
I shoot decoying ducks laying in a jet sled with a heavy parka on.
So foot position and gun fit are moot points in that non-upland application.
For me the key is mounting the shotgun in front of the bird, mounting to the cheek first,
with a firm cheek-weld, match the gun speed to the bird speed, focus on the head not the gun bead, and
maintain that firm cheek-weld with an exaggerated follow-through.

I often take 1 shot and if I miss I will not take that second shot,
instead analyze why the miss occurred.
 
That's one awesome lab AK! Enjoy every moment with him!!
"analyze why the miss occurred". Another great point! Missing happens, so I've learned not to dwell on it. I immediately reflect on what I feel caused the miss, & visualize the successful shot - ready for the next opportunity...
PS - that doesn't look like a "friendly" decoy setting spot:unsure:
 
Quailnerd said:
Agree… when I’m in a slump the problem is in between my ears.
Click to expand...
Personally if I start thinking about it I miss. For me it is very instinc
birddude said:
I honestly believe that I was a better shot before I started to study techniques. I learned how to wing shoot with no instruction whatsoever. Quail being the # 1 quarry. I tried to shoot trap a couple times in high school but failed pretty miserably. Then I tried sporting clays a decade later. Shot a 50 1st time but then became addicted. I worked my way up to the 80-90. In an attempt to improve further I started studying different methods. Sustained lead, pull away, pass through etc. My scores went downhill on the sporting clays course, but my bird shooting was the best I've ever shot. I assume it was because I put too much thought into it on clay and reverted to my instincts shooting birds. The reason I think my bird shooting improved was simply a lot of muscle memory and sight picture. I now realize that when I was on top of my game, I used different methods for different shots without even realizing it. I still love to shoot and have settled on skeet and my whirlybird because I think it is more like actual birds. My main problem now is I shoot to many different guns. I guess that's a good problem!! I've noticed that a certain videographer uses the pull away method. Which is my favorite if I have time. I won't mention any names. I wouldn't want to get anything in their head!!
Click to expand...

Me too. I can just as easily go five for five as I can 0-3. Once I start thinking about it I get in my head a bit. I approach every shot as if I have never missed. I did have a stretch at the end of last year where I went 0-4 I believe in about 2 hrs. It got so bad that I was hoping another bird didn’t get up. I don’t think I have ever gone through that before. It was very weird. They were all very easy shots in calm conditions. The day before I was 3-3 in horrible conditions. Go figure.
 
Munster927 said:
Snap shooting I think is more of a problem than delaying your shot. I grew up Ruffed Grouse hunting (and still do) and it really breeds a bad habit in the pheasant fields. Ruffies you really do have to shoot fast as they are in such thick cover. But out in the pheasant fields, compared to the Grouse woods, you have almost an eternity to shoot in comparison.
Click to expand...
Well said. Every year I Grouse hunt first, then go onto Pheasants.
 
Since I only shoot IC/M 20ga for all upland birds and have for 50 years, my range is 25-30yds. Whether ruffs, Huns, woodcock, quail, chickens or pheasants, it’s a flush, snap shot and retrieve. Watch the dog, be prepared and practice smooth gun mount while hunting. In my teens I would jump six feet when a ruff would flush, expected to die from heart attack more than once. Now I expect a retrieve. The shot is the same for me when upland hunting. Learn to anticipate. Waterfowling is 12ga territory, different ranges and incoming targets, whether decoying or back shoots. Got to love it all.
 
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