Trapping Predators

prairie- there just weren't any beaver arround when I started- interesting- I'd never seen a beaver dam or house- our deer hunting country was the first- 1973-

dad would start at the mouth of the river in this tiny duck boat sort of- never walk on land- waders to get out while tieing the boat to a tree branch- or me holding on- nylon rope and trapping gloves

would run the traps down river, tie the boat under the bridge, go up river when he got home from work-

I learned to not be scared, absolutely quiet, not move- as he'd head off into the dark- trying to watch for the tiny pin point of light as he work along the edge checking- "catch one dad" was the usual whisper -as he'd come back

basement and skin the mink right away- snap it some to remove the water- admire the pelt- then roll it up and into the fridge in a bag
 
Added one more today. Pulled traps again. Have a meeting tomorrow and won't have time to play in the water.
 
Quick question in regards to setting snares for beavers. When the beaver snares itself what holds the snare tight around the beavers neck?

Is there a clip that only slides one way and locks into position or does the animal keep the snare tight enough just from tugging and pulling:confused:

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks you
 
1pheas4 said:
Quick question in regards to setting snares for beavers. When the beaver snares itself what holds the snare tight around the beavers neck?

Is there a clip that only slides one way and locks into position or does the animal keep the snare tight enough just from tugging and pulling:confused:

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks you
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I've never actually snared, but from all I've read there is a one-way type clip to keep it snug. In some states (if not all?) you also need some kind of stop as well, to prevent the snare from clinching too tightly as well.
 
1GB said:
I've never actually snared, but from all I've read there is a one-way type clip to keep it snug. In some states (if not all?) you also need some kind of stop as well, to prevent the snare from clinching too tightly as well.
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You are correct. I just found some more info on snares. There has to be a mechanical lock, anchor swivel and and a stop device to prevent it from closing in too tight.

Any ideas where to find a "mechanical" lock.:confused: I've looked at a few hardware stores but haven't found anything that "locks".
 
Enjoy . . . lots of good advice here. Back in the late '50's & '60's I supported my outdoor addictions by trapping. As stated, it's a lifelong learning experience. Research, read, & if possible your idea of tagging-along with a seasoned trapper is a great idea. Other than snaring a few bunnies when I'm camping, I don't trap anymore. I still shoot a lot of coyotes for landowners who are having problems with them, however. Trapping cats takes real finesse. Best of luck to you.
 
1pheas4, you can build your own snares, or let the pro's do that for you. Buying a snare built for the species you're targeting is wise. They come with the locks, swivels, etc. Google trapping supplies or animal traps and you should come up with some good commercial sites. Gander mountain and Cabelas sell traps, if you have a store nearby, you could go there.
 
Be careful with snares, lots of coon hounds, and bird dogs run afoul of ill placed snares. Personally, I would limit snares to blind sets or water applications. Not much fun to furiously try to cut a cable snare while your dog is thrashing around choking to death. Trapped all through my youth, and I am 100% in favor of the practice, learned more woodlore trapping than any other pursuit, made me a better outdoorsman than I ever would have become without the interest trapping provided. Don't kbow what we do with the furs these days though.
 
Check with your local fur buyer he may have what you are looking for. The one I go to has everything from a-z for snares and trapping.
 
First year trapping and I'm having fun. Fish cleanings what I've been using and cat food Possums really like that stuff. Found 5 beaver dams on public ground but don't have big enough traps. Next year their in trouble:D I like rock in water put fish on top and traps all around works for me:D Bucket traps good to. Nice posting guys:thumbsup:
 
Prairie Drifter said:
Bob, I've got photo albums that go back into the 70's traplines. It's fun to relive those days. I can still remember individual catches. Probably could get close to the spot they occured in some cases. There were a lot of life lessons. I have never worked that hard for so little and liked it so much! There were a lot of first, a lot of empty traps, a lot of moments of shear terror. I wish everyone could have those type of experiences growing up. A furbuyer in Nebraska should get a lot of credit. He took two young teens aside and spent an afternoon teaching us how fur should look when it is finished. He benefitted from that for several years and a number of other buyers have benefitted since. I guess I need to find some youngster wanting to learn and Pass it On. It's a dying art.
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Had the exact same experience, only in 80,81. Met a trapper while deer hunting. Glad I shot a little buck first thing and could pick his brain all day! He said he made 30,000 the year before. This guy lived in a tent where we camped and his wife would show up every 2 weeks with frozen Chili and other easy to warm up foods. Everyday this guy was skinning Cats, Beaver and Coyotes and Badgers!!! Had the trapper smell going!!LOL! But I would love to thank him !!!!!!!
 
oldandnew said:
Be careful with snares, lots of coon hounds, and bird dogs run afoul of ill placed snares. Personally, I would limit snares to blind sets or water applications. Not much fun to furiously try to cut a cable snare while your dog is thrashing around choking to death.
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I didn't think of that. Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to ask the land owner if he's got anyone hunting back there. May have to switch to a different trap.

I ordered some snares from Minnesota trap line today. The snares come with everything I need so that makes it easy. Should have them by next Wed/Thur.

I tagged along with a buddy today as he set some traps. I've been missing out on a lot of fun all these years by not trapping. This could be another addiction I really don't need at this time. lol

Thanks for the help guys;)
 
Is a #550 foot hold big enough for a beaver? Dang thing set the trap off but wasn't in it. :confused:

Also, if I want to sell furs in what condition do buyers take them? I know they take green hides but I heard they aren't worth as much.

What's the next step then? Salting?

Thanks!
 
1pheas4

I sent you a pm.
 
1pheas4 said:
Is a #550 foot hold big enough for a beaver? Dang thing set the trap off but wasn't in it. :confused:

Also, if I want to sell furs in what condition do buyers take them? I know they take green hides but I heard they aren't worth as much.

What's the next step then? Salting?

Thanks!
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Sorry but I am not familiar with the #550 foot hold trap. I normally use a #4 double coil trap. Which is a leg hold trap.

Sometimes when a beaver is coming up to the bank. Before they extend their front feet out (they do not use them to swim) they will "bump" a trap with their chest. Setting off the trap and not catching the beaver.
For myself I like to use some small sticks pointing into the water but submerged. This will have the effect of causing the beaver to try to "feel" for the shore line with all four legs.
I put the trap in slightly deeper water, about 8"
My target is a back leg, thus hindering their ability to use their strong back legs to swim out of the trap.
Or use a body trap, but in my state such a trap big enough for a beaver needs to be totally underwater, you might want to check with your state game agency.

As to selling a beaver pelt. Yes a fur buyer will take one in the green, and it will result in a lower price.
Some will also take a beaver not skinned at all.
The next step after a beaver is skinned is to remove the fat and any muscle still attached to the pelt but do this without cutting the pelt.

Then you can tack the pelt out round on a piece of plywood or use a hoop stretcher to stretch it out round.

In my opinion. A beaver is one of the hardest critters to learn to "flesh out" If you wish to learn how to flesh out pelts in order to dry them, you might wish to start with a muskrat, which is far easier.
 
Live2hunt, I'm Sorry; "leg trap". I called it a "foot trap".:eek:

When you dry the skins are you salting them or just simply air drying the skins/furs?

I ask this because when I'm performing taxidermy I salt my clients fleshed out hides prior to starting the tanning process. I can't just air dry them because bacteria will form.

It doesn't sound like (salting) this is needed for furs sold to fur buyers?

Do I have this right?

Thanks again for your help. As all of you can tell I'm very new to this!

PS--Prairie Drifter, it looks like you have it figured out!
 
No worries.

No salt just air dry. All fat and muscle must be removed before allowing the pelt to air dry.
Beaver have a muscle that runs along their back but is attached to the skin. It is similar to a dog in the sense the muscle allows the beaver to shake off the water.
It has been my experience that muscle is not real easy to get off for a beginner. But you obviously have Taxidermy skills so this might not be a big deal for yourself.
Also just a FYI. If you can hold off on trapping beaver until the hard part of Winter (January where I live) the fur on the pelts become much denser. This results in a higher price for the trapper per pelt.
 
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