What's the Consensus of Pheasant Hunters

I booked a wild pheasant hunt. I haven't hunted pheasants in 30 years, and they were planted birds.

My favorite shotgun is probably a youth model Beretta A39120 gauge that I bought my son about 20 years ago. It's lightweight and fast-handling. I'm comfortable and confident with it. How does a 20 gauge work on wild pheasants? Would #5 shot work? Should I go with #4?

I have a couple 12 gauge shotguns that I could use. I shoot a Belgian Browning Light Twelve pretty darn good. But I love the lightweight and fast-handling characteristics of that A391.

What do you guys recommend?
 
What do you kill with? You might like the gun and shoot clays well, but actually kill birds with it with out thinking. You will know when it's right.
I use a 20ga. #6 IC and #5 Mod
 
I would take the 12 and 2.75" 5 shot, 1.25 oz will do just fine. IC or mod choke if that gun has interchangeable tubes. If you really are a decent shot, try the youth sized 20 and 3" shells w/ 1.125 or 1.25 oz loads of 5s. Bring both guns, just in case you do struggle with one (or a mechanical failure), you can switch out instead of complaining about the gun and that being the memory of the trip that you will remember. ***Don't leave the 12 gauge at home. I am not sure why that 12 gauge would give you any concerns, I just have to think it would be much more comfortable than trying to shoulder any youth sized gun. I honestly wouldn't take a youth sized gun as a back-up, they are just hard for an adult to shoot. Send that youth sized shotgun with your son, for when he has a kid. My brother took the youth sized shotgun he had for his son (after the son out-grew it) and put on a full sized but stock, nothing right about that thing....shorty barrel, long forearm, it was not pretty, but it had to have been light and cheaper than buying an adult sized gun I guess. Hope you have an awesome trip...post pics!
 
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Here's a previous post of mine on 20-gauge pheasant loads.

If you are shooting pheasants with a 20-gauge, go with 1- to 1 1/4-ounce loads of lead #6s or #5s. If choked appropriately, loads in that range should take care of any pheasant shooting out to about 40 yards. Here are a few of my pattern numbers to give you an idea of how a couple of my reloads perform in my gun.

Patterns from a 20-gauge Browning Citori with 28" Invector-plus barrels and Briley flush chokes (patterns average of five, 30" post-shot scribed circle, yardage taped muzzle to target, and in-shell pellet count average of five).

20 GA 2 ¾” RELOAD (BLUE DOT)
1 oz #6 lead (233 pellets) @ 1200 fps

30 YARDS – SK / pattern 147 (63%)
30 YARDS – IC / pattern 168 (72%)
40 YARDS – M / pattern 146 (63%)
40 YARDS – IM / pattern 163 (70%)

20 GA 3" RELOAD (BLUE DOT)
1 1/8 oz #5 lead (190 pellets) @ 1220 fps

30 YARDS – SK / pattern 140 (74%)
30 YARDS – IC / pattern 149 (78%)
40 YARDS – M / pattern 138 (73%)
40 YARDS – IM / pattern 147 (77%)

Good luck!
 
I'm a firm believer in the "bring enough gun" theory. I'd rather pick out a few pellets than search for crippled birds. With that said, I know people do just fine with a 20 gauge.

Will you be hunting with flushers or pointers? Generally, a person will have closer shots with a pointer, but when it comes to snow and cattails, any bird that holds tight will be a close shot (for a split second until they rocket out of there, anyway). Since you booked a hunt, I'm going to assume you won't be hunting public land, so that eliminates the non-tox discussion.

Like Remy said, I'd bring both guns, then start with the one you prefer and make a switch if it isn't doing the job.
 
OP: "I booked a wild pheasant hunt. I haven't hunted pheasants in 30 years, and they were planted birds." Yep, some hustler around here promised wild birds to some hunters from far away, but they found the cages full of birds behind one of his buildings.
 
OP: "I booked a wild pheasant hunt. I haven't hunted pheasants in 30 years, and they were planted birds." Yep, some hustler around here promised wild birds to some hunters from far away, but they found the cages full of birds behind one of his buildings.
I at first read it like you did but pretty sure he means 30 years ago when he last hunted pheasants they were planted birds. Now he has a wild bird hunt scheduled and thus why he is asking what gun to take. Just my take after reading it a couple of times but maybe I'm wrong???
 
As much as I enjoy hunting pheasants with a 20 gauge, the 12 gauge is simply more effective & minimizes cripples. If I had a 30 year gap, it would be 12 gauge and 4’s. If you’re a tad slow due to 30 years of rust, 4’s will help.
Be careful not to mix 12 & 20 gauge rounds, if you bring both….& have a great trip!
 
I keep saying this..for a real upland shooter's treat, try a 16 gauge with 1 or preferably for late season, 1 1/8 ounce loads of #5 or #6. The manufacturers are making some nice 16's now...Browning makes the new A5 and Ithaca the model 37. On the used market, there are plenty of mod. choked 16 gauge Model 12's and they make a very potent late season bird gun. The A5 weighs just under 6 lbs., recoil is light but the gauge has plenty of punch for late season roosters. Yes, the ammo is not as plentiful. Find a used MEC 600 JR. in 16 gauge and you're all set.
 
I keep saying this..for a real upland shooter's treat, try a 16 gauge with 1 or preferably for late season, 1 1/8 ounce loads of #5 or #6. The manufacturers are making some nice 16's now...Browning makes the new A5 and Ithaca the model 37. On the used market, there are plenty of mod. choked 16 gauge Model 12's and they make a very potent late season bird gun. The A5 weighs just under 6 lbs., recoil is light but the gauge has plenty of punch for late season roosters. Yes, the ammo is not as plentiful. Find a used MEC 600 JR. in 16 gauge and you're all set.
I love my 16’s with #5 or #6 shot. I did get some Boss #4s recently and anxious to try them on some wild birds.
 
My favorite shotgun is probably a youth model Beretta A39120 gauge that I bought my son about 20 years ago. It's lightweight and fast-handling. I'm comfortable and confident with it. How does a 20 gauge work on wild pheasants? Would #5 shot work? Should I go with #4?

If you are comfortable and confident with it, that's the gun you use. Practice bringing it up and swinging to follow an imagined bird. Do it with the clothes you will be wearing (well, at least the clothes on the top half of your body--not forgetting gloves. Do it for 10 minutes, then later again, and then...three or four times a night or day.
Bringing the gun up and tracking is a key element of hitting your bird. If you have developed muscle memory, then you can adjust on the hunt to the environment, the suddenness of the flush, and the search for the safety.

I'd use #5s, but then I'd use anything from #s 4 to 7 1/2, depending...but that's not first hunt stuff.

If I'm hunting with other than a single shot, I have relied on a 20g sxs for 52 years; 20ga will definitely do it.

If you can think of it on site, don't worry about hitting a bird too far away. You don't HAVE to shoot. Get with a rhythm of your own.

It will come and make you happy.

Oh, and should all come to confusion, remember old hunter's mantra: Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

Best wishes.
 
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Depends what you shoot best. Love my 20 guns and shoot them well, better than my 12's. Shoot 3" plated #5's. Pick and choose shots and don't take going away shots at distance.
 
Practice some before you go , shoot the gun that breaks clays the best , put the shot on the front end of the bird with a load of 5’ or 6s in the 1 ounce to 1 1/4 load and you are good to go , Like what was rated above bring a back up gun , I had this save an out of state trip for me .
 
20's are great, lite and fast as you said and work fine for pen raised birds. Wild birds also over a point. But wild pheasants don't play fair and sometimes pen raised birds will Suprise you and flush wild. Take your lite 12 for a backup!
 
I'm a firm believer in the "bring enough gun" theory. I'd rather pick out a few pellets than search for crippled birds. With that said, I know people do just fine with a 20 gauge.

Will you be hunting with flushers or pointers? Generally, a person will have closer shots with a pointer, but when it comes to snow and cattails, any bird that holds tight will be a close shot (for a split second until they rocket out of there, anyway). Since you booked a hunt, I'm going to assume you won't be hunting public land, so that eliminates the non-tox discussion.

Like Remy said, I'd bring both guns, then start with the one you prefer and make a switch if it isn't doing the job.
That's a good point. If you notice most preserve dogs are pointer's rather than flushers. I think the reason is that they are safer for inexperienced folks because they give the guide a chance to put the shooter in position. It also might be embarrassing with a flusher as they might very well catch every one of them!
 
There is no better gauge then 12 for wild pheasants, PERIOD. However, that does not mean other gauges cannot be used, but the higher the gauge the better you must shoot. Be honest with your capabilities.
I think some would argue the 16b fits that slot as well. Same payload, less recoil and smaller frame, in a SxS at least.
 
LC Smith: light 12's can be found with a little looking. Walk into any store that sells ammo and you'll find 12 ga., not so with 16ga. Very few new 16's being made. JMHO, overall the 12 cannot be beat.
 
I’d go with whichever you feel more confident with, and bring the other as a backup. 5 shot should be fine. I’d practice mounting the unloaded gun inside with a mini mag light in the barrel, in a semi dark room. This will give you a good idea of where your gun is pointed. Muscle memory is key for me. You can practice following the lines where a wall meets a wall or ceiling too. Good luck!
 
I at first read it like you did but pretty sure he means 30 years ago when he last hunted pheasants they were planted birds. Now he has a wild bird hunt scheduled and thus why he is asking what gun to take. Just my take after reading it a couple of times but maybe I'm wrong???

you're probably right. no, you are right.
 
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