Trainer Question
- Thread starter badgers21
- Start date
"sending him back....
What did the first trainer accomplish? And what do you expect from another session?
Would assume the first trainer would continue the training, unless it's dog specific or breed specific.
Were you satisfied with the first round of training?
I've investigated the second round of training (after the initial intro to gun and bird) and it's rather expensive - $450. However, doing it myself, including birds and transport to the fields, I found it was a wash.
Hope this helps - good luck.
Jon
What did the first trainer accomplish? And what do you expect from another session?
Would assume the first trainer would continue the training, unless it's dog specific or breed specific.
Were you satisfied with the first round of training?
I've investigated the second round of training (after the initial intro to gun and bird) and it's rather expensive - $450. However, doing it myself, including birds and transport to the fields, I found it was a wash.
Hope this helps - good luck.
Jon
If you have hunted the dog since the first training session and noticed certain behaviors that need correction, and you don't have the time to work on the dog, send him/her to a trainer.
Training the owner is probably more important than training the dog! I'm always learning new techniques. And I find there's nothing like establishing a hunting situation with birds (preserve) vs attempting the training during a hunting season.
Finding the right trainer...can make a big difference. Word of mouth seems to work well.
Training the owner is probably more important than training the dog! I'm always learning new techniques. And I find there's nothing like establishing a hunting situation with birds (preserve) vs attempting the training during a hunting season.
Finding the right trainer...can make a big difference. Word of mouth seems to work well.
The trainer worked on basic obedience (sit, heel, come, etc.), and introduced the dog to gun/birds. Over the past month and a half I have had him out at a local preserve 4 times. He seems to "get it" more and more each time.
The things I would like to see him improve on would be retrieve to hand, quartering, etc. I guess a better question is, would it be worth it to send him back, or are these things I should easily be able to accomplish?
The things I would like to see him improve on would be retrieve to hand, quartering, etc. I guess a better question is, would it be worth it to send him back, or are these things I should easily be able to accomplish?
Red Label
New member
You can do it yourself if you have the "know how". Do some research, read books, watch videos, join a training club. Delivering to hand may take an experienced person if you don't do your research, but, the dog may pick it up on his own with repetition. I train 3-4 times a week, but I have have access to land right outside my door. Seems like these days I have a lot of fun and get more thrill out of training than actually hunting. I can train all year and enter Hunt tests during spring to early fall. Hunting is kind of the reward for just 2-3 months out of the year. My Lab waits at the door for me to get home so we can train, he absolutely loves the time out there and he stays in shape all year.
Not everyone has the time though, nor the land access. That is where the Pro's get their business, and most of them do a good job. If you were happy with what your trainer did before, you could take your dog back. It does take a lot of time (and in the case of using a trainer...MONEY) to get a polished dog though and it all depends on what your expectations are too.
Not everyone has the time though, nor the land access. That is where the Pro's get their business, and most of them do a good job. If you were happy with what your trainer did before, you could take your dog back. It does take a lot of time (and in the case of using a trainer...MONEY) to get a polished dog though and it all depends on what your expectations are too.
Good questions...
My Golden likes to show off a bit before delivering to hand. I allow a little of this, but insist he drop the bird on command. Still working on this...he loves to retrieve so that part of the training is easy. Keep it consistent and fun. Also, finding the dummy in tall grass is a challenge they love, so introduce this when you can.
Regards quartering: Recently I asked my trainer about quartering and he said don't worry about it - it will come. Some of the books on training will demonstrate quartering and there are on- line videos that demonstrate this technique with a rope and whistle.
When I plant birds, the dog makes a bee-line for the bird or the flag vs quartering. Stagger the birds you place and the dog will start quartering. My trainer said he has the same problem: the dogs know there is a bird planted and they tend to run straight for the flag, bird or follow the bird cart!
Tweet your whistle and the dog will start to learn to turn; if you combine the whistle with a hand signal the dog learns to change direction. I use hand signals in the house, when I want the dog to go back or move in another direction.
Good luck...takes lots of patience and consistency - just like training kids!
Several hunting situations will correct this t4endancy...
My Golden likes to show off a bit before delivering to hand. I allow a little of this, but insist he drop the bird on command. Still working on this...he loves to retrieve so that part of the training is easy. Keep it consistent and fun. Also, finding the dummy in tall grass is a challenge they love, so introduce this when you can.
Regards quartering: Recently I asked my trainer about quartering and he said don't worry about it - it will come. Some of the books on training will demonstrate quartering and there are on- line videos that demonstrate this technique with a rope and whistle.
When I plant birds, the dog makes a bee-line for the bird or the flag vs quartering. Stagger the birds you place and the dog will start quartering. My trainer said he has the same problem: the dogs know there is a bird planted and they tend to run straight for the flag, bird or follow the bird cart!
Tweet your whistle and the dog will start to learn to turn; if you combine the whistle with a hand signal the dog learns to change direction. I use hand signals in the house, when I want the dog to go back or move in another direction.
Good luck...takes lots of patience and consistency - just like training kids!
Several hunting situations will correct this t4endancy...
Thanks for all the feedback, it is much appreciated. When I initially sent the dog to the trainer, my expectations were to get him to a level where I would still be invited back on the hunting trip the next year! He's surpassed my expectations and is doing well for 1 year old.
Unfortunately I lack time and access to land to achieve some of the more advanced techniques. This is where I think working with a trainer would be beneficial. The initial trainer primarily works with preparing dogs for field trials. Any thoughts on this type of trainer vs. somebody specifically working them for hunting.
Unfortunately I lack time and access to land to achieve some of the more advanced techniques. This is where I think working with a trainer would be beneficial. The initial trainer primarily works with preparing dogs for field trials. Any thoughts on this type of trainer vs. somebody specifically working them for hunting.
Are you training your dog for field trials or hunting or both?
For hunting, I primarily want my dog to do the following: be an ambitious hunter/find birds; stay in range, and find dead or crippled birds and retrieve.
Obviously having a dog that is obedient is important, especially the "stay in range" part. I have a retriever and I don't want him out 100 yards busting birds. I have, however, taught him to point and enjoy watching him stretch his body out and freeze on a bird.
Field trial training is another matter; dogs seem to be held to another standard and a different set of criteria by which they are judged. My focus is on hunting basics...
For hunting, I primarily want my dog to do the following: be an ambitious hunter/find birds; stay in range, and find dead or crippled birds and retrieve.
Obviously having a dog that is obedient is important, especially the "stay in range" part. I have a retriever and I don't want him out 100 yards busting birds. I have, however, taught him to point and enjoy watching him stretch his body out and freeze on a bird.
Field trial training is another matter; dogs seem to be held to another standard and a different set of criteria by which they are judged. My focus is on hunting basics...
Just saying, that maybe you need some training as well. see if your trainer can watch you run your dog and build a plan of action for both you and your dog. A trainer can only do so much with your dog if your not able to follow up with good strong handling skills.
Your particpation is vital
Ranging...usually a problem for the life of the dog, especially dogs with very strong "prey drive."
Hence, using the collar will be very important - keeping the dog in range at all times. When I go for walks with the dog, I don't let him wander too far and will give him a signal to come back if he's out too far...they get distracted very easily!! With repetition and stimulation he will learn that hunting or running alone will not be tolerated.
Hence, using the collar will be very important - keeping the dog in range at all times. When I go for walks with the dog, I don't let him wander too far and will give him a signal to come back if he's out too far...they get distracted very easily!! With repetition and stimulation he will learn that hunting or running alone will not be tolerated.
Thanks again for all the feedback. I'm sure that I need as much, if not more training then the dog. He is my first dog, and I never even saw a wild pheasant until two seasons ago. I was instantly hooked after traveling out to SD, and the dog has made the passion even stronger.
On a side note, any trainer recommendations in Wisconsin?
On a side note, any trainer recommendations in Wisconsin?