You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Reloading for Pheasant help
- Thread starter Gun Jammin Gary
- Start date
Joe Hunter
Well-known member
I'm in need of a little assistance. Recently, I've been hunting pheasant with a 20 gauge with 3" Fiocchi #6 shot which is 1200 FPS. When it's hard to find #6 shot, I use #5 shot. I want to reload using #6 shot however I cannot find any load data for those 3" hulls. I've read a lot of threads where guys are using 2 3/4 Winchester AA and they say that it'll work. So, I have a few questions:
1. Is it easier to use 2 3/4" hulls?
2. Should I step up to a 1250 FPS load or can I stick with 1200 FPS if I use 2 3/4" hulls?
3. Is 8 1/2" shot more for skeet or can I use them for birds too? I think I know the answer to this but want confirmation.
Sorry for all the questions, but I don't want to reload anything and waste product without getting some confirmation on this. Thanks in advance for your help.
1. No, not really easier but you will have to adjust your machine each time you change from 2 3/4" to 3" or vice versa. It can be a pain switching it back and forth.
2. Any load of #6 or #5 lead between 1200 and 1250 will be fine.
3. 8 1/2 is too small for pheasant! Stick with #6 or #5s!
The problem with reloading now days is getting the components you need or want. And they are much more expensive than in the past! I enjoyed reloading my own hunting and target shells for years but recently stopped reloading when I ran out of components. Fortunately, I loaded enough pheasant loads to last me many years.
A 2 3/4" 1-ounce load of #6 or #5s will work fine and a 3" 1 1/8-ounce load with #5 is a good 3" load.
Here are a few of my pattern numbers from my reloads that I have shot many pheasants with to give you an idea of the kind of performance you might get.
Patterns from a 20-gauge Browning Citori with 28" Invector-plus barrels and Briley flush chokes (patterns average of five, 30" post-shot inscribed circle, yardage taped muzzle to target, and in-shell pellet count average of five).
20 GA 2 ¾” RELOAD (BLUE DOT)
1 oz #6 lead (233 pellets) @ 1200 fps
30 YARDS – SK / pattern 147 (63%)
30 YARDS – IC / pattern 168 (72%)
40 YARDS – M / pattern 146 (63%)
40 YARDS – IM / pattern 163 (70%)
20 GA 3" RELOAD (BLUE DOT)
1 1/8 oz #5 lead (190 pellets) @ 1220 fps
30 YARDS – SK / pattern 140 (74%)
30 YARDS – IC / pattern 149 (78%)
40 YARDS – M / pattern 138 (73%)
40 YARDS – IM / pattern 147 (77%)
If you are shooting loads under 1 1/4 oz, I recommend the nickel-plated shot sold by Precision Reloading in Mitchell instead of lead. Much of the lead in factory loads and OTC shot are soft. Some folks claim plated shot patterns better, and also does not pull feathers into the wound like lead. In my experience, they do pattern better, and the rounder pellets do seem to add a little extra range for killing power. As for the feather pull, that's about a 50/50 deal.
Gun Jammin Gary
New member
Joe, thank you very much for this info. This was/is extremely helpful and exactly what I was hoping for to get a better understanding.1. No, not really easier but you will have to adjust your machine each time you change from 2 3/4" to 3" or vice versa. It can be a pain switching it back and forth.
2. Any load of #6 or #5 lead between 1200 and 1250 will be fine.
3. 8 1/2 is too small for pheasant! Stick with #6 or #5s!
The problem with reloading now days is getting the components you need or want. And they are much more expensive than in the past! I enjoyed reloading my own hunting and target shells for years but recently stopped reloading when I ran out of components. Fortunately, I loaded enough pheasant loads to last me many years.
A 2 3/4" 1-ounce load of #6 or #5s will work fine and a 3" 1 1/8-ounce load with #5 is a good 3" load.
Here are a few of my pattern numbers from my reloads that I have shot many pheasants with to give you an idea of the kind of performance you might get.
Patterns from a 20-gauge Browning Citori with 28" Invector-plus barrels and Briley flush chokes (patterns average of five, 30" post-shot inscribed circle, yardage taped muzzle to target, and in-shell pellet count average of five).
20 GA 2 ¾” RELOAD (BLUE DOT)
1 oz #6 lead (233 pellets) @ 1200 fps
30 YARDS – SK / pattern 147 (63%)
30 YARDS – IC / pattern 168 (72%)
40 YARDS – M / pattern 146 (63%)
40 YARDS – IM / pattern 163 (70%)
20 GA 3" RELOAD (BLUE DOT)
1 1/8 oz #5 lead (190 pellets) @ 1220 fps
30 YARDS – SK / pattern 140 (74%)
30 YARDS – IC / pattern 149 (78%)
40 YARDS – M / pattern 138 (73%)
40 YARDS – IM / pattern 147 (77%)
I’ve reloaded 12 gauge, 2 3/4” skeet loads for years, but now I have three more presses. My plan is to set one up to be a dedicated 20 gauge pheasant press. Initially, I wanted to use my old Fiocchi hulls, but I’d have to buy different powder, different wads, etc.
I have two slightly different loads from Alliant using 20/28 powder, 2 3/4” hulls, Win wads. So, I should be good to go.
I recently purchased a Lyman 6th edition manual. Just waiting for it to arrive.
Lastly, what I’m gathering from the info you provided is that I’m gonna need a 1 ounce and/or 1 1/8 ounce Charge Bar because 7/8 ounce of shot may not do the job.
Gun Jammin Gary
New member
Thank you for the information. This is very helpful. Much appreciated.If you are shooting loads under 1 1/4 oz, I recommend the nickel-plated shot sold by Precision Reloading in Mitchell instead of lead. Much of the lead in factory loads and OTC shot are soft. Some folks claim plated shot patterns better, and also does not pull feathers into the wound like lead. In my experience, they do pattern better, and the rounder pellets do seem to add a little extra range for killing power. As for the feather pull, that's about a 50/50 deal.