Recommend some dog boots please.

C

capt4fish

New member
We hunted Nevada this last season.
On multiple occasions while trying to get to likely public cover the grass stickers stopped my griffs.
Ive never had an issue in with stickers in South Dakota, but dang they were bad in Nebraska and it cost us birds.
Looking for some help with a durable dog boot that will stop the stickers.

Thanks,
Kenneth
 
capt4fish said:
We hunted Nevada this last season.
On multiple occasions while trying to get to likely public cover the grass stickers stopped my griffs.
Ive never had an issue in with stickers in South Dakota, but dang they were bad in Nebraska and it cost us birds.
Looking for some help with a durable dog boot that will stop the stickers.

Thanks,
Kenneth
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Motorcycle tubes, my dogs wear boots 80% of the time. This is the best option I’ve found and a good price point, I don’t boot them for cactus as they need to navigate them on there own, works great for sand burs
 
If the stickers are that bad, the only boots I've found worthwhile are the lewis dog boots. I've never done the motorcycle/bicycle tubes but same concept really so I bet it works well.
 
Lewis are good, had problems with hot spots after a long day. One 5$ tube makes 8 boots, granted they do not last as long
 
I’ve always used Lewis boots but I think make some tube boots next year. Expensive to lose a Lewis boot.
 
Thanks for the replies.
In regards to stopping hot spots. Where are the likely areas that they show up?
And are you just duct taping the tube together or is there some tape on the leg hair?
 
The way I do it. Athletic wrap around area above the foot. A quick light wrap of electrical tape, waterproof and keep’s athletic in place . That will minimize hot spots, where boots may rub. Then boot , and use he duct tape is applied to hold boot in place . Important, wrap ankle tape high enough to cover fur. So duct tape doesn’t pull protective dog hair off.
 
I use a wrap of athletic tape then a wrap of 1 inch duct tape. I find the bad hotspots are on top of the toes. No wrap can prevent that, a good boot fit helps
 
capt4fish said:
I’m liking the denier booties, online description at least.
How are these boots for causing hot spots?
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I mostly have run them on snow on one of my dogs, I did run them on both my dogs for those ball cactus in Nebraska. I prerap the legs then athletic tape, boots then duct tape. The only thing I noticed was the mediums rubbed that pad on the one that uses them the mosts forearm. She didn’t like that so I just got a half a dozen smalls in a different color to run on her fronts.
 
I used to run the denier boots, but my experience, the stickers either aren't that bad and the dogs just deal with them, or they are really bad and the boots don't do enough. And then they burn them out very fast, on a hard day they can go through a set in a day. They aren't expensive but the rubber lasts 100 times longer so they are much cheaper in the long run.
 
BrownDogsCan2 said:
I mostly have run them on snow on one of my dogs, I did run them on both my dogs for those ball cactus in Nebraska. I prerap the legs then athletic tape, boots then duct tape. The only thing I noticed was the mediums rubbed that pad on the one that uses them the mosts forearm. She didn’t like that so I just got a half a dozen smalls in a different color to run on her fronts.
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The ice and snow did a number on my Vizsla's paws the last time out and I had to leave him in the truck the last few days. I was planning on ordering these boots for next season. What weight denier are you using? I was thinking the 330 or 500 denier would be more flexible on snow and ice than the 1000 but I was going to call the company for their recommendation.
 
akp said:
On the Lewis boots, I first put on duct tape sticky side out. Then boot on. Then duct tape boot on.
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This is the way... but I would sub out 1" electrical tape for the duct tape. Duct tape is made to tear straight across and that feature has cost me a boot or two. So far, knock on wood, I haven't lost a boot using electrical tape.
 
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