Need Advice Improving Patterning

M

Marylander

New member
Last season I tried for the first time Pheasant Hunting in January 2016 alone in PA public land and without a dog bagged one bird, and the next day joined Pheasants Forever.
The good news is that in my second season hunting Pheasants in PA (couple weeks ago) I got my second pheasant again in public lands without a dog. The bad news is that I missed (4) more than I hit (1). After discounting my bad aim, very high wind and other excuses, still seemed to many misses.
Therefore I patterned my Beretta Whitewing U/A (a no frills 626 I believe) with the ammo that I used: Prairie Storm 2 3/4" 1 1/4 oz shot #5 1500 fps shooting the paper at 40 yards (measured with rangefinder) aiming while resting elbows over a bench rest.
Attached are the 2 photos of patterning paper with 30 inches circles and the indicated pellet counts in the paper using the Beretta Mobil Choke MODIFIED or FULL.
Shaded are the areas void of pellets with seem to me as unacceptable (I wonder how even hit one bird with those patterns) . I would appreciate advice on my patterns below and how to improve my pellet density.
I really need help fast in solving this issue if I want to hunt next Christmas release with any hopes.
Thanks and Best regards, Marylander
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Mary -- Glad your getting out and try to get some birds. I would suggest a couple things off hand. First, you don't need high-velocity (1500 fps) loads to kill pheasants. Normal 1200-1300 fps loads will do just fine. Secondly, the miss-shaped pellets in Prairie Storm may be resulting in more open patterns that normal spherical pellets. And, you are on the right track by selecting 12ga 1 1/4 oz loads of #5 lead, they make a great pheasant load.

Here are a few of my pattern numbers comparing the patterning differences between 1400 fps high-velocity loads against slower 1220 fps loads.

Are you really getting improved performance from the more expensive high-velocity pheasant loads?

Well, let?s see what the pattern board can tell us about these two loads and how they perform.

Patterning results from a 12-gauge Browning Citori with 28" Invector-plus barrels using Briley flush chokes (patterns average of five, 30" post-shot scribed circle, yardage taped muzzle to target, and in-shell pellet count average of five).

12 GA 2 3/4" FEDERAL GAME-SHOK HEAVY FIELD LOAD
1 1/4 oz #5 lead (224 pellets) @ 1,220 fps
30 YARDS / IC / pattern 173 (77%)
40 YARDS / Mod / pattern 145 (65%)
50 YARDS / Full / pattern 109 (49%)

12 GA 2 3/4" FEDERAL PREMIUM UPLAND HIGH-VELOCITY LOAD
1 1/4 oz #5 lead (216 pellets) @ 1,400 fps
30 YARDS / IC / pattern 152 (70%)
40 YARDS / Mod / pattern 126 (58%)
50 YARDS / Full / pattern 84 (39%)

It's obvious from the pattern numbers that the high-velocity load shot much more open patterns from the chokes tested. Both the IC and Modified chokes shot 7% tighter patterns with the slower Game-Shok load and 10% tighter with the Full choke.

It's clear to me that you could save some money and reduce recoil by shooting the 1,220 fps load and not forgo any pheasant killin' effectiveness. Heck, the slower load put 24 more pellets (a 29% increase) in the 50-yard pattern than the premium load. Just because they are labeled "Premium" loads doesn't necessarily mean they are the "best" patterning loads!

That's my take, now you can be the judge!

I would also wonder what your normal or maximum shooting distant is. Choke selection is always a compromise but you need to set yourself up for success by selecting the most appropriate choke for the type of shooting you're doing. Obviously, patterning is the only way to really know how a particular load is performing from your gun/choke(s). As a side note, the tightest patterning choke isn't always the best choice. And, you really need to shoot more than one pattern to determine what your gun/choke/load are doing. Here is a short write-up on patterning that might be helpful.

If you are patterning to assess your load and choke performance, not checking for your guns Point-of-Aim/Point-of-Impact (POA/POI), here is a short list of steps to follow.

First, you'll want to make sure you use good methods so your data will be accurate and to allow you to make fair comparisons between loads, chokes, pellets, etc. Patterning the right way does take time and effort (another reason to do it right the first time), but it is the only way to find out what a load and/or choke is doing.

Steps for shotgun patterning:

1) Set up a pattern board (4' x 4') frame with a backing material like cardboard or particle board to attach the pattern sheets.

2) Get some large (40" x 40" minimum) pattern sheets of paper or cardboard. Many prefer to use 48" x 48" sheets of white paper. These large sheets will allow you to capture the majority of the pattern and make identification of the densest 30" portion much easier. This is particularly true if you are going to be patterning at distances beyond 40 yards.

3) Measure off your shooting distance from muzzle to target. Yes, 40 yards is the industry standard for evaluating choke performance, and a good distance to pattern some loads, but you'll want to pattern your loads/chokes at the distances you'll be shooting your birds/targets. As an example, if you need a good 30 yard load/choke combo then pattern at that distance, and if you need a good 50 yard load/choke combo then you'll want to shoot your patterns at 50 yards.

4) Now that you have a pattern board and some pattern sheets, attach a blank pattern sheet to the pattern board and fire one shot at the center of the sheet. This can be an off-hand shot or shot from a bench, it doesn't really matter, since you are just trying to get the pattern reasonably centered on the paper. You can put an aim point in the center of the paper if you need it, but you don't have to and it is only to give you an aim point. This aim point shouldn't influence you when drawing the 30" pattern circle around the densest portion of the pattern, more on this later. As a side note, you may get some indications of POA/POI issues during this pattern testing but that isn't what we are concentrating on now. It is something you may need to address latter however.

5) Remove the sheet from the pattern board and repeat the process. Remember, you must shoot a minimum of three patterns for an average and five is better. Shotguns are not exacting instruments and variation between pattern numbers is the norm so averaging is must. And, shooting one pattern to get an idea of what it is going on with a load/choke can be misleading!

6) Now that you have shot your patterns, draw a post-shot 30" diameter circle (use a 15" piece of string with a pencil or a yard stick with holes 15"s apart to scribe a circle) around the densest portion of the pattern. Yes, do this after the shot not before. Why after the shot? Because, you're trying to evaluate the load/choke not your ability to center a shot in a pre-drawn 30" circle!

7) Count the pellet strikes in the 30" circle and average your pattern numbers. You can then calculate a pattern percentage by dividing the average pattern count by the in-shell pellet count if you like. To get a true pattern percentage you will need to cut open and count the pellets in several unfired shells so you will have the true average in-shell pellet count. Remember, pattern percentages tell you about load/choke efficiency, not necessarily how effective the load/choke will be at killing birds or breaking targets, see below for more details on that.

Important points to consider:

1) How many pellets did your load/choke put in the 30" circle? Birds of different sizes/types require different pattern densities in order to reliably hit the vital areas.

2) What size/type of shot were you using? Birds of different types/sizes require different amounts of pellet energy to penetrate the vital areas.

3) What yardage do you normally shoot your birds? Birds shot at longer distances will usually require larger pellets to maintain enough pellet energy to penetrate the vital areas.

4) What yardage was your load/choke capable of maintaining killing pattern densities? Longer distances usually require tighter chokes to maintain the minimum pattern density for the birds you are after. However, larger pellet sizes (BB and larger), particularly in the hard shot types like steel, do generally tend to pattern better from chokes with less than full choke constrictions.

5) Common sense should also tell you to pick the load/choke that gives the most consistent patterns and the one that has fairly good pellet distributed. Remember however, patterns are a random events so there will always be some variation between patterns, areas void of shot, and some clumping of shot.

Effective patterns include:

1) Sufficient Pattern Density -- enough pellet strikes in the 30-inch pattern to reliably hit the vital
areas (brain, spinal cord, heart or lungs) at the distance shot.

2) Adequate Pellet Energy -- correct pellet size and mass to retain enough per-pellet energy to penetrate the
vital areas at the distance shot.

3) Proper Choke -- enough choke to maintain adequate pattern density for the bird size/type at the distance
shot.

Hope this helps, good luck.
 
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Try using a improved I use skeet and improved kills out to 40 easy. I also use 7.5s more shot kills dead.
 
Joe Hunter, Thank you very much for your comments. Particularly on trying lower speed shoot. Advertisement was tempting to my inexperience.
Also thanks for describing the right way to pattern, much more precise than what I did. I will get some ammo and try again.
What about replacing my Beretta Mobil chokes in the photo by longer more specialized chokes? Would I be wasting more money?
I would be happy if could shoot nice patterns from 15 yards with the bottom barrel to 40 yards with the top barrel, any farther let it live.
Thanks. Marylander
 
Thank you Buggy for the advice. I have red that #6 shot was minimun and #5 for windy days, but if you can kill pheasants at 40 yards with #7.5 shot, I could place many more pellets in a larger and lethal cloud. I have previously patterned #7.5 and the circle is well covered by holes, just did not know that they still have enough energy to kill at 40 yards (I used #7.5 only with clays)
Thanks. Marylander
 
For released birds I think 6's serve as a very nice all around shot size. I would recommend trying IC and Modified with 6's and see if that gets you close to your desired results. If you want to use up this prairie storm 5's try sending them down a much more open choke and I think you'll find the results better there also. Since you already own them no reason not to use them up. Good luck and let us know what you find.
 
Marylander said:
What about replacing my Beretta Mobil chokes in the photo by longer more specialized chokes? Would I be wasting more money?
Click to expand...

Maybe, maybe not. But, chances are your factory chokes will work just fine.

Some pros and cons of extended choke tubes include:

1) extended tubes are usually easier/faster to change (no wrench needed),

2) most extended tubes identify the choke/constriction on the exposed portion where you can see it while some flush tubes don't have notches to indicate choke constrictions,

3) extended tubes provide muzzle protection from possible muzzle damage (dint) that could make choke removal or instillation difficult,

4) extended tubes provide additional length which allows for the possibility of different choke geometry and design (ramp angle and length, choke angle and length, parallel section length, porting and endless marketing gimmicks) which may or may not provide improved performance,

5) extended tubes usually weigh more than flush tubes which may or may not be a good thing for your gun's balance,

6) some shooters think the extended tubes look cool and some like the traditional uncluttered look of flush tubes, and

7) extended tubes are generally more expensive (the choke makers like that).

None of this means extended choke tubes work/perform "better" (whatever that means) than flush chokes. It really depends on the kind of performance you need/want from your chokes and loads for your type of hunting/shooting. However, if you aren't going to take the time to pattern them properly to find out how they really perform then it doesn't really matter, just use what you like.

On pellet size... Nothing really wrong with #6 lead (I've shot many myself with them) but for wild flushing pheasants that often present longer going away shots the #5 lead pellet is (in my opinion) a top performer.

On chokes... My normal 12ga O/U choke combo for wild pheasants is a SK/M combo.

Here are some of my pattern numbers to give you an idea of the kind of pattern densities you can get from a 12-gauge 1 1/8-ounce of #6 lead and a 1 1/4-ounce load of #5 lead. I could go with straight #5s but I often shoot the lighter less recoiling #6 load in the first barrel and have the heavier #5 load in my second tighter barrel.

Patterning results from a 12-gauge Browning Citori with 28" Invector-plus barrels using Briley flush chokes (patterns average of five, 30" post-shot scribed circle, yardage taped muzzle to target, and in-shell pellet count average of five).

12 GA 2 3/4" RELOAD (RSTS, R209, GREEN DOT, WAA12)
1 1/8 oz #6 lead (267 pellets) @ ~1225 fps
30 YARDS / SK / pattern 171 (64%)
40 YARDS / M / pattern 182 (68%)

12 GA 2 3/4" RELOAD (WAACF, W209, UNIQUE, WAA12F114)
1 1/4 oz #5 lead (210 pellets) @ 1220 fps
30 YARDS / SK / pattern 145 (69%)
40 YARDS / M / pattern 155 (74%)

As you can see, these loads provide plenty of pattern density to kill any pheasant that I can put the pattern on.

Hope this helps, good luck.
 
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Thanks to All for valuable comments. I will use smaller shot and also SLOWER since the less than mediocre patterns that I posted in the initiation of the thread (and others patterns that I have shooting Heavy Metal for geese) were all fast ammo with 1500 fps.
The superb pattern data shared by Joe Hunter is from 1220 fps ammo. My patterns would suggest that high speed opens much more, even in my Full choke, than slower speed ammo. Whichever the case, Joe's patterns are something that I will aim for.
I will pattern (and hope to use for the 1st shot) Remington Express XLR 12 Ga (SP1275) 2-3/4" 1-1/4 oz of 7.7 shot quoted at 1330 fps. I believe it should have a payload of about 437 pellets. I will use IMPROVED
2nd shoot: Remington Nitro Pheasant Magnum Copper Plated (NP12M6). 12 Ga 2-2/3" 1-3/8 oz shot #6 rated at 1300 fps. I believe it should have a payload of 309 pellets. I will use MOD if looks good at 40 yards, or FULL if not.
I will return to PA public lands with your recommendations. A dog is out of the question (and budget of a retired US Army man), but legs are still strong.
My dream would be become good enough as to enjoy a Pheasant hunt in public lands of the midwest.
To all again thanks for your patience and for guiding me in my new passion of Pheasant Hunting. I hope someday crossing paths with some of you. Marylander
 
I have extensive experience to share relating to shooting at pheasants and watching them fly away. The patterning, choke, and load details are important, but I think most of my shooting errors relate to poor mechanics. A proper consistent gun mount, focus on the front of the target, steady swing and follow through and staying in the gun for follow-up shots are the keys for me. I have streaks where I think I am becoming a good shot and then spells where I think I need a new gun.
 
Years ago i used Winchester AA 7.5 trap loads with an IC choke and then Federal 5s in the MOD barrel of my OU during the first few weeks of the season. Had the AAs in my left vest pocket, 5s in the right.

The 7.5s are devastating at the shorter ranges and will absolutely put a pheasant down for keeps with multiple hits.

Actually, that's why I finally quit using them. There was just too much small shot to pick out of the bird. :)
 
Run 7.5s through your top barrel light mod. And the prairie storms the bottom improved. , I bet you will like your patterns.
 
Not wanting an argument here, just giving my $0.02. I have NO idea what Pennsylvania public land roosters are like (are they released birds?), but if you plan to go ahead with 7.5s, I think you should be VERY diligent about limiting those shots to 25-30 yards, especially if you don't have a dog. Roosters are just plain tough. 6s are much more versatile. (My preference is 5s.)
 
Fnewguy said:
I have extensive experience to share relating to shooting at pheasants and watching them fly away. The patterning, choke, and load details are important, but I think most of my shooting errors relate to poor mechanics. A proper consistent gun mount, focus on the front of the target, steady swing and follow through and staying in the gun for follow-up shots are the keys for me. I have streaks where I think I am becoming a good shot and then spells where I think I need a new gun.
Click to expand...

Yep....It doesn't matter how good your pattern is if it isn't where the bird is going to be when they meet. I shot 3 bobwhites today in high wind, crossing, acrobatic type shots and then properly missed a rooster that got up 10yrds ahead of me and flew up into the wind trying to come back toward me just hanging there.....with both barrels. All I could do was laugh and follow it up with another bobwhite crossing shot with gale wind on its backside. Never thought bobwhites would be easier to hit than pheasants......flipping crazy.
 
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