First Bird Dog

[WingClipper]

Maverick VonBirdfindr comes home Sunday! My First Bird dog.
I got into upland hunting a couple years ago and we have been talking about a new dog for sometime. I found a reputable GSP breeder out of eastern Idaho. Starting training in September. Hoping to be out hunting upland 2025 season. Trainer seems to think i should go out fall this year. I think i may take him into the field but my not actually hunt just yet, Likely invite a friend to shoot while I handle the pup.
Thankful for any advice, suggestions, comments.
Happy hunting fellas.

 

[FlushingSetters1724]

The training really starts today, basic commands and recall might be the most important things to have dialed in before you head out.. You absolutely should get him out in the field as early (if properly introduced to gunfire beforehand) and as often as possible IMO. I had both of my dogs out well before a year. If your dog is from good bloodlines they will shock you with how naturally they take to hunting. Seeing my 7 month old setter slam on point on a SD rooster with no real "training" is still one of the coolest things I've seen. Now if only I could get him to bring the damn things back.. But that's what the offseason is for I guess.

 

[4shot]

Oh yeah, create an atmosphere where the dog loves being around you. I like to do alot of mock hunting. Every thing you’d do on game day mimic. Teaching to load up, walk in a field walk back to the truck water up and relax for a few minutes letting him know the hunts over. Obedience is key, if he’s got it him it will show. Have fun and congrats!

 

[WingClipper]

Thanks, Plenty of fields to practice in around me. Obedience training starts Monday with my daughter and I.
He is from a champion blood line and I am hoping he is a natural like some of his earlier brothers. Season opener here in OR is September so I may just take him where the birds are to get his nose familiarized since we start formal training the same month.
Super excited to get out there and watch him work! Thanks for the tips, I do appreciate it.

 

[MNMEAD]

Adorable dog! As someone who brought home my second GSP last April, I agree with others. Get them in the field as soon as basic commands are on lock. Our first hunt was at 7 months, and the last for this season was at 10 months. So much changed throughout the year, and I am so so thankful I stuck with the drama and frustration of a puppy in the field. It went from a little bit of dread letting her out of the truck to pure joy watching her work.

To clarify (if you intend to read the rest of this...) I am NOT even remotely a professional trainer. I am a dude with a full time job, who drives 2hrs away from the house every single weekend to hunt. I have not trained as much, or as thoroughly as I should have, and I am paying for it on the back end. I also am probably a little looser in my requirements for my hunting dogs than other hardcore guys. Dogs get to have fun in the field too, not just work for me.

Here are the issues I had with my second GSP pup:
- Biting anything and everything. What a pain. Not specific to the breed, but I feel generally that pointers are more stubborn and headstrong.
- Kennel training was very tough. Took until about 8 months of age before she grew out of barking, yapping, whining, general grumbling in the kennel. Overnight noise was quick to go, but knowing we were out and about and interacting with her older GSP sister were too much for a long time. Consistency is key here along with anywhere else.
- Recall. Great in the yard, bad in the field. Striking change over 3 months of in field training.
- Recall in relation to non-game species. I had more than one occasion of bumping deer and her high tailing off. Which is tough when you bump 6-12 deer every day of hunting. Especially bucks around the rut. For some reason she liked that smell. Non-existent issue now.
- Wide working range. This shortened with time and learning how to hunt birds. I personally feel shorter ranges can be encouraged, not trained. I found that following her wherever she wanted to go worked really well to keep me close, and eventually I worked up to directing her where I wanted her to travel. She runs where she wants, until we hit a point where I don't want to go that direction. (Around cedars on this side vs that one, around these cattails, etc.)
- They have a MOTOR. My average day this year was about 9 miles. Usually 1.5-2 miles per walk. She has no quit, and will injure herself long before she stops. I think this can be said for all dogs, but my opinion is that it is stronger with lean and mean pointers than it is with something like a lab. Maybe I am wrong there, just my opinion.
- The motor isn't only present when you are hunting... The first couple of weeks are easy because you expect to dedicate every waking hour to the dog. 6 months in and you want to have a cocktail and watch your favorite episode of The Bachelor, it gets a bit annoying. Our dogs run on leash about 15-20 miles a week plus 2 days of hunting when in season. It still isn't enough, and the drama that envelops a GSP gets very tough when you aren't in the proper mental headspace to deal with it and give them the stimulation they need.
- 2/1 marks month 11, and she is still very much a puppy. But sometime this fall, amidst the tiring field hours and truck time, she truly became a working dog, moving with purpose. What an amazing thing that was to see progress.

All that being said, I can't imagine ever having a hunting and life buddy other than a shorthair.
Get ready for Hell.

 

[remy3424]

If you hunt pheasants, you will love the GSP. What are you expecting the training to do? Teach the dog bacis manners and assimilate to gunfire and then get him bird contacts. Retrieving is often not their strength, but some do a great job on that. You bought a GSP, chances are it will hunt like a machine! If it doesn't, well, maybe see a trainer then. Did the reputable breeder encourage the training?

 

[LittleBigHorn22]

I agree with the others, after 7 months is easily capable of hunting. Just introduce gun fire correctly by doing some bird work while someone else shoots a distance away and then work in closer if they dog doesn't react bad to it. Typically fine, but worst thing you could do is make a hunting dog gun shy, so why risk it. For the first season, keep expectations very low and focus on fun. Puppies will bump birds as they figure it out so don't get bummed out. Do some small obedience stuff while hunting, but don't make it a hard training season and let them have fun running.

One of my tips to avoid at home. Don't use exercise as the primary way to tire out a pup. You end up with an extremely in shape pup who then still doesn't settle down when you want. Walks where they can smell everything is better than a run where they just get muscle sore.

 

[MNMEAD]

I agree with the others, after 7 months is easily capable of hunting. Just introduce gun fire correctly by doing some bird work while someone else shoots a distance away and then work in closer if they dog doesn't react bad to it. Typically fine, but worst thing you could do is make a hunting dog gun shy, so why risk it. For the first season, keep expectations very low and focus on fun. Puppies will bump birds as they figure it out so don't get bummed out. Do some small obedience stuff while hunting, but don't make it a hard training season and let them have fun running.

One of my tips to avoid at home. Don't use exercise as the primary way to tire out a pup. You end up with an extremely in shape pup who then still doesn't settle down when you want. Walks where they can smell everything is better than a run where they just get muscle sore.

Excellent advise and something I passed over. Teaching them to get the mental stimulation from non-physical activities is huge too. Ours loves benebone chews, and wood chews, (plus the occasional beef cheek) and we also feed her with puzzle toys so it takes about a half hour for her to eat. We started taking the toys away at about 8pm and only giving chew toys after that which helps with wind down time before bed, and trains them that evenings are for quiet. 10 minutes of simple sit, woah, lay down, and paw training (with treats of course) can work wonders when you feel like they are about to tear your house to shreds. Still have to do that to this day at nearly a year old.

 

[WingClipper]

If you hunt pheasants, you will love the GSP. What are you expecting the training to do? Teach the dog bacis manners and assimilate to gunfire and then get him bird contacts. Retrieving is often not their strength, but some do a great job on that. You bought a GSP, chances are it will hunt like a machine! If it doesn't, well, maybe see a trainer then. Did the reputable breeder encourage the training?

Training was not recommended but i feel it is more for myself then the dog. You tube can only teach you so much. I learn a lot more by trial and error then watching.

 

[WingClipper]

Excellent advise and something I passed over. Teaching them to get the mental stimulation from non-physical activities is huge too. Ours loves benebone chews, and wood chews, (plus the occasional beef cheek) and we also feed her with puzzle toys so it takes about a half hour for her to eat. We started taking the toys away at about 8pm and only giving chew toys after that which helps with wind down time before bed, and trains them that evenings are for quiet. 10 minutes of simple sit, woah, lay down, and paw training (with treats of course) can work wonders when you feel like they are about to tear your house to shreds. Still have to do that to this day at nearly a year old.

Agreed with the mental stimulation being key. Looking forward to getting out there and watching him work. We have had plenty for foster pups come through the hose so i am ready as possible for the chaos that is about to ensue.

 

[chemist]

Congrats on your dog.

I agree with the above sentiment that training starts today. It is a very young dog so you want to keep things fun and not apply excessive pressure but there is a lot that you can start doing right away to set yourself up for success.

It is very nice to have a dog that retrieves willingly. Start this from just about day one if you can. Really as soon as they are willing to chase an object. If you have a hallway in your house you have the setup you need. Close all doors in the hallway and block off one end. Sit at the exit of the hallway. Take the toy of choice and get the dog excited about it and throw it the 10 or 15 feet down the hallway. When your dog picks it up it will want to run with it and won't have a choice but to run past you. Gently coax the toy out of the dogs mouth and throw it down the hallway and repeat 3 or 4 times and then STOP. The idea is to stop when the dog is still really excited and before it gets bored. You can repeat this a few times a day but make sure you are stopping while the dog is still excited. Eventually it will click for the dog and it will start anticipating you throwing. Then it will eventually start voluntarily giving you the toy to throw. This will set you up well for having a dog that wants to retrieve.

Do not buy the dog toys with squeakers or that it can tear apart. Teaching a dog that it gets rewarded for tearing things apart is one of the ways you get a dog with a hard mouth.

Buy a GPS collar for the dog and use it this winter weather permitting. I know in Washington we are allowed to run dogs on wild birds until the end of March. Check your state but you are probably allowed to do something similar. Once the dog is safe with respect to Parvo start taking the dog out into the wilds to get it used to using its nose and exploring brush. You want to do this step while the dog is still young enough that it wants to follow you everywhere. Walk into the brush and make the dog follow you. When you first enter the brush the dog is going to stop and start whining. Keep walking into the brush and do not turn back to get the dog. Eventually the dog's survival instinct will kick in and it will follow you. You are trying to teach your dog a couple things here. The first is to be bold and not be afraid. The second is that the onus is on it to keep track and keep up with you, not the other way around.

Once your dog has a solid recall and is broke to gunfire it is ready to start taking hunting. Speaking of gunfire, of all training be the most cautious with this one. I have never had to fix it myself but I have heard many professional trainers say this is the hardest thing to fix.

When you start hunting the dog, do not do it with a large party. I know you want to show off your new dog, but let it get its feet under itself. Hunt just yourself, or maybe with a trusted friend that is an experienced hunter and has a large amount of self-restraint to the point they will pass up on shots to meet your training objectives.

 

[GetTothePoint]

Once you see the joy in a young dog being birdie and figuring things out, then slam a couple points for you, I'll bet good money you have him in a field this fall. Have fun!

 

[BritChaser]

handsome and smart looking pup. my top advice is to let pup become the dog he is, not what u wish it was. THAT PUP ALREADY HAS A PERSONALITY. See it? I see it in its face and in how it moves. You got a good one.

bond with your pup and it will do everything it is capable of to please you. such a cute pup. if you have feelings for it already, the bonding process has begun. i have feelings for your pup and i'm only looking at its photo! make you and pup part of the same pack that does about everything together.

what i like for quiet hunting is a dog who responds to hand signals. First you page the dog with vibration from the ecollar, then: 1. arm straight up: move toward me; 2. move in the direction my arm is pointing. you can teach your dog these signals by using them beginning now and everyday: indicating to move out/in the door, into the vehicle, into the crate, to the bed, to the food bowl, etc. the other field command is, of course, "whoa." it's easy to teach. if you walk the dog on a leash, give whoa command two or three times on a walk. you say whoa and stop. repeat. get to where you can walk around the dog with it staying still.

for successful training, keep it simple. talking to pup as if it's a human does not work. one word and one gesture commands do. don't over do it

go for walks in fields off leash. when pup starts going out front and exploring and hunting at about five or six months the time has come for some gun fire. as you and pup are walking afield touch off a round occasionally without stopping or reacting, as if an occasional loud noise is totally normal while afield. if the dog reacts, just keep walking in silence. this is also the time to start field hand signal work and whoa with a check lead. with the dog out front on the lead, walk to the right with your arm extended; and then left. the dog will follow. reinforce move toward me - arm up - with a modest treat like one piece of kibble.

be patient and don't bore the dog with excessive training. puppy time is fun time above all.

 

[Springer22]

Oh boy! Have fun. Remember it’s just a dog. Try not to worry about doing everything right and expecting to much. I think I was so worried about doing everything right I ended up doing everything wrong. Lots of great advice on here and the internet but don’t get to wrapped up in it. I did and it just complicated stuff. Just try to relax and SOCALIZE, SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE. That’s my biggest regret, I tried but the weather at the time was brutal all winter and everything was just so forced. Just try and relax and get some basics down. Definitely let the dog explore cover ( mine dragged around a checkcord) but the bird dog stuff will come before you know it. Have fun man.

 

[GetTothePoint]

Oh boy! Have fun. Remember it’s just a dog. Try not to worry about doing everything right and expecting to much. I think I was so worried about doing everything right I ended up doing everything wrong. Lots of great advice on here and the internet but don’t get to wrapped up in it. I did and it just complicated stuff. Just try to relax and SOCALIZE, SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE. That’s my biggest regret, I tried but the weather at the time was brutal all winter and everything was just so forced. Just try and relax and get some basics down. Definitely let the dog explore cover ( mine dragged around a checkcord) but the bird dog stuff will come before you know it. Have fun man.

100% on the socialize. The best dog I ever had hands down was also the biggest asshole hands down and didn't get along with other males. It makes it very hard to ever hunt with other people with a dog like that.

 

[Zew]

Ferrel Miller on Common Sense Bird Dog Training

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Best 12.95 you'll ever spend. Nobody has ever or probably will ever accomplish what Mr. Ferrel Miller has. You're not "training" your dog to do something he isnt bred to do. You're developing him to bring the best out of his natural ability.

Two things two never forget when starting a puppy. 1- Let your puppy be a puppy. 2- He has to want to go with you.
The first one is self explanatory. The second is as simple as calling him as you walk around the yard. Sing his name, keep his attention, change directions and get him to go with you.

 

[WingClipper]

Thanks Everyone.
I have had plenty of dogs in the past and am confident we will get to his level at his own pace i am in no rush, as i want to do things right. Plenty of love headed his way from the kids and wife and we have quite a few dogs on our street to socialize him with. After reading your suggestions it looks like i will be in the field as soon as he is ready.

The biggest thing i am going to be careful of is getting him accustomed to gunfire.

I am planning on getting the GPS collar seems like a MUST with having an upland dog and not just for finding them if they are lost.
I have fed my brain more you tube information on this subject then anyone should.

Thanks again for all the helpful info and I'll be posting more photos once he is home and settled.

 

[chemist]

I am planning on getting the GPS collar seems like a MUST with having an upland dog and not just for finding them if they are lost.

Some of the oldschool folks say that they prefer to watch the dog hunt than to watch electronics and don't put them on their dogs. That is valid and for them no GPS is the best option. I also think it depends a lot on the style you hunt. I have been around some folks that prefer to hunt pretty open ground and don't let their dogs (including pointing breeds) get more than 20 yards from them so that they will have a higher likely hood of shooting wild flushes. I am not sure that they need the GPS. I am glad those folks enjoy their hunting but it is not my style. I prefer to let my dog run as long as they are checking back in with me. If your dog goes on point in thick stuff, sometimes it does not help a lot to know you saw your dog 30 seconds ago off to your left 75 yards out. The dog could now be 50 yards in front of you without realizing and when you go to look for them 75 yards to the left you won't find them.

That is before the stress/panic sets in because you haven't found your dog for 15 minutes and you don't know if he is actually lost or just locked up on birds somewhere in a sea of chest high grass. Contemplating how you are going to tell the wife that the dog will probably be next to the hunting vest when you go back in the morning is not a fun mental exercise.

My personal opinion is that the GPS is money well spent and I don't hunt my dogs without them due to both the ability to know that they are on point faster, and the sense of security it gives me. Do I really need them when I am hunting short grass prairie that I can see a long ways off. Not really, but if I have it already I will use it. I also have trained my dogs to recall to the tone function and like to be able to track the number of miles they have run over the course of the season.

 

[GetTothePoint]

Some of the oldschool folks say that they prefer to watch the dog hunt than to watch electronics and don't put them on their dogs. That is valid and for them no GPS is the best option. I also think it depends a lot on the style you hunt. I have been around some folks that prefer to hunt pretty open ground and don't let their dogs (including pointing breeds) get more than 20 yards from them so that they will have a higher likely hood of shooting wild flushes. I am not sure that they need the GPS. I am glad those folks enjoy their hunting but it is not my style. I prefer to let my dog run as long as they are checking back in with me. If your dog goes on point in thick stuff, sometimes it does not help a lot to know you saw your dog 30 seconds ago off to your left 75 yards out. The dog could now be 50 yards in front of you without realizing and when you go to look for them 75 yards to the left you won't find them.

That is before the stress/panic sets in because you haven't found your dog for 15 minutes and you don't know if he is actually lost or just locked up on birds somewhere in a sea of chest high grass. Contemplating how you are going to tell the wife that the dog will probably be next to the hunting vest when you go back in the morning is not a fun mental exercise.

My personal opinion is that the GPS is money well spent and I don't hunt my dogs without them due to both the ability to know that they are on point faster, and the sense of security it gives me. Do I really need them when I am hunting short grass prairie that I can see a long ways off. Not really, but if I have it already I will use it. I also have trained my dogs to recall to the tone function and like to be able to track the number of miles they have run over the course of the season.

It is a sick feeling when you can't find one for a bit. When I was young we ran bells but now the thought of all that noise makes me cringe. I don't run GPS but I do have a locate beepers if I ever need it and won't ever buy a collar without one again. I see where a GPS would be handy sometimes but for me it doesn't out weigh the clunkyness of the handhelds and having to look at it all the time.

 

[chemist]

It is a sick feeling when you can't find one for a bit. When I was young we ran bells but now the thought of all that noise makes me cringe. I don't run GPS but I do have a locate beepers if I ever need it and won't ever buy a collar without one again. I see where a GPS would be handy sometimes but for me it doesn't out weigh the clunkyness of the handhelds and having to look at it all the time.

I agree that the GPS can be clunky and a bit of a pain. I eventually broke down and bought a watch that connects to the GPS handheld by bluetooth. The GPS handheld is fixed to my chest so that it is not nearly as bothersome to have the bulk. Seeing where my dogs are is no more effort than checking the time on a watch. Going this route is not cheap, but nothing about this sport is and for the amount of time I spend in the field it is well worth the expenditure to me. I am however glad the beepers work for you and I am not suggesting you change a system that works well for you.