A few facts of raising pen raised birds

oldandnew

Active member
I think it would be a good idea to give a few guidelines to successfully keeping pen raised birds. I hope everyone will chime in, be as specific as you want to be, or as simple as my first axiom, Like all livestock, birds need and benefit from mineralized salt. My second axiom is you cannot raise bobwhite quail on the ground, includes flight pens. You may succede for a year or two, but the odds will get you, and you will suffer catastrophic loss. Quail need to be on wire, or virgin ground continously, ignore this at your own peril. Best way to acclimate and excercise quail is the johnny house, also the best training tool ever designed. If you don't have one, and you have the land, build one. Bobwhites released in the spring will eventually refuse to recall, pair off and try to raise a brood, it's part of the ingrained breakup of the covey bird. So if you spring release your birds you eventually will need to start over. Huns will use a johnny house as well as bobwhite quail, they too will disappear in the spring. I have heard that chuckars will as well but have not tried them. I have had pheasants recall on a limited basis. Everybody please add ideas that have worked for you or things we've learned the hard way, successes and failures alike, so we can all learn. This may be an increasingly important part of the sport.
 
DISINFECTANTS AND THEIR USE
Sanitation in itself is one of the most important factors that contribute to disease prevention. This
topic is a book in itself. To help the game bird breeder keep the disease causing organisms below the
level of the resistance of the host bird, we use disinfectants as a tool. The greatest mistake that can
be made is the dependance of these disinfectants to take the place of good sanitation.
There is no such thing as the perfect disinfectant as each one is produced to perform certain tasks.
Sadly, there is not one that will do everything the game bird breeder needs done through the wise use
of chemicals. There are some products on the market that have not been approved for poultry or
gamebirds. The breeder should be careful to use only agents that will not contaminate the primises and
thus get residue into the birds.
There are six major types of disinfectants, of which four can be combined into two classes. The
major classes of disinfectants are (Smith, 1985):
1. Halogens__
Two types of disinfectants (iodines and chlorines) are grouped because of similar
characteristics. Advantages include low cost, fast action, low toxicity, they may be
combined in cleaners, and are effective against fungus and molds. Disadvantages include
a reduced effectiveness in organic matter, are corrosive, and have little residual activity.
Halogens are most suited for disinfecting small instruments and equipment, water lines,
and using in foot baths.
2. Phenolic and Cresylic Acids__
These two types of compounds are grouped together because they are commonly
combined in commercial products. Their advantages are that they have a good residual
activity and very good effectiveness in presence of organic matter (manure). Some
disadvantages are that they are moderately expensive and have a strong, long lasting odor
that may not be desirable in all situations. These disinfectants are best suited for using as
a general house disinfectant, and using in the hatchery.
3. Quaternary Ammonias__
There are probably more products containing this type of disinfectant than any other class.
This is because "quats" are non-irritating, non-corrosive, have low toxicity, are low in cost.
The disadvantages, however, are that they cannot be mixed with many cleaners,
effectiveness is reduced by organic matter, and residual activity can be reduced by
contamination. They are best suited for hatcheries and equipment, feeders, waterers, and
general house equipment.
4. Aldehydes__
Formaldehyde and glutaraldehydes are usually considered as fumigation-type
disinfectants. They are low in cost, non-corrosive, moderately effective in organic matter,
and are effective against fungus and mold. Disadvantages are that they can be very toxic
to use and have little residual activity. The ideal use is in fumigating hatchery equipment.
APPROVED DISINFECTANTS
Not all disinfectants are approved for use by the USDA. The game bird breeder should be aware
of the approved disinfectants and be sure he follows the directions on the label.
The following disinfectants have been approved:
TEK-TROL
Bio-Tek Industries, Inc.
1212 Menlow Dr. NW
Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 351-7048
BACTO-PHENE
Oxford Chemicals, Inc.
P.O. Box 80202
Atlanta, GA 30366
(404) 452-1100
* ONE STROKE ENVIRON
Vestal Labs
New Jersey
(201) 351-0251
LIFEX - 1
Whiz Chemical
Bala Cynwyd, PA
(215) 825-555
We have not had any experience with any of the above disinfectants except One Stroke
Environ*. We heard about it through the Lab at Oregon State University. Our local feed store was
gracious enough to special order us a gallon. It was expensive, but it lasted for about two years which
cut the cost down considerably. The thing that we like about it is the killing power on virus which is
very important these days. The gallon bottle also has a handy pump which puts out just the right
amount to dilute. It does not have an objectionable odor either.
The game bird breeder should be careful when he uses any chemical. Some of the disinfectants
are poisonous to certain species. Read the label and always follow the manufacturers instructions.
Some of the common drinking water sanitizers are very poisonous to waterfowl but quite effective
when used with other game bird species. When using chemicals we wear rubber gloves as some of
them cause skin problems which may be in the form of a rash or swelling. Watch for individual
allergies that may cause reactions to chemicals.


this was taken from a PDF file i was sent years ago when we stared raising birds.

oldandnew,
i beg to differ on raising bobs on the ground we have been doing it with out issue for 12 years now. now we are small only raising 2-3000 a year. we also run 1-2000 chucker in with our bobs in two 75x150 pens tilled every 2 years with heavy ground cover
 
Jester, may be different in Oregon, but here, Missouri and Kansas, and points south, you will lose them. Never had a problem with chuckars, huns, or pheasants, and I don't medicate, unless absolutely necessary. If you medicate the water as a standard practice, you can avoid this and raise them on the ground. Either your lucky or there is some reason your area is exempt.
 
I'm south of Kansas city Ks. we do medicate twice once when we move them from the brooding table to the brooding pen and then again when moved to the flight pens. its done for a few days to help with the stress of the move
 
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I'd suspect your hygene standards are extremely high as suggested by your original post, and I'm sure this is a factor as well. My hats off to you, but for a hobbiest keeper, I would still use wire.
 
I live in the Pacific NW, and I too, raise my chukar on the ground. I live in an area with rocky ground that drains really well, and I suspect that helps. Of course I also practise sound bio-security, and test my flock annually.
 
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