only a pointer
Banned
When using a 20 guage auto 26 inch barrel do you guys like the mod or improved mod in a extended choke ? For pheasnt hunting its my girlfriends gun
20guage mod or imp mod?
- Thread starter only a pointer
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SetterNut
New member
Are you going to be hunting over pointing dogs?
When I am hunting with pointing dogs I generally am shooting IC or maybe Mod at the tightest.
BrownDogsCan2
Well-known member
...............or light mod.
I would use the light modified in an extended choke. The extended chokes tend to hold the shot a little tighter and have produced more consistent patterns. I arrived at that opinion since I have compared the patterns produced by flush tubes and the and extended tubes in 12 and 20 gauge guns. Those comparisons were with 6 and 7 1/2 shot.
only a pointer
Banned
i had a mod flush one in and seems like couldnt hit nothing with it i called carlsons chokes and the guy suggested the entended imp mod and he said more consistent and he hit more pidgeons with it? but im not for sure just curious
Extended tubes are convenient with choke changes; a longer forcing cone can at times help with patterns, especially running heavyish loads for the gauge, but mostly, they are marketing gold.
Many folks believe very easily that spending money returns a profit and many look for any edge they can find with a target.
So, those tubes are popular with clayshooters and that often mental game.....basically, use extended tubes for hunting if they make you feel better and money is not a factor.
I've patterned too much to fret over something as unimportant as a thousandth here or there or a longer forcing cone or parallel flats section.
Any difference is rarely of any practical value in the field....imho.
Royal Flush
New member
There are a few reasons somebody might want an extended choke:
- Readily available in non-traditional constrictions (LM, IM, for example)
- Patterns may improve in some guns.
- Extended tubes should provide increased muzzle protection from accidental contacts.
- Steel shot compatible at tighter constrictions than many standard factory tubes.
- Simple to identify, switch, or tighten chokes tubes without tools.
Toad
Active member
Is this her first season?
One thing I have noticed with newbies is that even if they have shotgun experience on clays, they take a lot longer to mount the gun, get the safety off, identify/acquire the target, and take the shot when they are hunting live game.
So possibly the choke that is ideal for an experienced hunter might be a little too open for a newbie. Although an experienced hunter may feel like pheasants are slow and we have all the time in the world to make a shot, sometimes the birds are getting out there a ways before all the pieces come together for a greenhorn.
Just an observation I have made from a couple guys I took under my wing, as well as memories of my first few hunts. I don't know how fast your girlfriend is, but that's just some food for thought anyway... Good luck to the both of you.
One thing I have noticed with newbies is that even if they have shotgun experience on clays, they take a lot longer to mount the gun, get the safety off, identify/acquire the target, and take the shot when they are hunting live game.
So possibly the choke that is ideal for an experienced hunter might be a little too open for a newbie. Although an experienced hunter may feel like pheasants are slow and we have all the time in the world to make a shot, sometimes the birds are getting out there a ways before all the pieces come together for a greenhorn.
Just an observation I have made from a couple guys I took under my wing, as well as memories of my first few hunts. I don't know how fast your girlfriend is, but that's just some food for thought anyway... Good luck to the both of you.
Yes, I implied a couple of those.
The steel shot note is a good one if all else is acceptable.
The muzzle damage is largely imagined but looks good in an ad.
Non-traditional constrictions are seldom what they are choked up to be(pun intended) but, as shooters we all like to fiddle with our scatterguns and bore diameters do vary.
I have been the tube route, patterned extensively and understand the positives that can result from an extended tube...per the OP tho and hunting, I see little merit than perhaps looking more like a professional shooter to those nearby.
Again, use them if they make you feel good...confidence is vital in shooting.
wolfcreeknc
Member
I have hunted pheasant and quail with 20 gauges for 10+ years. As a note this is in Kansas so it is always lead shot. If I am using a single barrel (auto) then it is modified choke with #5 first round and #6 in the following ones; this gun also allows 3" shells. If we are in a quail type area I will slip a #71/2 for the first round and keep the #6's as follow ups (never know what jumps up).
When using my o/u it is mod on the under and full on the over; this gun is 2 3/4" shells. Again #5 to hit them hard on the first shot and #6 to follow and break wings and legs
Of course everyone has different conditions like shooting over a dog, type of cover, blocking or walking, what to expect on a flush like quail or pheasant etc.
No matter what you are shooting, mark the bird well with the others in the group. We always bring either some type of flagging tape or just tissue paper; when you get to where everyone agrees where the bird drops mark it quickly on a stalk or piece of grass and then commence the search. It is very easy to loose the reference point once you start searching.
When using my o/u it is mod on the under and full on the over; this gun is 2 3/4" shells. Again #5 to hit them hard on the first shot and #6 to follow and break wings and legs
Of course everyone has different conditions like shooting over a dog, type of cover, blocking or walking, what to expect on a flush like quail or pheasant etc.
No matter what you are shooting, mark the bird well with the others in the group. We always bring either some type of flagging tape or just tissue paper; when you get to where everyone agrees where the bird drops mark it quickly on a stalk or piece of grass and then commence the search. It is very easy to loose the reference point once you start searching.
Royal Flush
New member
Given your two options, the Modified should work nicely through much of the season. Changing to an Improved Mod might be beneficial later on as birds get more skittish and distances increase.
I'd say it's more important for her gun to fit her well. Hopefully, her gun fits her well and hits where she points it A quick trip to the range and 15 minutes spent at a patterning board would give you some valuable info on gun fit and choosing a favorite choke/load combo. Shoot a few loads at a distance that would simulate her longer shots at pheasants. Pick a choke and load of #5 or #6's that's centered up without any big holes in the pattern at that chosen distance. A little bit of practice shooting clays never hurts.
Do that and she'll knock down as many birds as the boys do.
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BrownDogsCan2
Well-known member
Check her eye dominance also. Ex. my wife is right handed but shoots lefty....more common in women. When she first started shooting, she went from scratching a few to 9 out of 10. Just by switching to her dominant eye.
only a pointer
Banned
toad its her second season she killed one last year blocking she is a little slow but she can get it done just when we were shooting clays the other day she went 0fer bout 15 i couldnt beleive it our first trip she was smoking them heck its in my head now lol thanks for all the responses they were helpful and made sense