Hunting Around Conibear Traps and Snares

BRITTMAN

BRITTMAN

Well-known member
Excellent video and advise:

http://minnesota.cbslocal.com/2012/11/27/hunting-dog-owners-watch-how-to-release-body-grip-traps/

Buy a #220 and practice with both the big zip ties and the rope method. I can squeeze the smaller size by hand, but there is no way I could squeeze the #220 with one hand and reset the safety. The #220 is the one that is truly large enough get around most bird dog's head.

By practicing with the zip ties you can master opening the trap with some speed and also make sure the zip ties are long and strong enough. The zip tie method is great because you do not have to worry about the setting the safeties or having them slip back out of place.

The rope method shown in the DNR booklet and on some web sites is not an easy method to master. Odds are low that the rope method will work if the first time you use it is on a trapped dog.

In Your Vest
24" zip ties
rope
leash - can you instead of rope or leash dog in other situations that maybe dangerous to your dog
bolt cutters - the bolt cutter is for cutting snares if you cannot slip it off your dogs neck.

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Thanks for the heads up

On my way to menards for zip ties and bolt cutter right now. Already have 25 ft of rope in my vest. Ran into touchy situation with connibear in eastern SD public area. It was right on the trail leading into the area and my dog could have easily got caught. I was lucky to see it first and call her off and set off the trap. Great video could be life saver for dogs. I had no idea how to release those traps. Thanks a lot. Between frozen ponds and traps, you have to really be prepared. All the time you put into a dog can be gone instantly.
 
Maybe I'm naive, but what are these traps doing out there? Are they to catch coyotes? They certainly aren't going to catch any beavers out on the prairie. And if they are for coyotes, aren't there any regulations regarding where you trap and where you can hunt birds in order to keep the two out of each others' way? I'm usually the first one to say that we already have too many regulations, but if dogs are getting hurt, something's got to be done.
 
When my dad ran his trap line he set his connivers on land and in streams and creeks for coons. I would also say its helpful to know how to release a leg hold trap.
 
Choclab42 said:
When my dad ran his trap line he set his connivers on land and in streams and creeks for coons. I would also say its helpful to know how to release a leg hold trap.
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Totally agree !!!! But with a leg hold trap you have time. Heck you can even pull the trap and its stake out of the ground. With a leg hold you need to be careful that the dog does not bite you as you try to help them.

I had no problem opening #1.5 and #2 leg hold traps with my hands unassisted when my 1st Brittany would set them. Only dog of mine to get trapped. Guess he would not have been a good fox or coyote.
 
traps

the springs on leg hold trap are made so that they won't break the leg of the intended quarry. while i think any dog getting caught in a trap is a pretty unlucky dog, the info posted is helpful. as far as beaver being on the plains or prairie, that's where many of them always lived. currently i have a farmer friend trapping beaver along the republican river in kansas, prime pheasant and turkey country.
 
Excellent thing to learn. I lost my 3 year old golden in a conibear a few weeks ago on public hunting land. I've been sick ever since. The few minutes it took my brother in law and me to get her out was too long. The first minute she was thrashing and biting. What a waste... She was such a good dog to me and my family. There will be an empty spot for a long time.

Learn until you can do it blindfolded.
 
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