Traps

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plumrr

New member
Hello to everyone! My buddy' s dog ran into a trap yesterday, thankfully she's ok. Hopefully mine never does. Does anyone know how well are they supposed to be marked and have any of you ran into this problem?
 
They're supposed to be tagged with name and address, no signage required. The tags are generally copper, brass, or zinc about 1/2 inch by 2 inches. I wrap mine around the chain, sometimes they are attached with little copper wires. I had a dog leg snared once, not a problem.
 
There are different types of traps, the most common one is the dirt hole. If you know what you are looking for , you can find it. The most dangerous trap is a bucket trap. It is a body gripping trap placed usually in a square bucket laid sideways. Unfortunately, it is legal here in PA, but not that common. Last year Nov 21, 2009, this trap killed my beloved Britt, Maggie, while hunting grouse. This trap is designed to kill quickly by choking the animal.
 
To be prepared for the coni-bear, body gripping traps the Steve is talking about, you ought to learn how to set them. You can carry a 5-6 foot piece of tightly braided nylon rope with a loop in one end in your vest to help reset these traps. The important thing for you to know is how they work and how to get them open quickly. I can do it bare handed, others can't. With a dog struggling in the trap, it would be harder.
 
Troy is right, that is the recommended procedure. However. the trap that killed Maggie was a 220 conibear. I have since tried to practice to open just using my hands, but I just don't get it. I also tried using the woven rope, but every second is important and with a struggling dog, I don't know if I can do it in time. It was recommended to carry a small pair of bolt cutters. If you cut through the spring it is an instant release of the trap. I will happily pay for the trap. Even so, there is no guarantee if you get the trap off quick, that the dog will not suffer damage to the trachea, esophagus or the vascular system in the neck.
 
Stevegk said:
Troy is right, that is the recommended procedure. However. the trap that killed Maggie was a 220 conibear. I have since tried to practice to open just using my hands, but I just don't get it. I also tried using the woven rope, but every second is important and with a struggling dog, I don't know if I can do it in time. It was recommended to carry a small pair of bolt cutters. If you cut through the spring it is an instant release of the trap. I will happily pay for the trap. Even so, there is no guarantee if you get the trap off quick, that the dog will not suffer damage to the trachea, esophagus or the vascular system in the neck.
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Hate to hear that about your dog. I never did like 220s for coon, snares work better on land.If a dog was to get caught the dog would just sit and wait to be released . Mainly beagles because you set them low.:(
 
Many of the newer models have a cotter key release at the spring ring around the jaws. A leatherman would easily remove the cotter key allowing the release slide to swing away. The main thing is to get the pressure off quickly. Steve is right that the damage could already be done. However, many field tests on game have shown that you may have as much as 2.5 minutes.
 
Troy, that may be true about the time, but I think it depends on where the jaws of the trap strike the dog. I know Maggie was dead in under 90 seconds. I believe with the dog's anatomy that a more lateral (side to side) strike would be less damaging then one that struck them directly anterior (front). Nevertheless your expert opinion is appreciated. If something could be videoed regarding how to release the trap and placed on youtube it may prove quite invaluable to many dog owners.
 
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