Retriever Won't Retrieve

U

Uplandshooter

New member
Hey Guys

I have an eighteen month old Labrador Retriever that has a good nose and loves to chase, flush, mark and find down birds. The problem is that she doesn't retrieve the downed birds. I have placed pheasants in her mouth and had her carry them around and have had no problem. She fetches her training dummy with feathers attached without any problems. She will stand beside the downed bird and I will have to go get it. She has had 25 birds in front of her this season. Anybody out there had this problem? What did you do to solve it.
 
I have an 15 month old who won't retrieve birds I have shot. She runs over and rolls it with her paw then runs off. She will retrieve bumpers and bumpers with wings on them till i'm tired of throwing them. I am going to have her professionally force fetched. She is a slow goer in terms of maturatity. I think once she is force fetched the problem should be resolved.
 
I agree, have the dog force fetched. However, I have 4 labs and 1 of my labs 2 yrs old also has a great nose & finds downed birds others won't and he'll find it, and stand there & not fetch it up if it's in heavy cover and this dog is force fetched, but he's not the best pedigree either. Good luck.
 
The dog must be properly force fetched. Any dog that is thoroughly force fetched will never refuse to pick up a bird. It's what they were bred to do.
 
Sounds like the dog hasn't really made the connection. If you can get ahold of a dead, frozen gamebird (Pheasant or Chukar) or two there is a way to get the dog to WANT to fetch the bird. It takes teasing. Teasing will get the dog to WANT to retrieve that bird. Here's what you do - take the dog to an empty lot or a big field (local football field?). Throw a few dummies for the dog and then start teasing the dog with a dummy until it is almost frothing wanting that dummy. Throw the dummy and excitedly have him bring it to you. Do the teasing again with the dummy, but not for very long. Now throw the dead bird a short distance - maybe half the distance you were throwing the dummies. When the dog gets to the dead bird start calling him back real excited like. The dog SHOULD pick up the dead bird and bring it back to you. One more short toss and then toss another dummy. Toss just one more dead bird and if he fetches it put it all up until next time (always leave the dog wanting more). Next time you go out (very next day?) toss the dead bird a few times with no dummies. He should go get every one of them. Now it's time to take him for a training session with live birds - shoot a bird over him and he SHOULD go out and pick it up like he was bred to do. If he does that you won't need to force fetch him unless you hunt in difficult situations that would cause the dog to not want to retrieve in the first place (difficult obstacles, etc.).

PS - if you use frozen gamebirds let them thaw to almost unfrozen before using them (cold center). After use they can be re-frozen until needed again and then again thaw before using.
 
I couldn't get my lab to retrieve until she was two years old. I never forced fetched, but always used a lot of encouragement and praise similar to what MartyDavis has suggested. As you can see by the avator, not a problem anymore.

Don't give up hope.
 
I have a lab too, who naturally retrieved in the water, but once we started on upland she would run over, pick them up, and carry them a few feet in some random direction, then sniff them and roll them around in frantic excitement. I read all about force-fetching. I'm not sure how much you have to follow the letter of the law to officially call it force-fetch training, but I basically fixed this by INSISTING that she pick up and bring to me EVERYTHING and ANYTHING that I asked. This was as simple as a ball or bumper during play/exercise session, to random things in around the house. As suggested above, I got a frozen duck from a farm and tried it. No problem. SHe would bring it to me first time, every time. I was happy, then we went grouse hunting - same problem, she wouldn't bring the birds consistently (although if I brought her to heel, got her focussed, then sent her to fetch it she would do it, more or less). I decided that this might be because the gun got her SO EXCITED that she lost her focus, so I added a shotgun to my training with the frozen duck (which is harder to do, since I live in the city and have to go out to a training field to do this). She WAS more excited with the gun, but still brought it back without a problem.
The current status is that she still has some troubles, but she is improving with a combination of insistence on retrieving on command, and with LOTS of encouragement when she does. To be honest, I didn't see this as a big enough problem to bring myself to pinch her ear or do the toe-hitch etc... to correct it, although I'll admit to being a bit of a softy with her (she's a very mild-tempered lab). My theory is that it's the HOT bird that makes her lose her concentration. I think that the sensation of a freshly killed bird in her mouth is quite overwhelming, so she drops it, looks at it etc... instead of fetching it. I think that this will improve over time as she gains more experience with more birds. The only time she refuses now is in the field with a fresh bird, which I deal with as follows. I go to her (wher ethe bird is) straddle her (so that she can't back away) and then encourage her to "take", then "hold". If she doesn't take I have used the ear-pinch or just opened her mouth and put it in. If she drops it she get's a "wrong" and we start again. Once she's holding it I get her to walk at heel with it using "hold" to make sure she doesn't drop it. Then we do a short retrieve with it, then farther away, etc... It takes a bit of time away from the hunt, but it seems to be working. A local trainer has pidgeons that he puts in these little mesh "sleeves" and hides in the grass, and has offered to bring me along when he trains like this. I think this will also be a great tool to give her exposure to holding live birds and fetching them to me.
 
Retrieve Training

Try carrying some treats -- say little slices of hot dogs -- and give it one when she retrieves a dummy and then in the field after putting the bird in its mouth and it following you to the release point, giving it a treat. Praise is great but food is better.
 
Lab won't retrieve

This isn't that uncommon at that age. You need to partially wing clip birds and let your dog lose it's fear of said birds. try quail. Clip one wing of the flight wings the bird will get up about two three foot then come down. The dog will learn to chase and catch. Is there a specific type of bird your dog refuses to retrieve. In my opinion Labs almost never need force fetch if taught retrieving early. I train dogs and have a National Field trial champ. Beside if your dog reliably retrieves dummies, retrieve drive is not an issue it's bird introduction. How old was the pup before it was introduce to live birds? By the way don't panic this is a real easy one to fix PM me for some more tips if yo want.
 
martydavis said:
Sounds like the dog hasn't really made the connection. If you can get ahold of a dead, frozen gamebird (Pheasant or Chukar) or two there is a way to get the dog to WANT to fetch the bird. It takes teasing. Teasing will get the dog to WANT to retrieve that bird. Here's what you do - take the dog to an empty lot or a big field (local football field?). Throw a few dummies for the dog and then start teasing the dog with a dummy until it is almost frothing wanting that dummy. Throw the dummy and excitedly have him bring it to you. Do the teasing again with the dummy, but not for very long. Now throw the dead bird a short distance - maybe half the distance you were throwing the dummies. When the dog gets to the dead bird start calling him back real excited like. The dog SHOULD pick up the dead bird and bring it back to you. One more short toss and then toss another dummy. Toss just one more dead bird and if he fetches it put it all up until next time (always leave the dog wanting more). Next time you go out (very next day?) toss the dead bird a few times with no dummies. He should go get every one of them. Now it's time to take him for a training session with live birds - shoot a bird over him and he SHOULD go out and pick it up like he was bred to do. If he does that you won't need to force fetch him unless you hunt in difficult situations that would cause the dog to not want to retrieve in the first place (difficult obstacles, etc.).

PS - if you use frozen gamebirds let them thaw to almost unfrozen before using them (cold center). After use they can be re-frozen until needed again and then again thaw before using.
Click to expand...

Thats a good post. But, force fetch is much more than "forcing a retriever to retrieve". It also teaches them how to deal with pressure. But if you don't want to force fetch and just want a dog that will pick up your birds and bring them to you then the above is definately the way to go.
 
duckn66 said:
Thats a good post. But, force fetch is much more than "forcing a retriever to retrieve". It also teaches them how to deal with pressure. But if you don't want to force fetch and just want a dog that will pick up your birds and bring them to you then the above is definately the way to go.
Click to expand...

Both posts are dead on. (could only quote one). Depending on your expectations introduction to birds is probably all you need to work on. I would probably use a clipped wing pigeon to build drive if necessary, otherwise a frozen duck for intro as they hold their feathers a bit better. Than switch to pheasants. Plus this way you don't have to eat as many ducks.

I have a pup coming and I may skip traditional FF (I have nothing against FF) but I intend to use 'force to pile" as a way of teaching him how to deal with pressure as well as adding a little spark and style.
 
prowingshooter said:
This isn't that uncommon at that age. You need to partially wing clip birds and let your dog lose it's fear of said birds. try quail. Clip one wing of the flight wings the bird will get up about two three foot then come down. The dog will learn to chase and catch. Is there a specific type of bird your dog refuses to retrieve. In my opinion Labs almost never need force fetch if taught retrieving early. I train dogs and have a National Field trial champ. Beside if your dog reliably retrieves dummies, retrieve drive is not an issue it's bird introduction. How old was the pup before it was introduce to live birds? By the way don't panic this is a real easy one to fix PM me for some more tips if yo want.
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Are you saying that you have won a AKC " National field trial champ" and never did any condition retrieve or to a PILE , training on him?
 
wesslpointer said:
Are you saying that you have won a AKC " National field trial champ" and never did any condition retrieve or to a PILE , training on him?
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I hear ya wesslpointer......doesn't sound possible. I
 
Force Fetching

If you want a reliable retriever that will retrieve anytime, anywhere, force fetching is the only way to go. Fetch has to be a command, not just a game. I have a kennel and train dogs. I would never return a dog to any owner without force-fetching him/her. They become a retriever in this process. It is a must.
 
Agree if you want a precise presentation brought back each and everytime. As a pointer owner, I never saw the need; GSP's have a great willingness to please it's owner. I don't mind walking a few steps initially to meet the dog, praise will bring them in the last few feet. Now if I was going to compete in a trial....you bet I'd force fetch em for sure.
 
i have competed in a few trials and hunt tests such as BDC an NUCS and never once have I ever had to force fetch any of my dogs no matter the breed its all about introduction and their willingness to please and if you start them out retrieving to hand at a young age and never settling for less thaen their is no reason to force fetch
 
"FF isn't so much about retrieving as it is about teaching a dog how to confidently handle training pressure. If it's done skillfully, it can help a bold dog become more of a "team player", and a less confident dog is likely to become bolder."

This comment was from a Trainer on Gundogs.com I could have said it better myself. I believe in FF and always will, there are people out there that disagree with FF but I believe (don't take this wrong) they can't stomach the process of FF. It sucks yanking on a dogs ear listening to him yelp but to me it is a necessary process if you want a good retriever.
 
Mr Hyde said:
"FF isn't so much about retrieving as it is about teaching a dog how to confidently handle training pressure. If it's done skillfully, it can help a bold dog become more of a "team player", and a less confident dog is likely to become bolder."

This comment was from a Trainer on Gundogs.com I could have said it better myself. I believe in FF and always will, there are people out there that disagree with FF but I believe (don't take this wrong) they can't stomach the process of FF. It sucks yanking on a dogs ear listening to him yelp but to me it is a necessary process if you want a good retriever.
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Its called CONDITION RETRIVE and if your dog is yelping your doing it wrong. Think pressure and release witch is what ALL dog training is about.
 
wesslpointer said:
Its called CONDITION RETRIVE and if your dog is yelping your doing it wrong. Think pressure and release witch is what ALL dog training is about.
Click to expand...

WP I think you took it wrong way I was explainning why some of the field trainning people don't not like FF.
 
Not too uncommon in younger dogs that don't seem to have a strong desire for retrieving, although less likely in retrievers. I've witnessed some younger dogs who wouldn't pick them up or would only bring them back part of the way all of the sudden start retrieving everything back to hand as if you flipped a light switch one day. You could wait and see how things develop out, but force fetching would clean this up for sure.
 
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