Dog ranging Out to far

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MAcDonTom1

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Does anyone know of an e-collar system that you can set up to correct the dog if it ranges out too far? I have a Dratharr that wants to get too far out and flush birds, he'll case pheasant that run I'd like to find a collar that automatically corrects him if he gets out more than 40 yards
 
MAcDonTom1 said:
Does anyone know of an e-collar system that you can set up to correct the dog if it ranges out too far? I have a Dratharr that wants to get too far out and flush birds, he'll case pheasant that run I'd like to find a collar that automatically corrects him if he gets out more than 40 yards
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So....zaps him without you pushing a button? My personal opinion is that if you want your dog zapped, you should be in full control of it & take full responsibility for administering said zap. Interesting idea though. Breaks 40 yards (adjustable). Gets a zap. 5 minute delay (adjustable). Breaks 40 yds again. Gets another zap. Not aware of one that'll do that, but the technology is obviously available.
 
Don't think such a thing exists. PetSafe makes one for your yard, but you would need to wear it on a backpack w/ a 120VAC power source.

Might also want to consider if you really want to teach the dog it is OK to range at 40 yds, or that they should be punished for pursuing a winged bird that is landing beyond 40 yds.
 
Agree with Bob. What happens when he flushes one at 35 yards and gets zapped as he's sprinting to run down a cripple? That's not a stimulus I'd want him to feel when trying to run down a bird. I don't use e-collars with my golden, just a whistle to keep him tight when he starts ranging further, but I couldn't imagine hitting him with something negative when he's trying to run down a winged bird. I shoot I want him to get the best start he can on it especially if he has it marked. I'm sure the guys that hunt with e-collars will chime in and know better than me on this.
 
I would say you need one with a tone or vibration button on it. That way you can hit that instead of zapping them. They catch on pretty quick. But I do not agree with at all hitting the button everytime the dog gets past 40 yards. You will discourage him from hunting. The dog will slowly lose desire to hunt, and think that its job is to just stay close to the master no matter what, even if it smells a bird 10 yards beyond its limit. Does the dog not point? Arent they a pointing dog? I think the reinforcement of "whoa" and not creeping on point is what you are looking for here. If they point a bird too far out and flush it because they are to close to it, they will gradually learn to keep their distance. Or at that point you can hit the tone button to stop them. Assuming you teach them to stop with tone. Example: My little setter does flush pheasants sometimes because she gets too close and she's too far out for me to shoot. It gets up, she gives chase, I immediately hit the vibrate button to keep her from chasing it. Then when I get to her I release her again. Then usually the next time she holds from a distance where I can get the bird. Then she may go bump another one and I repeat the process. But having the dog shocked like you have a constant invisible fence around you in a 40 yard circle is asking quite a bit from an animal and I don't think it will be beneficial to your dog or you finding more birds.
 
PheasantWhisperer said:
I would say you need one with a tone or vibration button on it. That way you can hit that instead of zapping them. They catch on pretty quick. But I do not agree with at all hitting the button everytime the dog gets past 40 yards. You will discourage him from hunting. The dog will slowly lose desire to hunt, and think that its job is to just stay close to the master no matter what, even if it smells a bird 10 yards beyond its limit. Does the dog not point? Arent they a pointing dog? I think the reinforcement of "whoa" and not creeping on point is what you are looking for here. If they point a bird too far out and flush it because they are to close to it, they will gradually learn to keep their distance. Or at that point you can hit the tone button to stop them. Assuming you teach them to stop with tone. Example: My little setter does flush pheasants sometimes because she gets too close and she's too far out for me to shoot. It gets up, she gives chase, I immediately hit the vibrate button to keep her from chasing it. Then when I get to her I release her again. Then usually the next time she holds from a distance where I can get the bird. Then she may go bump another one and I repeat the process. But having the dog shocked like you have a constant invisible fence around you in a 40 yard circle is asking quite a bit from an animal and I don't think it will be beneficial to your dog or you finding more birds.
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excuse me, but it sounds like this dog needs more experience and wild bird contact.....chances are he will sort things out on his own, be patient, 40 yards is nothing for a DD.....i would want him to range out to 100-150 yards at least. he will soon learn to slow down and make/hold a point and not crowd his birds......my gwp (9 months old) is going through this now, i am going to let him figure it out on is own, 90% of good pointing dogs do this.....relax, let him learn, don't worry about shooting birds over him right now, let him develop.
 
MAcDonTom1 said:
Does anyone know of an e-collar system that you can set up to correct the dog if it ranges out too far? I have a Dratharr that wants to get too far out and flush birds, he'll case pheasant that run I'd like to find a collar that automatically corrects him if he gets out more than 40 yards
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Nothing like that exists. I will assume for the moment that this may be a younger dog???

Whoa trained? This is very important.

Using the tone button or beeper on your collar if you have one can be a great tool when you want to recall them, but they have to be trained for it. Mine are conditioned to come on multiple beeps.
Stimulating a dog hot on the trail of a bird can be very risky if the dog does NOT KNOW WHY it's being corrected. You do NOT want to project the wrong message to the dog.

MY 2 cents.
 
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birdshooter said:
Nothing like that exists. I will assume for the moment that this may be a younger dog???

Whoa trained? This is very important.

Using the tone button or beeper on your collar if you have one can be a great tool when you want to recall them, but they have to be trained for it. Mine are conditioned to come on multiple beeps.
Stimulating a dog hot on the trail of a bird can be very risky if the dog does NOT KNOW WHY it's being corrected. You do NOT want to project the wrong message to the dog.

MY 2 cents.
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What birdshooter said. Let the dog learn on his own, e collar is dangerous if USED AT THE WRONG TIME. Then you can end up with multlple problems.
 
My Britts tend to range close when birds are around and stretch out well past 40 yards when birds are thin.
 
For my lab i use a tone on collar if she is hunting i want her closer than 40 yards and it works great.After awhile she does it without tone.If i tone her and she does not obey and moves out to far i will tone her again if she does not listen then I will hit her with low charge.I never tone her
If she's on a bird. i just have to stay close or catch up with her.If she gets on a running Bird i will let her go.Maybe some guys don't agree with that
But for me i don't want to confuse her.I just give her a dirty look when she gets back.It does not happen that much
 
MAcDonTom1 said:
Does anyone know of an e-collar system that you can set up to correct the dog if it ranges out too far? I have a Dratharr that wants to get too far out and flush birds, he'll case pheasant that run I'd like to find a collar that automatically corrects him if he gets out more than 40 yards
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Maybe we could strap a collar on you and zap you so hard you do flip flops and mess your pants every time you miss a bird. Try teaching the dog simple obedience on lead first.
 
I am inferring from ye post that ye overall training experience is minimal. I would suggest that the major issue at hand is poor obedience training which equates to a lack of control. The further that dog gets out from you the less he perceives that he must comply with you. Obedience and control is first established on-lead much as has been suggested by westksbowhunter. I am doubtful that your dog has had thorough obedience training both on-lead and off - lead, and that it has then progressively been e-collar conditioned to well solidified and previously established and well known commands. E-collars do not train dogs - trainers train dogs. An e-collar in the right hands is a fantastic tool, in the wrong hands, an implement carried by a fool. There is a multitude of good reasons that the "auto stimulation" collar you have made inquiry about does not exist.

My suggestion would be to align yeself and ye dog with a competent trainer. JMHO.

Good luck,
THE DOG WHISTLER 🍀🇮🇪🇺🇸
 
I've never used an e collar, but my advise is, to let the dog learn naturally.Just hunt a lot.This will produce a great dog.
 
Lots of advice here on this board. I believe the Garmin's alpha allows you to set a geo-fence around a set boundry that warns you when your dog breaches the boundry. Innotek years ago had a collar that would trip a release trap within whatever set distance to assist with dogs getting too close to their birds. Neither is what you had asked about nor is there anything I'm aware of with auto correction when your dog exceeds a set distance. Not sure it's what you really want either for some of the reasones noted by others already.

Effective use of an e-collar, plenty of patience and even more repetion you can train your field companion to pattern within whatever range you want him to. Depending upon the type of sporting dog and it's genetic traits you will either be helping him develop a pattern that is more natural or training a completely new one. I find that a bigger running dog when young typically shortens up when they start to connect all the dots. It's one big reason of a few, why lots of good dogs don't make horseback and/or All Age strings. I suspect you have nothing to worry about that your dog has that type of range. Good luck and keep us up to date as to how he/she is coming along.
 
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My high-prey dog loves to hunt by himself and couldn't care less where I am. Constant buzzing and occasional jolt to keep him in range.

This goes on for the first hour or when he tires...he's 8 and not slowing down. Nephew's dog, female Lab, walks 10' in front of him and refuses to get into the slop/cattails. Never ranges - works too close to flush many birds.

Point here - big difference in dogs, drive and probably training.

When I send my dog on a "dead bird" retrieve, he knows there won't be and buzzing or jolt and he can range wherever, within reason. I've never corrected him on a retrieve, but often when too far out.

Maybe when he's 10 things will change...I doubt it!
 
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That's pretty good.

Too many try to use a collar to mask their own laziness working with their dog. I have a fairly aggressive Lab that has slowed down a bit. He would chase a pheasant to the next county if I allowed it. Stopping him from running has not curbed his drive, it has taught him if he stays close he may end up with one in his mouth. Early on through working in non hunting situations I taught him to stay within shooting range. He now does it without correction. Literally I have shocked this dog 8-10 times in the 8 years I have had him. The collar should be a last resort not a first choice.
 
This is a crazy idea a drat is a pointing dog and should reach out well over 40 yards all the time.

He should locate birds and point them until you arrive and YOU walk in front of him and flush the bird

You really need to get with a good trainer of pointing breeds and get some solid advice and learn what they do how they hunt.

What you are planning will ruin the dog

FWIW I’ve been training pointing dogs since the mid 1960s I’m not trying to mock you. You just don’t understand how your dog is bred to hunt.

Get a mentor no inexperienced guy should touch an ecollar

Pointers of all breed should normally range out atleast several hundred yards in a prairie type terrain mine will often be much farther out than that if the terrain justifies it.

Inside forty yards is flushing dog range and you have to train the dog to hup ( which means sit and wait until being released ) at the toot of a whistle so you can catch up and allow him to continue to follow the bird he’s working

You wouldn’t do this with a drat or any pointing breed
 
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I use a Sportdog 425 on my dog. I rarely use the stimulate option. i use one beep at the range limit and she almost always looks back at me and "checks in". If she goes beyond her range limit and appears to hunt for herself, I use a rapid succession of tone as a reminder that she is getting into the danger zone. This almost always gets her to work back towards me. If she blows me off like shes giving me the finger at this point I stimulate her on the lightest setting possible, which I very rarely have to do anymore. This one, two, three approach is drilled in her head so hard that I hunt in silence with her. I never call her name, yell, or make a vocal sound to her while I'm hunting. I never stimulate her if I think she's on point if I cant see her,and never stimulate her to the point she yelps. This method works well for me, but it helps that she is a lot smarter than her owner.
 
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